Eddie M

iTrader: (4)

I race my 411 FF in 17.5 blinky class up against 4wd chassis during 2012/2013 indoor carpet season at our local club. While I am always finish top 5 of the blinky class but it is impossible to beat other racers at my skill level driving a 4wd chassis and with decent setup. Unless you are exceptionally skilled, a tough battle is awaiting for you Being a FWD car, you want to get the weight bias toward the font of the car as much as possible. You are also welcome to try my FF setup here

BTW, I have the most fun with the 411 FF even when I hardly win any races with it

Trez83

iTrader: (8)

And isn't having fun what this hobby is all about? I get smoked in my USVTA class because I still do not have the best set up for my driving style, but it sure is fun to try to hang with the big boys.

Trez83

iTrader: (8)

Benzaah -I will try this after I try a softer front spring. Any help is appreciated. I want to represent Serpent proudly!

Linguster

Yesterday we had our 3rd round in the MSEC cup in Sweden. Needles to say indoor at this part of the year in Sweden :-)

I had no consistence in the race. One fast lap in each round, but that will not make a race :-(

I am still running one of my older Eryx chassies. I have not "been able" yet to get the new chassie not to bind in the plastic, but also in the front axle in the hub. I think that is maybe sorted out now. I put in a Kyosho outer hub bearing. This bearing has a smaller wall between the balls and the wall. I will know when I try. I can get it to move freely but coming in after one run the axle is not running freely and I need to take it appart again. My thought is that the plastic "wall" between the inner and outer bearíng is thicker and makes the pin "ride" on the bearingwalls. There is no slack that you could have in older kits and you needed to shim to get rid of the play.

I have the idea that the plastic that comes with the kit should be able to use, not need to put in parts from the spare bags...

I learned a new tuning option yesterday. The team Xray drivers are using the possibility to have the diff in high/normal and low positon to dial in the balance. I will try it when I get my new chassie to "work"

valk

iTrader: (13)

was working on my 2012 TE the other day and i swear you have GOT to do somthing about the spur gear mount system. its very pretty and im sure its very strong but changing the spur takes a bit of time.
on my spec r "$89" i can change it in a minute. almost possible to pull into the pits and have it changed while still finishing the race.

but.. minor grievance asside..

excited to finally dust it off the shelf and run it at WCICS5 victoria!. i havent run it since summer and our outdoor trophy race. qualified 5th and finished 5th. but the peoples ahead of me were.. like.. keith yu.. blake bell, dave elrich.. korgae.. so i take that 5th with a big grin!

Our carpet is pretty new, was virgin at last years event. we will be running a sweep true blue control tire. any suggestions for starting setup with a 4.5 motor?
this car is kind of a dinosaur now i suppose.

Linguster

Our carpet is pretty new, was virgin at last years event. we will be running a sweep true blue control tire. any suggestions for starting setup with a 4.5 motor?
this car is kind of a dinosaur now i suppose.[/QUOTE]

Maybe my advise of setup is not that valid given my last post :-)

But from a general point of view I think the grip that you have are similar to that we run on.

Front

2 toeblock front and rear
Short upper arm (4mm,0mm)
6 droop on block
Yokomo Pink
3 hole 400 (ss-shocks)
Postition 4
RH 5.2
Camber ~1.75
Spool
1.4mm swaybar

Rear
0.5 front 3.5 rear
Long upper am 3mm,2mm
5 droop on block
Yokomo Blue
3 hole 350 (ss-shocks)
Position 4
RH 5.4
Camber ~1.75
V3 diff 2000 to 3000
1.4mm swaybar outer position


112/27 gearing with TP 4.5 and 5 to 20 in turbo/boost (HW3) dependent on the track.

valk

iTrader: (13)

THank you for the response =)
the biggest difference between that and my default seems to be dif oil thickness and springrate. im running serpent yellow/grey combo with stock RCM shocks. not sure how the hole vs short shocks compare but i tend to run inner holes for the front and middle hole for the rear. same oils you have, same roll centers.
dont have the toe blocks listed.

ah well. we will see how much my vrc training has paid off this year.

Linguster

I did also run on the gray/white combo but liked the Yokomo pink/blue combo better. Good luck!

#iZzy

Hey,

in the future i will be at some practices together with marc fischer - as already in the past, some month ago. Just had a small break ^^

I know him very well and i'm driving for serpent, too. Maybe someone have some questions about marc's cars where i can help. usually, i'm not visiting rctech every day but i will do it at least 1 time per week.

