Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I was running the med parts on the car when I ripped that side off. The only deal with the hard parts are they are really hard and that can bite you sometimes where a med might survive that first hit a little better.

No matter which rack you run, you'll have to run some extra shims and washers to tighten it up a bit. I found that the old armature shims from the brushed motor days and a couple of the xray shock washers will tighten the rack pretty good. Something to watch out for with any of the racks, is when you get them tightened up, make sure that counter sunk screw that holds the drag link to the servo is up in the rack so it sits flush with the rack or it will cause bind issues when the rack moves back and forth. Both the V1 and V2 use the same bearings and are pressed in so neither one is better than the other as far as stock slop goes.

pcar951

iTrader: (23)

My question with the v2 rack is, can you add back in enough Ackerman to make the steering as buttery as the V1. Yes, a little more mid and exit would be nice but, others have identified that there was no advantage in lap times.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

How many mm of shims are you guys liking under the arm blocks for 17.5 stock? I ran 1mm under the rear blocks, and 0mm under the fronts. The front of the car was really smooth but I would've liked a bit more bite. Also, 15.5 front/13.5 rear Reflex springs seemed to work really well at our track (low/med carpet).

NUCRPTRACER --- Did you mention the 200mph zip-tie you had on there?

rdlkgliders

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for all the setup tips guys, I had a good day with the setup. I didn't tweek much at all. I just changed my driving style a little.

NUCRPTRACER

iTrader: (7)

Well it helped take the stress off myself worring about the longer screw coming out after a small tap..it probably would have held but I drove like a sissy in the c main...in my defense I was in the lead until someone knocked the wing off the car after that game over..

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I run .5 or 1mm under all the blocks, using either black/grey springs or grey/grey.

What are you running for shock oil and droop settings?

Bite in the front?

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I find entrance in they both feel the same, just mid and corner exit feels better with the V2 on 2 shims, flipped arms. Not sure what the buttery feel is, you may have to explain more of what you're looking for.

FastHound

Listen to this! My first run on Saturday with my 411 and the screw hung on the rack damaging the servo beyond repair. Thankfully, I had packed a spare. Not a great one, but a spare. This was after the driveline was all bound up due to a bad front hub bearing. Big thanks to NUCRPTRACER for a good bearing! Help and generosity like this is what makes RC racing so great and our local track, R/Car, a class facility. Also, I was on motor #2 by heat race #1.

What I can say good is my first experience with the Serpent was excellent. I have never had such a stable car so easy to drive. The bite in the track came up quick making the kit setup pretty good. I was ready to tighten up the car with bar changes and more rear toe, but it just didn't need it. During heat 2 I lost bite with 2 minutes to go but I believe this was soft tires overheating. Although, when the car started to lose bite it stayed completely neutral. I am impressed and very excited to put more time into testing to make this car even better.

Thanks also to cwoods34 for the help on Saturday!

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

50 front, 40 rear, 3-hole all around.... droop at 1.5 front/2 rear. It's hard to say exactly what I was looking for, because the car was pretty close. I ran the spool after the first round and found it a bit faster on the layout, but I think I will try a front gear diff (500k, 4gears). Part of it was also me still learning the car, so the setup was a little bit conservative

NUCRPTRACER

iTrader: (7)

I ordered another 2.25 chassis but has anyone had any luck with the 2.5 on carpet? I was under the impression that was the stock chassis?

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

That was the stock chassis on the original S411 before the LE came out. I used the 2.5 before on asphalt, and liked it so I would think it would work fine on carpet too. When I have the need to buy a new chassis, then I will be buying another 2.5.


Steve

BAD007SUZUKI

iTrader: (97)

I HAVE 2 CARS BUILT, ONE WITH THE 2MM CHASSIS AND THE FLEXY DECK. THE OTHER WITH THE 2.5 AND A HYBRID DECK I CUT MYSELF. ITS KINDA IN BETWEEN THE STOCK DECK AND THE FLEXY. CONSISTENCY WISE, I LIKE THE "FIRMER" SETUP. THE FLEXY SETUP CAR TENDS TO HEAT TIRES UP AND I FIND MYSELF OVER DRIVING THE CAR.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

This is like you guys where watching everything I played with at the track today. I ran 3 cars, a 2.5, 2.25 and a 2.0 chassis. If I had to pick for carpet I would run a 2.25 chassis with a stock upper deck, or a modified upper deck, this produced the most consistent and actually fastest combo. The 2.5 felt pretty good as well but a little more twitchy, I believe due to the stiffer car setup, and changing the top deck really didn't change the car. The 2.0 car just felt too dead, it had good corner speed but it just wasn't there....yet. I think the 2.0 will need some more track time, maybe some combos of hard and med parts and the stiffer upper deck. If anything it almost felt like the car was too stuck in the back.

I can't say for certain as I haven't seen a new out of bag 2.50 chassis, but the ones I have have the little bump outs for the battery bumps and the chassis are the width of the bumps wider on the other side for a overall wider chassis compared to the 2.25 and the 2.0.

Martin Crisp

After the snowbirds race I decided to try some new ideas on the setup that would have been too risky to try in the dwindling rounds of qualifying. The result is a setup that is quicker by about 1 to 2 tenths, than what I ran at the birds. The key changes were to
1) add the hard plastic arms
2) use a thicker rear diff oil (dot 3 yokomo - similar to perhaps a 2500 to 3000 cst is my best guess)
3) reduce the number of spacers on the v2 steering from 2mm to 1mm
4) use the yokomo pink springs for the front and yokomo blue springs for the rear.
5) Very minor roll center changes, that would be tuned to the grip level of the track...but I ended up with a very minor 0.5mm added shim to the front inboard upper link and a very minor 0.5mm added shim to the rear inboard upper link.

Here is the link to the setup

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

Hi martin thanks for the number 2 block, owe you a coffee, can you please give me the part numbers for the yokmo pink and yellow springs, when i google it a bunch of springs show up thanks