16LikesSerpent S411
12-06-2011, 03:46 AM
#1981
Tech Adept
Hi,
Lowering the pivot block is the same as raising the ball stud on the inner link, so more mid corner, less initial bite and vice versa. I find personally that 0.5mm change in the lower roll centre gives me as noticeable a change as 1mm in the upper roll centre if that makes sense??? Basically I find it a more sensitive change when adjusting the lower roll centre. Just remember to re-adjust the droop afterwards
On the rear of the car - Anti squat is a way of slowing or controlling the rear of the car "dropping" or squatting on power as the suspension can't collapse as easily. Outcome - It gives more forward traction out of corners and more steering on power, but on the downside the car can become less stable on corner entry and worse through the bumps on power.
On the front of the car - Anti dive is a way of slowing down the weight transfer on the nose of the car off power. Car becomes more stable on the way into the corner, and you can gain some off power steering (I know, this seems like a contradiction - but remember you will also be reducing the caster angle with anti dive) but you loose some on power steering. The car also is worse through bumps with more anti-dive.
The best setup guide i have ever read is by Elvo - link below
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
Very easy to follow and really helped me! The sections on the roll centre are very cool as they have simple animations to show the main points.
HTH
Dave
Lowering the pivot block is the same as raising the ball stud on the inner link, so more mid corner, less initial bite and vice versa. I find personally that 0.5mm change in the lower roll centre gives me as noticeable a change as 1mm in the upper roll centre if that makes sense??? Basically I find it a more sensitive change when adjusting the lower roll centre. Just remember to re-adjust the droop afterwards
On the rear of the car - Anti squat is a way of slowing or controlling the rear of the car "dropping" or squatting on power as the suspension can't collapse as easily. Outcome - It gives more forward traction out of corners and more steering on power, but on the downside the car can become less stable on corner entry and worse through the bumps on power.
On the front of the car - Anti dive is a way of slowing down the weight transfer on the nose of the car off power. Car becomes more stable on the way into the corner, and you can gain some off power steering (I know, this seems like a contradiction - but remember you will also be reducing the caster angle with anti dive) but you loose some on power steering. The car also is worse through bumps with more anti-dive.
The best setup guide i have ever read is by Elvo - link below
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/
Very easy to follow and really helped me! The sections on the roll centre are very cool as they have simple animations to show the main points.
HTH
Dave
Perfect explanations :-)
12-06-2011, 08:26 AM
#1983
NEW INFO.
IM GOING TO TRY THE "SWEET SPOT" ON WEDNESDAY. IM NOW BEING TOLD THAT THERE ARE MAGICAL MEASUREMENTS THAT MOST CARS WILL WORK WITH. ITS HAS TO DO WITH THE RELATION OF THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS TO THE HINGE PINS. BOTH INNER AND OUTER PINS. IT ALSO HAS TO DO WITH THE HEIGHT OF THE BALL STUDS IN RELATION TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS. SO ONCE YOU GET CLOSE TO THE IDEAL NUMBERS, IM BEING TOLD YOUR IN THE MONEY. AT THAT POINT ITS SHOCK POSITION AND OTHER MINOR VARIABLES YOU ADJUST TO GET THE LAST 5% OF THE CAR DIALED.
I WAS ALWAYS TOLD "THAT THE CAR IS A BUNCH OF LEVERS".
SIMPLY PUT, I DIDNT UNDERSTAND WHY THEY WERE USING SO MANY SHIMS. MY CAR HAS WORKED FINE THIS SEASON SINCE DAY ONE. I'VE BEEN FORTUNATE THAT I HAVE NOT LOST A TQ OR AMAIN WIN AT THE LOCAL TRACK THIS SEASON.
I WAS ALWAYS TOLD "THAT THE CAR IS A BUNCH OF LEVERS".
SIMPLY PUT, I DIDNT UNDERSTAND WHY THEY WERE USING SO MANY SHIMS. MY CAR HAS WORKED FINE THIS SEASON SINCE DAY ONE. I'VE BEEN FORTUNATE THAT I HAVE NOT LOST A TQ OR AMAIN WIN AT THE LOCAL TRACK THIS SEASON.
12-06-2011, 09:57 AM
#1984
Guys what are the main differences between the LE kit and standard?
Outside of including extra tools and colors on the anodized aluminum?
Is the v2 kit very similar? Looks like the LE kit keeps getting pushed out for release.
