16LikesSerpent S411
12-08-2011, 01:01 PM
#1996
So how did the testing go??
I have been running my car at our club track (small and very tight) and have had excessive front wheel chatter using a spool. I replaced the spool with a 500k gear diff and this helped quite a bit, about .15 seconds better lap times, but the gear diff just didn't give me the same feel as running a spool. I have been waiting for some ECS for the car for a while now, but they seem hard to get in NA.
So out of desperation I built my own. I had a pair of ECS for a 416, which supplied me with everything but proper fitting axles. For that I mated the axles from the Xray ECS to the 416 dog bones. The steering blocks are still a issue so I changed out the Serpent ones for the Xray Med ones. You will require a 1.5mm shim to make up the difference between the Serpent versus Xray hubs, but if you shim at the top and not the bottom the axle height is almost the same as stock. The C-hub requires a little grinding for clearance, but that has to be done with the factory ones as well, just check lock to lock to see where you have to open it up. I use blue locktite for the setscrews and just snug them, then shrink wrap them. I like to run a little lube in them, I use a product called HHS2000 by Wurth, its a lite grease that sprays on and then sets up, but it really works its way into any small gaps.
The final outcome is no more chatter, a smoother car and faster more consistent laps.
Is it worth it? Probably not if you can wait or get the factory ones, but I couldn't.
I have been running my car at our club track (small and very tight) and have had excessive front wheel chatter using a spool. I replaced the spool with a 500k gear diff and this helped quite a bit, about .15 seconds better lap times, but the gear diff just didn't give me the same feel as running a spool. I have been waiting for some ECS for the car for a while now, but they seem hard to get in NA.
So out of desperation I built my own. I had a pair of ECS for a 416, which supplied me with everything but proper fitting axles. For that I mated the axles from the Xray ECS to the 416 dog bones. The steering blocks are still a issue so I changed out the Serpent ones for the Xray Med ones. You will require a 1.5mm shim to make up the difference between the Serpent versus Xray hubs, but if you shim at the top and not the bottom the axle height is almost the same as stock. The C-hub requires a little grinding for clearance, but that has to be done with the factory ones as well, just check lock to lock to see where you have to open it up. I use blue locktite for the setscrews and just snug them, then shrink wrap them. I like to run a little lube in them, I use a product called HHS2000 by Wurth, its a lite grease that sprays on and then sets up, but it really works its way into any small gaps.
The final outcome is no more chatter, a smoother car and faster more consistent laps.
Is it worth it? Probably not if you can wait or get the factory ones, but I couldn't.
12-08-2011, 02:40 PM
#1997
Modified battery holders
I ordered a set of the carbon fiber battery holders and decided to modify them a bit to make them work better. They are designed to sit flat on the chassis and have the plastic hold down put on top, unfortunately this covers (almost entirely) the grooved slots in the chassis for taping. You can tape on top of the chassis still, but still wanted to tap under if I wanted. It's optional I ground the holders a bit to fit better (thinner and one edge shorter to not rub the steering mechanism). Works really good so far and holds the battery in much better.
I've been racing associated cars for a long time and can say that the 411 is a great quality car and very fast on carpet with minor adjustments.
I've been racing associated cars for a long time and can say that the 411 is a great quality car and very fast on carpet with minor adjustments.
12-08-2011, 05:27 PM
#1998
I HAVE RUN BOTH THE STOCK 2.5MM AND THE 2MM CHASSIS ON A SMALL TRACK (ITS ABOUT 40X70FT TRACK), LOW TRACTION BRAND NEW CARPET, INDOOR OF COURSE. TRACK TEMP IS RIGHT AROUND 50-60 DEGREES.
I REALLY LIKE THE FULL 2MM SETUP. UPPER DECK AS WELL. THE CAR FEELS PLANTED LIKE NEVER BEFORE. NO TRACTION ROLL. WITH THE 2.5MM CHASSIS AND DECK, MY LAP TIMES INCREASED BY .3S. SO I WENT BACK TO THE 2MM.
I'VE DONE MOST OF THE MODS ON HERE EXCEPT THE CHASSIS CUTTING.
IF ANYONE WANTS TO TRY MY SETUP WITH THE 2MM CHASSIS AND 2MM DECK:
FR SHOCK POSITION 4
RR SHOCK POSITION 1. SOMETIMES 2 DEPENDING ON TRACTION
REAR ARMS CENTERED. STOCK ARMS
FRONT ARMS SAME
LOW FRICTION BELTS.
