16LikesSerpent S411
01-01-2013, 01:57 PM
#4892
01-01-2013, 04:12 PM
#4894
48 p
i have measured 48P 69 tooth to be very close to 96 tooth 64P.
I have them ordered and will let you know how it fits by thursday.
The reason i want 48P is easier to set mesh and 48P can handle a little carpet fuzz with less issues.
Mike
I have them ordered and will let you know how it fits by thursday.
The reason i want 48P is easier to set mesh and 48P can handle a little carpet fuzz with less issues.
Mike
01-01-2013, 05:04 PM
#4895
Hey guys I'm new to the serpent worlds have owned several other touring. Cars but got a heck if a deal on a serpent and its one of the only brands I haven't driven so I figured I would give it a try .does anyone know of a good site to look for a good basic setup for a high bite carpet /ozite track . All I have found is older setups and I'm just wondering if there is any up to date ones .. Thanks in advance
I run 64p 90 tooth, but I can tell you that without knowing what your running for a motor, speed control and how much motor timing you run and the size of the track, giving you a pinion size is pretty useless. A good all around starting fdr is 4.0, watch your temps and re-gear as required.
Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 01-01-2013 at 05:58 PM.
01-01-2013, 05:13 PM
#4896
Stock Servo mount mod
.
Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 01-01-2013 at 05:37 PM.
01-01-2013, 06:02 PM
#4897
I run 64p 90 tooth, but I can tell you that without knowing what your running for a motor, speed control and how much motor timing you run and the size of the track, giving you a pinion size is pretty useless. A good all around starting fdr is 4.0, watch your temps and re-gear as required.
01-01-2013, 06:18 PM
#4898
for 17.5 blinky i have 96-100 in car. 47-55 pinions seem to fit. 64p obviously. 47? weird eh. thats a ratio 4.22 but im trying it with a high rpm rotor to see how it stacks with the higher torque motors like the d3.5.
Have the stock rotor too, but from testing at our last indoor night, the power band was easier to handle. less likely to rip the ass end aruond exiting corners and had more top end rip on the straight.
3.6-4.0 seems the norm for this class. 3.8 seemed pretty lazy though. fast..but i tend to slow down for corners to save my tires. drive a shorter line if possible.
Have the stock rotor too, but from testing at our last indoor night, the power band was easier to handle. less likely to rip the ass end aruond exiting corners and had more top end rip on the straight.
3.6-4.0 seems the norm for this class. 3.8 seemed pretty lazy though. fast..but i tend to slow down for corners to save my tires. drive a shorter line if possible.
01-01-2013, 11:11 PM
#4899
So, tonight I had a little play around with the steering rack on my car. Given the talk of using FF steering posts recently to lower the rack a little, I had a thought that with the space on the car, possibly it could be lower still, opening up some more options for tuning the bump steer.
The pics show what I ended up with. Flipping the bellcranks (to the original 411 style) and servo post, and then using a 1.5mm shim underneath, the whole rack has dropped about 2.5mm.
With the standard TE rack install, the cross brace is about 11mm off the chassis (pic shows 11.5 ish, but the angle is off), whilst the lowered rack is 8.5mm. Only special parts I needed was a standard nut on the forward screw of the servo mount (third pic), and to trim a little material off the battery brace for full lock. I will also trim down the servo posts for clearance of the servo tie-rod. Clearance is fine, no issues with catching the belt at all
With that setup, running 2.5mm shims on the steering hub gives the same bumpsteer setting as kit, but also means less can be run as well... hopefully will get to try this out this weekend Might need a slight tweak to the ackerman spacers as well though, as a lower outer ball joint will move slightly forward (steering hub is at 4° due to castor), will have a play around with it if I get the chance.
Regards
Ed
The pics show what I ended up with. Flipping the bellcranks (to the original 411 style) and servo post, and then using a 1.5mm shim underneath, the whole rack has dropped about 2.5mm.
With the standard TE rack install, the cross brace is about 11mm off the chassis (pic shows 11.5 ish, but the angle is off), whilst the lowered rack is 8.5mm. Only special parts I needed was a standard nut on the forward screw of the servo mount (third pic), and to trim a little material off the battery brace for full lock. I will also trim down the servo posts for clearance of the servo tie-rod. Clearance is fine, no issues with catching the belt at all
With that setup, running 2.5mm shims on the steering hub gives the same bumpsteer setting as kit, but also means less can be run as well... hopefully will get to try this out this weekend
Might need a slight tweak to the ackerman spacers as well though, as a lower outer ball joint will move slightly forward (steering hub is at 4° due to castor), will have a play around with it if I get the chance.Regards
Ed
01-02-2013, 01:13 AM
#4900
Standard TE ones, although these are now cut short so I can't flip them back. Everything else is lowered as well, as I've flipped the bell cranks (back to the way up the original 411 v1 steering had them), so the deeper section is at the bottom. This is why I only have 1mm under the 'flipped' posts.
HiH
Ed
HiH
Ed
01-02-2013, 01:20 AM
#4901
Tech Rookie
@jimjav
hi! Javier,
if you use Xray diff you only have to dremel it a little bit and it fits perfect.
ok, I know, it is not Serpent original spare part... but it works and, I know it, the diff is muche more expensive than Serpentīs... but the weight is 15gr less...
hi! Javier,
if you use Xray diff you only have to dremel it a little bit and it fits perfect.
ok, I know, it is not Serpent original spare part... but it works and, I know it, the diff is muche more expensive than Serpentīs... but the weight is 15gr less...
Thanks.