For those of you that have come from driving a T3 2011 do you have any feedback you could share?
Thanks!
Outside of including extra tools and colors on the anodized aluminum?
Is the v2 kit very similar? Looks like the LE kit keeps getting pushed out for release.
For those of you that have come from driving a T3 2011 do you have any feedback you could share?
Thanks!
12-06-2011, 12:38 PM
#1985
I believe the LE version also comes with 2 gear diffs (not 1 and a spool) and the CF battery holders also. I can confirm tonight, as I'm picking up my LE today!
Guys what are the main differences between the LE kit and standard?
Outside of including extra tools and colors on the anodized aluminum?
Is the v2 kit very similar? Looks like the LE kit keeps getting pushed out for release.
For those of you that have come from driving a T3 2011 do you have any feedback you could share?
Thanks!
Outside of including extra tools and colors on the anodized aluminum?
Is the v2 kit very similar? Looks like the LE kit keeps getting pushed out for release.
For those of you that have come from driving a T3 2011 do you have any feedback you could share?
Thanks!
12-06-2011, 09:32 PM
#1986
From my understanding it comes with a spool and 2 gear diffs. They would be stupid to not include a spool still as this is what the majority of people still use. Plus if they are not going to include a spool they have to include a suitable front gear diff oil and i dont see this listed anywhere on the kit components...
12-06-2011, 10:03 PM
#1987
LE KITS
From my understanding it comes with a spool and 2 gear diffs. They would be stupid to not include a spool still as this is what the majority of people still use. Plus if they are not going to include a spool they have to include a suitable front gear diff oil and i dont see this listed anywhere on the kit components...
This is correct. Two diff kits and the spool kit but no DCJ's.
Kits are in stock.
Cheers
Ren
Last edited by venom54; 12-06-2011 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Addition.
12-06-2011, 10:17 PM
#1988
Tech Regular
CAN PATTO OR ANYONE ELSE ANSWER THIS:
WHY ON ALL THE TOP 6 SETUPS I DOWNLOADED (FOR CARPET) AND PRINTED AND COMPARED, ARE FISCHER, NEILSEN, OLSEN, AND BOTZENHART RUNNING LARGE MM SHIMS ON THE INSIDE UPPER CAMBER LINKS. (ON THE UPPER CLAMPS). THIS WOULD REMOVE CAMBER RISE FROM THE CAR, RIGHT? SO AS THE CAR CORNERS AND WITH TRACTION, THE FULCRUM OF THE CAR/CAMBERLINK FORCES THE TIRES TO LOOSE TRACTION?
AM I THINKING ABOUT THIS CORRECTLY? OR BASSACKWARDS...........
IM RUNNING 1MM REAR INSIDE CAMBER LINK AND 2MM INSIDE FRONT CAMBER LINK SHIMS. THE REAR HUMBS HAVE 3MM AND THE FRONT CHUBS HAVE NOTHING. MY CAMBERLINKS ARE ANGLED DOWN TOWARD THE CENTER OF THE CAR GIVING IT HUGE CAMBER RISE. MY TIRES "CHIRP" AROUND CORNERS BUT IF I DRIVE IT OUT OF THE GROOVE OR TOO HARD ON THROTTLE, ITS A BEAST TO CONTROL.
WOULD CHANGING MY SHIMS HELP THIS?
I CAN SNAP PICS TO BETTER ILLUSTRATE.....
WHY ON ALL THE TOP 6 SETUPS I DOWNLOADED (FOR CARPET) AND PRINTED AND COMPARED, ARE FISCHER, NEILSEN, OLSEN, AND BOTZENHART RUNNING LARGE MM SHIMS ON THE INSIDE UPPER CAMBER LINKS. (ON THE UPPER CLAMPS). THIS WOULD REMOVE CAMBER RISE FROM THE CAR, RIGHT? SO AS THE CAR CORNERS AND WITH TRACTION, THE FULCRUM OF THE CAR/CAMBERLINK FORCES THE TIRES TO LOOSE TRACTION?
AM I THINKING ABOUT THIS CORRECTLY? OR BASSACKWARDS...........
IM RUNNING 1MM REAR INSIDE CAMBER LINK AND 2MM INSIDE FRONT CAMBER LINK SHIMS. THE REAR HUMBS HAVE 3MM AND THE FRONT CHUBS HAVE NOTHING. MY CAMBERLINKS ARE ANGLED DOWN TOWARD THE CENTER OF THE CAR GIVING IT HUGE CAMBER RISE. MY TIRES "CHIRP" AROUND CORNERS BUT IF I DRIVE IT OUT OF THE GROOVE OR TOO HARD ON THROTTLE, ITS A BEAST TO CONTROL.