1MM SHIM UNDER REAR INSIDE BALL STUD. (CAMBER LINK)
3MM SHIM ON REAR HUBS
2MM SHIM FRONT INSIDE BALL STUD (CAMBER LINK)
NOTHING ON C-HUBS
YELLOW SPRINGS FRONT
WHITE SPRINGS REAR
50WT OIL FRONT SHOCK OUTER LOWER HOLE
35WT OIL REAR SHOCK OUTER LOWER HOLE
USE THE THINNEST OIL YOU CAN BUY OR HAVE IN THE REAR DIFF. WD40 OR BEARING OIL WORKS WELL. IM USING LUCAS GUN OIL. HILLBILLY BUT IT WORKS. TRUST ME....
3.5 DEGREE REAR BLOCK WITH THE 0 DEGREE STOCK BLOCK 1MM SHIMS UNDER
STOCK TOE BLOCKS UP FRONT 1MM SHIMS UNDER
1MM SHIM UNDER BOTTOM SHOCK MOUNTS ON ALL A-ARMS. THIS ALIGNS THE SHOCKS BETTER WITH THE SHOCK TOWER.
STOCK SWAYBARS F AND R
NO WEIGHTS (CAR IS WITHIN 1-2 GRAMS ALL THE WAY AROUND)
2 DEGREES CAMBER REAR
1.5ISH DEGREES CAMBER FRONT
0 DEGREES FRONT TOE
SPOOL IN FRONT. I HAVE USED MY EXTRA SERPENT GEAR DIFF UP FRONT WITH 300K OIL, MUCH MORE STEERING. UP TO YOU ON THAT.....
TI-NI SHOCK SHAFTS
I DID THE STEERING MOD TO REMOVE THE SLACK AND 1MM SHIMS UNDER OUTER STEERING TIRODS.
IM USING THE TWO SCREWS CLOSEST TO THE SPUR ON THE UPPER DECK, AND THE TWO SCREWS TOWARD THE REAR OF THE CAR. THE 2 INBETWEEN THOSE ARE REMOVED.
LTC-R REGULAR WEIGHT BODY
NOTE, IT HAS BEEN SAID THAT USING CA GLUE TO SEAL THE EDGES OF YOUR CHASSIS CHANGES THE FLEX. MY 2.5MM WAS GLUED, THE 2MM IM USING WAS NOT.
IF YOU TRY THESE, LET ME KNOW HOW IT WORKS FOR YOU.
I CAN EMAIL PICS IF ANYONE WANTS TO SEE ANYTHING.
SINCE THE INDOOR SEASON OPENED 5-6 WEEKS AGO, THIS SETUP HAS BEEN UNCHANGED. I HAVE NOT MISSED A TQ NOR AN AMAIN WIN. THE CAR IS VERY CONSISTENT AND GOES ANYWHERE YOU PUT IT. EVERY MAIN I HAVE RUN WITH IT THIS SEASON, I HAVE WON BY AT LEAST ONE FULL LAP OF THE #2 GUY. WE RUN BLINKY 17.5.
I REALLY LIKE THE FULL 2MM SETUP. UPPER DECK AS WELL. THE CAR FEELS PLANTED LIKE NEVER BEFORE. NO TRACTION ROLL. WITH THE 2.5MM CHASSIS AND DECK, MY LAP TIMES INCREASED BY .3S. SO I WENT BACK TO THE 2MM.
I'VE DONE MOST OF THE MODS ON HERE EXCEPT THE CHASSIS CUTTING.
IF ANYONE WANTS TO TRY MY SETUP WITH THE 2MM CHASSIS AND 2MM DECK:
FR SHOCK POSITION 4
RR SHOCK POSITION 1. SOMETIMES 2 DEPENDING ON TRACTION
REAR ARMS CENTERED. STOCK ARMS
FRONT ARMS SAME
LOW FRICTION BELTS.
1MM SHIM UNDER REAR INSIDE BALL STUD. (CAMBER LINK)
3MM SHIM ON REAR HUBS
2MM SHIM FRONT INSIDE BALL STUD (CAMBER LINK)
NOTHING ON C-HUBS
YELLOW SPRINGS FRONT
WHITE SPRINGS REAR
50WT OIL FRONT SHOCK OUTER LOWER HOLE
35WT OIL REAR SHOCK OUTER LOWER HOLE
USE THE THINNEST OIL YOU CAN BUY OR HAVE IN THE REAR DIFF. WD40 OR BEARING OIL WORKS WELL. IM USING LUCAS GUN OIL. HILLBILLY BUT IT WORKS. TRUST ME....
