16LikesSerpent S411
05-06-2013, 06:44 AM
#5506
Totally agree with what Ryan has said, he knows his shizzle. Just to expand on a couple of points from my experience;
Hole 3 in the rear seems to be a really good starting point, so I would try 4f 3r to start out, especially on the Ride Blues.
2K in the rear diff will help to smooth the car out, and take away some off power steering, whilst gaining on-power. I actually use 3K now when the traction gets up.
Going to a 1.5 FR split block will, as mentioned, help to take away mid-corner. Bare in mind it also lengthens the wheelbase a little, and adjusts the ackerman... all which contribute, IMO, to make the car more consistent through the turn. This weekend I actually went to 1.5/1.5 front blocks, and really liked how that felt, as it gained more initial... so worth trying that as well.
Had another good weekend at the track this week, didn't change too much on the car, as overall quite happy with my base setup now.
Main tweaks I made during the day were;
Springs - Switched to HPI silvers, as the Ride Greens were causing the car to stop mid corner. Did think about going to the Blues instead, but have been meaning to try out silvers for a while. It's interesting, but thats the first time in a long time that I've felt happy with the car on Silvers.
Front blocks - As mentioned above switched to 1.5/1.5 blocks to take out the arm sweep. Gained initial, and seemed more consistent to drive through the corners.
Front wheelbase - Prior to playing with the front blocks, I also lengthened the front wheelbase, going to a 1.5mm shim in front of the arm to match the wheelbase of the straight arms. Felt it was an improvement over shorter, but hard to put my finger on why...
Motor mount - Still running the one-piece with L-bracket, without any rear screws in the top (option 2 in the Eryx manual). However something I wanted to try for a while was something I had spotted on the Yokomo and Tamiya Raceberry cars.. and that was using a set screw, rather than a normal countersunk screw in the bottom. Now, I only use the front screw when running that mount anyway, so just locktited a 8mm setscrew in place of that. Did the change mid run, so got a good feel for it. It actually helped to tighten the rear of the car up a little, but not as much as say switching to the option 2 mount style. So I think that it's a good compromise between the option 1 and option 2, and a handy tweak to bare in mind. Will be staying like this for the time being I think
Anyway, next time out, I've got a few things to try... Wider front and rear suspension blocks, Yok springs (again), and also give the split rear blocks a try in combination with the wider blocks... it's a never ending list, but now I feel like I've got a good handle on what does what with the car, so can tune it as I need.
Setup attached
Hole 3 in the rear seems to be a really good starting point, so I would try 4f 3r to start out, especially on the Ride Blues.
2K in the rear diff will help to smooth the car out, and take away some off power steering, whilst gaining on-power. I actually use 3K now when the traction gets up.
Going to a 1.5 FR split block will, as mentioned, help to take away mid-corner. Bare in mind it also lengthens the wheelbase a little, and adjusts the ackerman... all which contribute, IMO, to make the car more consistent through the turn. This weekend I actually went to 1.5/1.5 front blocks, and really liked how that felt, as it gained more initial... so worth trying that as well.
Had another good weekend at the track this week, didn't change too much on the car, as overall quite happy with my base setup now.
Main tweaks I made during the day were;
Springs - Switched to HPI silvers, as the Ride Greens were causing the car to stop mid corner. Did think about going to the Blues instead, but have been meaning to try out silvers for a while. It's interesting, but thats the first time in a long time that I've felt happy with the car on Silvers.
Front blocks - As mentioned above switched to 1.5/1.5 blocks to take out the arm sweep. Gained initial, and seemed more consistent to drive through the corners.
Front wheelbase - Prior to playing with the front blocks, I also lengthened the front wheelbase, going to a 1.5mm shim in front of the arm to match the wheelbase of the straight arms. Felt it was an improvement over shorter, but hard to put my finger on why...
