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Old 06-25-2013, 09:31 PM
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steve got a fricken AMAZING DEAL on that car... he played all cool but yea.. amazing deal.

clean out the bearings with some brakleen. she be fast.
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:14 AM
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Has anyone tried the 3Racing (SAK-X27) drive shaft instead of the DJC
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
Has anyone tried the 3Racing (SAK-X27) drive shaft instead of the DJC
why would you do that, haven't had any trouble with my DJC in my mod car or my 17.5.
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Old 06-26-2013, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gearhead_22 View Post
why would you do that, haven't had any trouble with my DJC in my mod car or my 17.5.
the 3Racing are about $30 cheaper, and do the same job as the DJC,

I think I have raced with you before at critters, do you know any local spots that supply parts for the 411.
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:08 AM
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Default C-hubs and the DJC axel's

In my TE I was "forced" to dremmel out some material on the inside of the C-hub to make shure the axel/joint had clearance on turning the wheels.

Does anyone know if they have modefied anything on later C-hubs that comes with the Eryx kit, so the clearance is there without dremeling?
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
the 3Racing are about $30 cheaper, and do the same job as the DJC,

I think I have raced with you before at critters, do you know any local spots that supply parts for the 411.
I dont know any place local. 90% of my parts come from serpent america and the rest come from a-main or ebay. I find real good deals on ebay from rc waffle.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post

I think I have raced with you before at critters.
Yes I have been to critters a couple of times I didnt know there was anyone there with a 411. next time introduce your self.
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Old 06-27-2013, 07:57 AM
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got my ERYX set up with my LRP flow and 5.5 X20 ready to lay some rubber down at the sweep challenge.
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gearhead_22 View Post
Yes I have been to critters a couple of times I didnt know there was anyone there with a 411. next time introduce your self.
Hey, I was previously running a Photon, just got the s411 TE 3 weeks ago, just need to get some time to test and run it. Just need to get some spares before running it though cause you never know, hit the wall the wrong way and your done for the day.
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Old 06-27-2013, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
Hey, running on carpet, small technical track.
Thanks,
I have a setup I have been working on for a while now, using the TE car, its a little out of the ordinary but if you want to try it shoot me a pm and I'll supply you with the particulars.

Originally Posted by Phoenix82 View Post
Hey Valk. what a peace of crap it is!!!!. No Is super clean, I am excited to get my stuff in it and run. Thanks to Steve for the great buy. Ill keep you all informed on how my first run goes. Johnny Wishbone is gonna hate me with all the questions I'm going to ask.

Nick K
What makes you think I didn't hate you before you got the car? jk

Originally Posted by Linguster View Post
In my TE I was "forced" to dremmel out some material on the inside of the C-hub to make shure the axel/joint had clearance on turning the wheels.

Does anyone know if they have modefied anything on later C-hubs that comes with the Eryx kit, so the clearance is there without dremeling?
I haven't had any clearance issues with any of the newer c-hubs, you must have some of the first gen ones. Although now that I think about it, I can't remember the last time I broke a c-hub.

Originally Posted by gearhead_22 View Post
got my ERYX set up with my LRP flow and 5.5 X20 ready to lay some rubber down at the sweep challenge.
Car looks good. Thats got to be the biggest battery charger I've ever seen, you must be able to charge well past 70 amps with that thing.

Originally Posted by tiago890 View Post
Hey, I was previously running a Photon, just got the s411 TE 3 weeks ago, just need to get some time to test and run it. Just need to get some spares before running it though cause you never know, hit the wall the wrong way and your done for the day.
Worst case, you can modify a Xray hard bumper to help with any breakage issues. The new arms (Eryx) are really strong, so we are seeing less broken parts.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:00 PM
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Hi, hoping I could get some advice. I have recently got back into the hobby and have been playing around with 1/8 but decided I would like to get into 1/10 TC as there are more options for racing locally. I have a Cobra GT-e which is a great car so the S411 ERYX seems like natural choice as I have been very happy with Serpent. There is a nice track about an hour from me that runs 17.5 stock and 13.5 spec classes. Plus there is plenty of parking lot racing meetups in the area.

I have been reading through this massive thread as well as any other info I can find. 1/10 TC is way more technical and tweaky than GT8. So basically I am trying to figure out a good start point to work from. Right now i'm leaning toward a D3.5 Maxilla 13.5T, Vortex R10 Pro ESC, Futaba S9352HV (already own 4 so why not another) for electronics. I have plenty of Tekin and Castle 1/8 gear which have been great and I like but thought I might try something different. I would welcome any feed back on my choices.

My big issue is where to start on gearing, what pinion/spur combo? I know this is a loaded question but I have to start somewhere. I would be running on outdoor small to medium sized tracks. From what I can find on the internet around a 5.0 FDR would be good for starters. Not sure how to calculate backwards from there. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:42 PM
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That ESC is major overkill for stock racing, you could save a few bucks there. Personally, I've got my eye on the HobbyWing V3.1 Stock Spec for stock racing next year:
http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=289

Very flexible programming features, and still handles down to 4.5T if you end up going that route.

The HV servo is not needed; you would be much better off going with a low-profile servo just so it all fits in the chassis nicely. One good old standby is the Futaba S9551.

I haven't run any 13.5 blinky, but I'm guessing you will want a 92T spur and pinions in the 40-46T range (approx 4.0-4.5 FDR). The best thing is to ask people at your particular track for a starting FDR.
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Old 06-27-2013, 02:44 PM
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You'd be better served with a low profile servo. Futaba S9551(?) or BLS551, or similar.

-Mike
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:04 PM
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Thanks for the input I was considering the Futaba S9551 I will likely go that route as it keeps coming up. Im guessing it will feel as quick as the S9352HV does on my Cobra which I like. I was leaning toward the R10 pro because of the field programmer had an LCD screen. I use mostly MACs and drudging out the Windows laptop to the track to tweak is a pain. Im used to the RX8 two button thing and have a hotwire but always wanted a better option without having to use the PC. That was worth the extra money. Im assuming from what I can tell it is a very nice ESC, pretty reliable, and small too which is a plus.
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:16 PM
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HobbyWing uses a similar LCD programmer. In fact, it may be the identical programmer as I understand HW is the OEM for certain Orion products.
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