3.5 DEGREE REAR BLOCK WITH THE 0 DEGREE STOCK BLOCK 1MM SHIMS UNDER
STOCK TOE BLOCKS UP FRONT 1MM SHIMS UNDER
1MM SHIM UNDER BOTTOM SHOCK MOUNTS ON ALL A-ARMS. THIS ALIGNS THE SHOCKS BETTER WITH THE SHOCK TOWER.
STOCK SWAYBARS F AND R
NO WEIGHTS (CAR IS WITHIN 1-2 GRAMS ALL THE WAY AROUND)
2 DEGREES CAMBER REAR
1.5ISH DEGREES CAMBER FRONT
0 DEGREES FRONT TOE
SPOOL IN FRONT. I HAVE USED MY EXTRA SERPENT GEAR DIFF UP FRONT WITH 300K OIL, MUCH MORE STEERING. UP TO YOU ON THAT.....
TI-NI SHOCK SHAFTS
I DID THE STEERING MOD TO REMOVE THE SLACK AND 1MM SHIMS UNDER OUTER STEERING TIRODS.
IM USING THE TWO SCREWS CLOSEST TO THE SPUR ON THE UPPER DECK, AND THE TWO SCREWS TOWARD THE REAR OF THE CAR. THE 2 INBETWEEN THOSE ARE REMOVED.
LTC-R REGULAR WEIGHT BODY
NOTE, IT HAS BEEN SAID THAT USING CA GLUE TO SEAL THE EDGES OF YOUR CHASSIS CHANGES THE FLEX. MY 2.5MM WAS GLUED, THE 2MM IM USING WAS NOT.
IF YOU TRY THESE, LET ME KNOW HOW IT WORKS FOR YOU.
I CAN EMAIL PICS IF ANYONE WANTS TO SEE ANYTHING.
SINCE THE INDOOR SEASON OPENED 5-6 WEEKS AGO, THIS SETUP HAS BEEN UNCHANGED. I HAVE NOT MISSED A TQ NOR AN AMAIN WIN. THE CAR IS VERY CONSISTENT AND GOES ANYWHERE YOU PUT IT. EVERY MAIN I HAVE RUN WITH IT THIS SEASON, I HAVE WON BY AT LEAST ONE FULL LAP OF THE #2 GUY. WE RUN BLINKY 17.5.
12-09-2011, 07:54 AM
#1999
S411 carpet setup
12-09-2011, 08:18 AM
#2000
Great body information
Stole this from another forum, but its great info for any car.
Does anyone have a comparison between the PF MazdaSpeed6 and the P37r?
For the Protoform bodies for the most stable to most aggressive:
Speed 6, P37-R, LTC-R
Speed 6: Generates very good on-power steering and the most stable.
P37-R: Combines the initial steering of the LTC-R and on-power steering of the Speed 6, rolls more and is good around carousels.
LTC-R: Generates more initial steering than the Speed 6 and P37 and less on-power steering.
__________________
RC America/XRAY/HUDY - Thunder Power RC - Sweep Racing USA - Protoform - Airtronics - Speed Passion USA - Exotek Racing - Pro-Level RC - Litemodz - BN Racing - FGH Investments LLC - West Coast RC Raceway - Ventura Roadrunners RC Raceway - CAL RC Raceway - TQ RC Raceway
Last edited by Fred Hubbard; Yesterday at 11:13 AM.
Does anyone have a comparison between the PF MazdaSpeed6 and the P37r?
For the Protoform bodies for the most stable to most aggressive:
Speed 6, P37-R, LTC-R
Speed 6: Generates very good on-power steering and the most stable.
P37-R: Combines the initial steering of the LTC-R and on-power steering of the Speed 6, rolls more and is good around carousels.
LTC-R: Generates more initial steering than the Speed 6 and P37 and less on-power steering.
__________________
RC America/XRAY/HUDY - Thunder Power RC - Sweep Racing USA - Protoform - Airtronics - Speed Passion USA - Exotek Racing - Pro-Level RC - Litemodz - BN Racing - FGH Investments LLC - West Coast RC Raceway - Ventura Roadrunners RC Raceway - CAL RC Raceway - TQ RC Raceway
Last edited by Fred Hubbard; Yesterday at 11:13 AM.