Yesterday we tried already the new 6GX. In my opinion it's a good overall body, has more stability as the speed6 (especially mid-corner at rear) and also more steering but has sometimes too much "bite" for carpet-racing. Seems to be a good choice for low-grip carpet tracks or asphalt.

musti72

hi, I have plenty of questions for you about marc's car based on high traction carpet(ets), I hope you dont mind

-what is his basic setup at the moment?
-does he use "new" hard plastics and hard 2.0mm chassis?
-how much steering throw does he use?(angle of inside wheel)
-on the radio, what other settings does he use
-what rebound in the shocks?
-shock o rings and diff outdrive o rings, what is he using?
-why doesnt he glue the tire side walls on very high traction? at least last time I saw him in last years ets race, he did not prefer, but it is really hard to drive without traction roll.
-did you guys test high diff position? how was it on high grip carpet?

thanks!

Geberit

+1

#iZzy

-what is his basic setup at the moment?
he haven't changed a lot since the last races/month. Just use his Snowbird Setup as base, it's very similar. Normally Toe-Blocks 2/1.5 or 1.5/1.5, rear 0/3 or 0.5/3.0 - with splitted blocks all the time. Lower & Higher Rollcenter are exactly the same as there, diff etc. too. Springs Yokomo Pink/Blue, but sometimes he is trying around with serpent springs - they're working good too. Some teamdrivers here are saying they're often easier to drive, but the yokomo springs are sometimes a tenth faster :P Camber 1,5° around. Droop mostly 6/5, 5.5/4.5 - depends on Track.

-does he use "new" hard plastics and hard 2.0mm chassis?
Yes, he is using the new hard 2.0mm chassis - for him the best choice for carpet, but he says to me it seems to be good for asphalt, too. It's very interesting, this thinner chassis is really harder different carbon fibre layout. Plastic Parts he is using all hard parts - wishbones, c-hubs, uprights.

-how much steering throw does he use?(angle of inside wheel)
he always using maximum steering throw, it's his driving style - often a bit harder than ronald as example. I think it's maybe of his 1:12 pan cars time, he can't have enough steering - he likes if the rear of the car is a bit crazy It's very interesting to see him driving, 1-2mm at the steering wheel and he is driving through a hairpin

-on the radio, what other settings does he use
nothing special, no TH-expo etc. Sometimes he is using a bit steering negative expo, that's it.

-what rebound in the shocks?
he is trying a bit around with this on every track, sometimes zero rebound, sometimes 1-2mm rebound. usually, never more than 2mm.

-shock o rings and diff outdrive o rings, what is he using?
- kit o-rings he said to me but wanna try some different/new soon.

-why doesnt he glue the tire side walls on very high traction? at least last time I saw him in last years ets race, he did not prefer, but it is really hard to drive without traction roll.
He don't like it because it isn't looking cool Simple as it is, he is everytime trying to compensate this through setup & driving skills. If he really have no other chance, then he glue the walls.

-did you guys test high diff position? how was it on high grip carpet?
He tried it already and if i remember right the higher position had less grip and the car feels a bit more unpredictable. He prefer's the default diff position currently, but maybe he have to try around with this on some different tracks.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Has anyone tried the 2.0 hard chassis on high traction asphalt? Was it better than the standard ERYX chassis? What was the main difference in the way the car drove between the 2 chassis?

Geberit

See Brunelli set-ups (Read Remarks!) http://www.serpent.com/product/400013/setups/

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Hi Bjorne, I think part of your bind problem is the same as one of the racers posted a couple of pages back.......I haven't got a new kit, but it sounds like the diff cams may be slighlty larger and when you clamp down the upper shock tower bulkheads its pinching the cam and causing your bind problem. Best thing would be to use either .1mm or .2mm shims bewtwwen the lower and upper bulkheads so that you can float the cam a little, this should fix the binding issue. The older cars didn't seem to have this problem, but just to check your car, once its assembled, use a screwdriver and see if you can move the cam just a little (floating), if you can't shim it till you get a little movement.

I have tried the diff up and down on carpet here and also found that the default always seems to work the best.

On a side note, our cars first versions with a few less adjustments seem to end up being the best setup options. New cars are coming out that seem to drop some of the adjustments and are closer to our cars format.

I think one of the differences that shows up more than the stiffness of the chassis is the difference in the lower roll centers, something that is probably forgotten when changing plates or looking at setups.

Had a really good weekend at the WCIC with a really sweet carpet setup.