Motor mount - Still running the one-piece with L-bracket, without any rear screws in the top (option 2 in the Eryx manual). However something I wanted to try for a while was something I had spotted on the Yokomo and Tamiya Raceberry cars.. and that was using a set screw, rather than a normal countersunk screw in the bottom. Now, I only use the front screw when running that mount anyway, so just locktited a 8mm setscrew in place of that. Did the change mid run, so got a good feel for it. It actually helped to tighten the rear of the car up a little, but not as much as say switching to the option 2 mount style. So I think that it's a good compromise between the option 1 and option 2, and a handy tweak to bare in mind. Will be staying like this for the time being I think
Anyway, next time out, I've got a few things to try... Wider front and rear suspension blocks, Yok springs (again), and also give the split rear blocks a try in combination with the wider blocks... it's a never ending list, but now I feel like I've got a good handle on what does what with the car, so can tune it as I need.
Setup attached
05-06-2013, 12:54 PM
#5507
Hi Geberit,
I had a look at your setup, looks really similar to what I used to run and I found it doing what you're describing. Basically I would consider changing the following:
- FR Split blocks to 1.5
- Front shocks to hole 4
- Rear Shocks Hole 2-4 (see what you like best)
- Rear diff to 2,000
Ryan.
I had a look at your setup, looks really similar to what I used to run and I found it doing what you're describing. Basically I would consider changing the following:
- FR Split blocks to 1.5
- Front shocks to hole 4
- Rear Shocks Hole 2-4 (see what you like best)
- Rear diff to 2,000
Ryan.
05-06-2013, 01:39 PM
#5508
Yes, but the weird thing is that the car is on power planted like an ''old oak'' no push at all. Off power the rear steps out in mid and exit of corner like too much weight goes to the front or something.
05-06-2013, 02:37 PM
#5509
-Roll bars
-Roll center
-Sprngs
-Camber
-Rear toe
All of these could fix your problem, crazy as it sounds, I'd try to reduce the rear toe first, as long as the diff "feel" is smooth.
**I also changed out the black o-rings to the clear ones in the new shocks, much better.
05-06-2013, 03:38 PM
#5511
05-06-2013, 11:45 PM
#5515
Hey, Ed
I saw some Awesomatix setup's from you not even a year old on petit rc!? How come you switched to Serpent?
I'm interested since the majority of guys around here are mad to get the A700 ... it suppose to be the ''dream car''
Lojz
I saw some Awesomatix setup's from you not even a year old on petit rc!? How come you switched to Serpent?
I'm interested since the majority of guys around here are mad to get the A700 ... it suppose to be the ''dream car''
Lojz
05-07-2013, 02:37 PM
#5517
Hi Pete, not avoiding the question, just really out of the scope of anything I run. I'm a 64P guy myself, so no use there. Motor wise 10.5 and boosted are something I don't run, and I'd be totally guessing to give you a FDR for that. Boosted is one of those things you have to do to be able to give any kind of legitimate advise. If you where running a non-boosted 10.5, the usual start FDR for that is around 5.5ish to 6ish, but adding boost to it and you'll probably need to adjust for that.
Hopefully someone else that runs closer to what your doing will chime in.
Hopefully someone else that runs closer to what your doing will chime in.
05-07-2013, 02:44 PM
#5518
I did run 10.5 boosted for a while, but not on a track anywhere near that size. I agree with Gary, you will probably want to start around 6ish. However, you may not be able to fit the correct ratios in with an 84T spur. You might want to pick up something closer to 78T.
05-07-2013, 04:01 PM
#5519
Hence, as I like to be a little bit different, I picked up the Serpent. Its taken a bit of time, although a lot of that os geting used to only runnin mod, but I am very happy with my choice. Also helps there is a small helpful team of guys around, both here on this thread, and direct contacts at Serpent, to discuss ideas with.
On another random point. I actually suggested to Chris Kerswell (uk serpent driver) to give the one piece rear block a try at the brca may this past weekend... He and the rest of the team ended up running it for the rest of the weekend
Confirmed my finding that it does give more steering, but without making the rear too loose.
05-07-2013, 05:24 PM
#5520
On another random point. I actually suggested to Chris Kerswell (uk serpent driver) to give the one piece rear block a try at the brca may this past weekend... He and the rest of the team ended up running it for the rest of the weekend Confirmed my finding that it does give more steering, but without making the rear too loose.
Confirmed my finding that it does give more steering, but without making the rear too loose.