12-09-2011, 10:14 AM
#2001
MONEY
SO, WHEN I FIRST PUT THE CAR ON THE TRACK WEDNESDAY, IT BA-LEW.....AFTER SEVERAL TWEAKS, ITS MONEY. I DEVIATED FROM THE MOST RECENT SETUP POSTS A LITTLE BIT, BUT EVERY TRACK IS DIFFERENT. I MEAN IT IS MONEY! SUPER PLANTED AND FAST CORNER SPEED. THE CAR GOES EXACTLY WHERE I PUT IT WITHOUT BACK TALK.
OUT TRACK IS SMALL, UNPREDICTABLE TRACTION FROM WEEK TO WEEK, AND TECHNICAL. I WAS ABLE TO GET 32 SWEEPS TO HOOK UP WITH TRACTION TO SPARE.
SHIMS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
STOCK SHIMS UNDER ALL TOE BLOCKS FRONT AND REAR
1MM UNDER STEERING BLOCK ARMS ON TIEROD BALL FOR ACKERMAN
FRONT INSIDE 5MM
FRONT OUTSIDE NOTHING
REAR INSIDE 2MM
REAR OUTER (HUB) 5MM
2 DEGREE CAMBER ALL AROUND
ALL CAMBER LINKS LONG. INNER HOLES ON CLAMPS.
REAR A-ARMS BACK 1MM FROM CENTER
FRONT SHOCKS INNER MOST HOLE
REAR SHOCKS 3RD HOLE
YELLOW SERPENT SPRINGS IN FRONT
WHITE SERPENT SPRINGS IN REAR
5MM RIDE HEIGHT
ASSOCIATED 45WT REAR SHOCKS
ASSOCIATED 60WT FRONT SHOCKS
TWO SCREWS REMOVED FROM THE REAR UPPER DECK. I REMOVED THE CENTER ONES. IF I WERE TO REMOVE THE ONES CLOSEST TO THE MOTOR, I STRIP SPUR GEARS OUT. SO BE CAREFUL.
3.5 DEGREE REAR TOE BLOCK WITH THE 0.0 DEGREE BLOCK. FRONT IS STOCK
STOCK SWAYBARS ALL AROUND
TI-NI COATED SHOCK SHAFTS AND LOW FRICTION BELTS
DROOP IS 3.5MM FRONT AND 4MM REAR
2MM CHASSIS AND TOP DECK.
1200 SERPENT DIFF OIL IN DIFF. WITH FRONT SPOOL
RACING OPENS AT 5 TONIGHT. I CANT WAIT. THANKS TO ALL THE INPUT ON THIS CAR'S THREAD.
OUT TRACK IS SMALL, UNPREDICTABLE TRACTION FROM WEEK TO WEEK, AND TECHNICAL. I WAS ABLE TO GET 32 SWEEPS TO HOOK UP WITH TRACTION TO SPARE.
SHIMS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
STOCK SHIMS UNDER ALL TOE BLOCKS FRONT AND REAR
1MM UNDER STEERING BLOCK ARMS ON TIEROD BALL FOR ACKERMAN
FRONT INSIDE 5MM
FRONT OUTSIDE NOTHING
REAR INSIDE 2MM
REAR OUTER (HUB) 5MM
2 DEGREE CAMBER ALL AROUND
ALL CAMBER LINKS LONG. INNER HOLES ON CLAMPS.
REAR A-ARMS BACK 1MM FROM CENTER
FRONT SHOCKS INNER MOST HOLE
REAR SHOCKS 3RD HOLE
YELLOW SERPENT SPRINGS IN FRONT
WHITE SERPENT SPRINGS IN REAR
5MM RIDE HEIGHT
ASSOCIATED 45WT REAR SHOCKS
ASSOCIATED 60WT FRONT SHOCKS
TWO SCREWS REMOVED FROM THE REAR UPPER DECK. I REMOVED THE CENTER ONES. IF I WERE TO REMOVE THE ONES CLOSEST TO THE MOTOR, I STRIP SPUR GEARS OUT. SO BE CAREFUL.