WOULD CHANGING MY SHIMS HELP THIS?
I CAN SNAP PICS TO BETTER ILLUSTRATE.....
Front long, inside mounting hole with 4mm of shims, no shims on outside
Rear short, outer hole on chassis and inner hole on upright, 2mm shim on both
Camber front 0.0 - 0.5 deg neg
rear 2.0 deg neg
Also, we like the car with soft springs. We are using white springs all the way around and the shock are mounted of the inner most hole of the shock tower. Stocks bars, 2.5mm chassis, 3.5 deg of rear toe, 5mm of ride height
12-06-2011, 10:20 PM
#1989
Tech Regular
Guys what are the main differences between the LE kit and standard?
Outside of including extra tools and colors on the anodized aluminum?
Is the v2 kit very similar? Looks like the LE kit keeps getting pushed out for release.
For those of you that have come from driving a T3 2011 do you have any feedback you could share?
Thanks!
Outside of including extra tools and colors on the anodized aluminum?
Is the v2 kit very similar? Looks like the LE kit keeps getting pushed out for release.
For those of you that have come from driving a T3 2011 do you have any feedback you could share?
Thanks!
12-07-2011, 12:48 AM
#1990
Got mine today, looks sooo sweet, cant wait to build him now.
Rhys
Rhys
From my understanding it comes with a spool and 2 gear diffs. They would be stupid to not include a spool still as this is what the majority of people still use. Plus if they are not going to include a spool they have to include a suitable front gear diff oil and i dont see this listed anywhere on the kit components...
12-07-2011, 02:51 AM
#1991
Got my LE today also...kit no.24, although the number will have worn off by the time I'm finished with it 
12-07-2011, 05:03 AM
#1993
Tech Adept
just looked at serpent's web
they have different belt than the original one
the original #401351 low friction
and the optional is #401350
can someone tell me the difference?
they have different belt than the original one
the original #401351 low friction
and the optional is #401350
can someone tell me the difference?
12-07-2011, 12:07 PM
#1994
We have found that you need to have more camber gain in the rear than in the front. We liked the best running the front link long and relatively flat and the rear link short and with a slight angle. This translates to:
Front long, inside mounting hole with 4mm of shims, no shims on outside
Rear short, outer hole on chassis and inner hole on upright, 2mm shim on both
Camber front 0.0 - 0.5 deg neg
rear 2.0 deg neg
Also, we like the car with soft springs. We are using white springs all the way around and the shock are mounted of the inner most hole of the shock tower. Stocks bars, 2.5mm chassis, 3.5 deg of rear toe, 5mm of ride height
Front long, inside mounting hole with 4mm of shims, no shims on outside
Rear short, outer hole on chassis and inner hole on upright, 2mm shim on both
Camber front 0.0 - 0.5 deg neg
rear 2.0 deg neg
Also, we like the car with soft springs. We are using white springs all the way around and the shock are mounted of the inner most hole of the shock tower. Stocks bars, 2.5mm chassis, 3.5 deg of rear toe, 5mm of ride height
12-07-2011, 12:43 PM
#1995
THX
PRACTICE OPENS IN AN HOUR. ILL TRY IT. THANKS
We have found that you need to have more camber gain in the rear than in the front. We liked the best running the front link long and relatively flat and the rear link short and with a slight angle. This translates to:
Front long, inside mounting hole with 4mm of shims, no shims on outside
Rear short, outer hole on chassis and inner hole on upright, 2mm shim on both
Camber front 0.0 - 0.5 deg neg
rear 2.0 deg neg
Also, we like the car with soft springs. We are using white springs all the way around and the shock are mounted of the inner most hole of the shock tower. Stocks bars, 2.5mm chassis, 3.5 deg of rear toe, 5mm of ride height
Front long, inside mounting hole with 4mm of shims, no shims on outside
Rear short, outer hole on chassis and inner hole on upright, 2mm shim on both
Camber front 0.0 - 0.5 deg neg
rear 2.0 deg neg
Also, we like the car with soft springs. We are using white springs all the way around and the shock are mounted of the inner most hole of the shock tower. Stocks bars, 2.5mm chassis, 3.5 deg of rear toe, 5mm of ride height