cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I've noticed if the back end is already "set" entering the turn, it is more likely to stay stuck mid- and exit. If you go into a turn already loose, it typically stays loose.

So yes, you can get a "2 for 1". It'll look like the rear of the car follows the front very smoothly.

smokefan

iTrader: (12)

Anyone want to buy some nitro springs cheap lol

rdlkgliders

iTrader: (21)

I had another good race day with the s411, ran 2nd in both heats and the main. I am getting consistent with the car. I played with springs and shock positioning and settled on white rear gray front after trying gray front and rear.

Martin Crisp

I think your idea of going to a gray rear spring is a good start, The 1.4 rear bar should also help. You could add some anti-dive in the front, which will make the turn-in more abrupt, but will also make the car push more in the middle of the corner. You may want to also try adding 0.5mm to 1mm more spacers on the inboard upper link on the front. This will allow the front to dig a little harder on turn-in, but will also cause the car to push a little more in the middle of the corner. If your chassis is rubbing on the driving surface near the front of the car, then you are loosing some steering as the chassis hitting the ground will take away grip. If this is the case you can go up on the spring rate all around by 1 step until your chassis no longer rubs. On very high grip carpet tracks however you can go too far and cause the car to traction roll. You could also add some front toe-out to get a more abrupt turn-in...but like some of the other adjustments above, you will loose mid corner steering. For all of the adjustments that can cause more mid corner push, you can compensate by adding 0.5mm shim to v2 steering rack to reduce ackerman.

Just some thoughts. Cheers.

Decreasing the front toe out from 1 to 0.5 degrees will make the car have less initial turn in but will make the car push mid corner. So it may feel like you have more steering becaue the car reacts more quickly to initial steering input, but you are loosing steering mid corner. You could compensate for this by adding another 0.5mm spacer to the v2 steering rack to reduce the ackerman (dynamic toe-out) so you don't loose the mid corner steering as well.

snoopyrc

iTrader: (2)

Martin since I see your input in the S411 thread often and since I have your xxxmain book and the iphone app, I was just wondering, is this your kit of choice?

Sorry if you have answered this already.

Warren Maker

Hey Guys just thought I would give you the heads up that Ryan TQ and Win at the Victorian Titles last weekend with the S411 T/E. Link to the last final is here on utube www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWXzDa-TfSA

We only got the car a few days before the event and had almost no time for dialling. Amazingly the car was great in practice setting the fastest lap time. This gave Ryan a great sense of confidence.

As it turned out it was to be a false one. As the car was so good he didn't change any thing... OOPS.

Come the qualifiers next day everyone else went faster and Ryan went slower! by about .2. Racing was so close that we were to scared to change to much being so unfamiliar with the car. I wasn't there so we were in constant contact by phone.

So my advice was "The fastest car doesn't always win" Just drive your lines. In the end this was just good enough to take out TQ and win... JUST

I or Ryan will post the set-up in the next day or so; but basically it was Marc's German Nationals with just a few changes. Rear Wheel base lengthened 2mm. Front wheelbase short 1mm. 1mm Ackermann spacer and HPI Silver Springs.

If u look at the Video you will see Ryan's car struggles through the R/H sweeper and then the braking into the tight left hander that follows. Also the car seemed to be lacking a little corner speed. In hindsight I think as the griip came up Ryan's car over gripped and went slower. Ryan leads this race except for the second last lap where he rolls it on the left hand back corner. Any suggestions from the Gurus would be appreciated

Thanks to Serpent and Walther's Hobby for a great car that we just know can be even faster yet.

Kevin E.

Thankx guys !

Yesteday i ended up with complete other setup and the car was driving more easy , but there are some other things to try with the springs to make the car faster.

I used the base of the setup from Micheal (thankx).Exualy this setup was for me a car that felt mutch looser , but faster then before.
Less camber , 1.4 antirollbar instead of 1.2.
Higher rollcenters.

The biggest different is that i ended with 2.0 bracket in the rear.
I made my rollcenter higher by shimming out the upperarms in the rear and in the front , by 1mm.

The problem with the really loose rear end in off trottle mid corner was solved after i replaced the front rear bracket back to 1.0 instead of the 2.0.

But still struggling with my gearing , i dont know if this gearing 16-84 for a 3.5t LRP motor is the limit.
What do u guys recommand ?

grtz and offcourse big thankx allready

Btw this is my home track Model Race Genk (Belgium)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRvps...eature=related

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

After having a great practice before the meet and the car having a full freshen up prior to I had my first bit of bad luck with this car on the weekend. A lapped car got spun by the guy i was chasing and i ploughed head on into him at full noise. The right front of my car and a body are throw away. Gives me an excuse to get some alloy drive shafts for the rear now as i have a spare axle Also up for a few of the extra toe blocks and sway bars as I bent my only 1.5 block and 1.6 bar which i didn't find till tear down today Tried to drive the last 2 finals with a tweaked car but gave up after about a minute.

Mike Schroder

iTrader: (10)

Hi Warren,

Please send my congrats to Ryan it will be great having someone with so much local experience to help with the car. Again congrats.

Cheers,
Michael

Mike Schroder

iTrader: (10)

Hi Kevin,

That is awesome to hear i am glad i could help out some way. Not sure on the gearing as i run stock 17.5.

Cheers,
Michael

azz187

iTrader: (1)

Congratulations to Ryan, looks like the Serpent will be the most popular Tc in victoria now!!

Martin Crisp

Hi

Yeah...I drove for Tamiya for about 10 years, and then TOP sponsored me for about a year (thanks to EJ). I then decided to go independent for about a year where I drove the XRAY. Then an opportunity came up to drive for Serpent about 6 months ago. I love my Serpent cars. Don't get me wrong, the Tamiya's, Tops and XRAYS are all good cars, but I am really loving my serpent. Initially when I switched from my XRAY to serpent, I wondered if I had made a mistake as my serpent was not feeling very consistent at the snowbirds race as I would have liked - i.e. it wondered. But I figured some things out about the Serpent since then that have removed any second guessing from my mind. It was two simple things I changed on the car. The first was to use the hard arms, and the second was to use servo tape under the servo in addition to the normal method of connecting the servo to the chassis. These two things got rid of the inconsistent feeling. The car has proven to be very strong as wel, which given it's relatively low cost kit and parts...I think this is an excellent combination. Most importantly however I really like the fact that Serpent continues to ask it's drivers for feedback and then make product adjustments accordingly. They have taken driver feedback and provided good improvements quickly.

Martin Crisp

Nice driving....very jealous you get to run on a track like that...we have nothing like that in Canada.

celt

iTrader: (5)

Paging through the manual and trying hard to find something I don't like about this kit.

It's exceedingly difficult. Didn't like the V1 steering rack that couldn't adjust ackerman...fixed!!

When is the "TE" available in the states?

Shouts to Serpent, really looking nice.

samhun

Hey guys, I just bought a pair of new serpent 0 degree alu upright. After installed it, it gave me a 4degree on left and 2degree on right. I tot the Alu upright should have a better precision than the plastic type cause it is made by cnc. When I put back the plastic upright and it all goes fine with 3degree each side. So I took a very close look on the alu upright and notice the both pin hole are not precise. Anyone here tried the new alu upright yet? The factory defects really turn big my head