3.5 DEGREE REAR TOE BLOCK WITH THE 0.0 DEGREE BLOCK. FRONT IS STOCK
STOCK SWAYBARS ALL AROUND
TI-NI COATED SHOCK SHAFTS AND LOW FRICTION BELTS
DROOP IS 3.5MM FRONT AND 4MM REAR
2MM CHASSIS AND TOP DECK.
1200 SERPENT DIFF OIL IN DIFF. WITH FRONT SPOOL
RACING OPENS AT 5 TONIGHT. I CANT WAIT. THANKS TO ALL THE INPUT ON THIS CAR'S THREAD.
So how did the testing go??
I have been running my car at our club track (small and very tight) and have had excessive front wheel chatter using a spool. I replaced the spool with a 500k gear diff and this helped quite a bit, about .15 seconds better lap times, but the gear diff just didn't give me the same feel as running a spool. I have been waiting for some ECS for the car for a while now, but they seem hard to get in NA.
So out of desperation I built my own. I had a pair of ECS for a 416, which supplied me with everything but proper fitting axles. For that I mated the axles from the Xray ECS to the 416 dog bones. The steering blocks are still a issue so I changed out the Serpent ones for the Xray Med ones. You will require a 1.5mm shim to make up the difference between the Serpent versus Xray hubs, but if you shim at the top and not the bottom the axle height is almost the same as stock. The C-hub requires a little grinding for clearance, but that has to be done with the factory ones as well, just check lock to lock to see where you have to open it up. I use blue locktite for the setscrews and just snug them, then shrink wrap them. I like to run a little lube in them, I use a product called HHS2000 by Wurth, its a lite grease that sprays on and then sets up, but it really works its way into any small gaps.
The final outcome is no more chatter, a smoother car and faster more consistent laps.
Is it worth it? Probably not if you can wait or get the factory ones, but I couldn't.
I have been running my car at our club track (small and very tight) and have had excessive front wheel chatter using a spool. I replaced the spool with a 500k gear diff and this helped quite a bit, about .15 seconds better lap times, but the gear diff just didn't give me the same feel as running a spool. I have been waiting for some ECS for the car for a while now, but they seem hard to get in NA.
So out of desperation I built my own. I had a pair of ECS for a 416, which supplied me with everything but proper fitting axles. For that I mated the axles from the Xray ECS to the 416 dog bones. The steering blocks are still a issue so I changed out the Serpent ones for the Xray Med ones. You will require a 1.5mm shim to make up the difference between the Serpent versus Xray hubs, but if you shim at the top and not the bottom the axle height is almost the same as stock. The C-hub requires a little grinding for clearance, but that has to be done with the factory ones as well, just check lock to lock to see where you have to open it up. I use blue locktite for the setscrews and just snug them, then shrink wrap them. I like to run a little lube in them, I use a product called HHS2000 by Wurth, its a lite grease that sprays on and then sets up, but it really works its way into any small gaps.
The final outcome is no more chatter, a smoother car and faster more consistent laps.
Is it worth it? Probably not if you can wait or get the factory ones, but I couldn't.
Last edited by BAD007SUZUKI; 12-09-2011 at 10:41 AM.
12-09-2011, 10:37 AM
#2002
Tech Rookie
So how did the testing go??
I have been running my car at our club track (small and very tight) and have had excessive front wheel chatter using a spool. I replaced the spool with a 500k gear diff and this helped quite a bit, about .15 seconds better lap times, but the gear diff just didn't give me the same feel as running a spool. I have been waiting for some ECS for the car for a while now, but they seem hard to get in NA.
So out of desperation I built my own. I had a pair of ECS for a 416, which supplied me with everything but proper fitting axles. For that I mated the axles from the Xray ECS to the 416 dog bones. The steering blocks are still a issue so I changed out the Serpent ones for the Xray Med ones. You will require a 1.5mm shim to make up the difference between the Serpent versus Xray hubs, but if you shim at the top and not the bottom the axle height is almost the same as stock. The C-hub requires a little grinding for clearance, but that has to be done with the factory ones as well, just check lock to lock to see where you have to open it up. I use blue locktite for the setscrews and just snug them, then shrink wrap them. I like to run a little lube in them, I use a product called HHS2000 by Wurth, its a lite grease that sprays on and then sets up, but it really works its way into any small gaps.
The final outcome is no more chatter, a smoother car and faster more consistent laps.
Is it worth it? Probably not if you can wait or get the factory ones, but I couldn't.
I have been running my car at our club track (small and very tight) and have had excessive front wheel chatter using a spool. I replaced the spool with a 500k gear diff and this helped quite a bit, about .15 seconds better lap times, but the gear diff just didn't give me the same feel as running a spool. I have been waiting for some ECS for the car for a while now, but they seem hard to get in NA.
So out of desperation I built my own. I had a pair of ECS for a 416, which supplied me with everything but proper fitting axles. For that I mated the axles from the Xray ECS to the 416 dog bones. The steering blocks are still a issue so I changed out the Serpent ones for the Xray Med ones. You will require a 1.5mm shim to make up the difference between the Serpent versus Xray hubs, but if you shim at the top and not the bottom the axle height is almost the same as stock. The C-hub requires a little grinding for clearance, but that has to be done with the factory ones as well, just check lock to lock to see where you have to open it up. I use blue locktite for the setscrews and just snug them, then shrink wrap them. I like to run a little lube in them, I use a product called HHS2000 by Wurth, its a lite grease that sprays on and then sets up, but it really works its way into any small gaps.
The final outcome is no more chatter, a smoother car and faster more consistent laps.
Is it worth it? Probably not if you can wait or get the factory ones, but I couldn't.
12-09-2011, 10:44 AM
#2003
12-09-2011, 07:45 PM
#2005
Tech Adept
it uses 3 shock towers 
12-09-2011, 08:58 PM
#2006
So i had to wait for the wife to be at work on the weekend before i could start my LE no.25 Build 
Im having problems uploading some images due to size on imageshack but ill do that later. I sanded the chassis but did not glue it. Who ever gave the tip of doing it underwater is genius as that made is so much easier. Once i had that done I skipped straight to the gear diff as this is something that has P*%#@d me of on numerous other cars. What a fantastic piece of work it is.
Also to add the tools included in this kit are great. Some of the screw heads are that tight i have to go back to my worn drivers to take a bit of an edge of the screws before the new driver will slot in. More so the 1.5mm and 2mm hex driver screws. And having owned Xrays previously the Orange on this Kit is much nicer than the xray techno orange. And the fit and finish so far is very good. Did not even ream the arms and they have zero play.
I'm pushing through tonight as my wife has a work Xmas show. Hoping i might get to electrics install later
Im having problems uploading some images due to size on imageshack but ill do that later. I sanded the chassis but did not glue it. Who ever gave the tip of doing it underwater is genius as that made is so much easier. Once i had that done I skipped straight to the gear diff as this is something that has P*%#@d me of on numerous other cars. What a fantastic piece of work it is. Also to add the tools included in this kit are great. Some of the screw heads are that tight i have to go back to my worn drivers to take a bit of an edge of the screws before the new driver will slot in. More so the 1.5mm and 2mm hex driver screws. And having owned Xrays previously the Orange on this Kit is much nicer than the xray techno orange. And the fit and finish so far is very good. Did not even ream the arms and they have zero play.
I'm pushing through tonight as my wife has a work Xmas show. Hoping i might get to electrics install later
12-10-2011, 05:18 AM
#2009
That LE looks great, any recommendations on mods during the build?
I noticed a steering mod to remove play, can any one recommend any others?
Did the arms require reaming and do you know what size reamer you had used?
Looks like a work of art, now the question is how will it compare to my 2011.
As far as spares, where are you guys in the US ordering from? Obviously Amain and RC Mart has a decent selection are there any others?
I noticed a steering mod to remove play, can any one recommend any others?
Did the arms require reaming and do you know what size reamer you had used?
Looks like a work of art, now the question is how will it compare to my 2011.
As far as spares, where are you guys in the US ordering from? Obviously Amain and RC Mart has a decent selection are there any others?
12-10-2011, 05:24 AM
#2010
Tech Adept
That LE looks great, any recommendations on mods during the build?
I noticed a steering mod to remove play, can any one recommend any others?
Did the arms require reaming and do you know what size reamer you had used?
Looks like a work of art, now the question is how will it compare to my 2011.
As far as spares, where are you guys in the US ordering from? Obviously Amain and RC Mart has a decent selection are there any others?
I noticed a steering mod to remove play, can any one recommend any others?
Did the arms require reaming and do you know what size reamer you had used?
Looks like a work of art, now the question is how will it compare to my 2011.
As far as spares, where are you guys in the US ordering from? Obviously Amain and RC Mart has a decent selection are there any others?