16LikesSerpent S411
02-02-2012, 09:04 AM
#2701
Tech Apprentice
02-02-2012, 02:07 PM
#2702
Improved gear diff sounds sweet.
RCM shocks...why I've built almost every dampener known to RC and I would have to say these are by far my favorite, I would have to see an improvement on the clock or some really outstanding improvement in traction before switching. They are so easy to get the same every time. Very easy to change oil at the track, no waiting for the aeration to go away… Maybe I’m missing something.
RCM shocks...why I've built almost every dampener known to RC and I would have to say these are by far my favorite, I would have to see an improvement on the clock or some really outstanding improvement in traction before switching. They are so easy to get the same every time. Very easy to change oil at the track, no waiting for the aeration to go away… Maybe I’m missing something.
BTW, I had the same burr situation on one shock shaft.
just have to keep an eye on the blades a bit more. i think also what it can do is wear out the plastic eccentric, and the diff housing from the wobble.
As far as the setup, its on the serpent site, Patto Australia. but this isnt a technical track, its a fairly open and fast big track. was the old 8th scale gas track from a few years ago.
As far as the setup, its on the serpent site, Patto Australia. but this isnt a technical track, its a fairly open and fast big track. was the old 8th scale gas track from a few years ago.
I just recently completed a race. One thing that I ended up doing to save some time and fumbling in the pits was to replace the 4mm spacers under the front rear suspension bridge with some 3mm spacers. This way if you go for the least amount of rc adjustment your already there, but if you want to increase the rc, you can just use the long shims instead of fighting with the small spacers and screws on the front/rear mount. Loosen a couple screws and slide in the shim and your done.
It might sound like a no brainer but it sure makes the job easier to do.
Another thing I did to the car. After reading a couple of posts from the guy that was putting foil over the front outdrives and running some grease. I decided to do it a little differently. I just use some shrink wrap on the outdrives. Pack a little black grease in them and run them that way. There is no pin bind for in and out movement and virtually no grease thrown all over the place on the car.
Ran the entire week with the top plate/set screw mod that James mentioned and had absolutely no spur gear issues using 64p gears.
If you're running on carpet the kit shock oil is a little on the lite side, start with 450 and up, the car will feel a lot more planted. When its too light the car actually reacts like a real car with worn out shocks which translates to a loose feel on power. Also Martins use of the black/grey spring combo seems to be a nice start point.
02-03-2012, 05:51 AM
#2703
02-03-2012, 06:04 AM
#2704
I wonder if the demand for RCM shocks was so a true 0 rebound shock could be made.
Sometimes its using the right tool for the job. Snap ring pliers are one of those tools that buying cheap just means you'll be buying again, I have a tool box full of those, last pair I bought where over $50 dollars, but they haven't failed me yet on any snapring job, just saying.
BTW, I had the same burr situation on one shock shaft.
Sometimes its using the right tool for the job. Snap ring pliers are one of those tools that buying cheap just means you'll be buying again, I have a tool box full of those, last pair I bought where over $50 dollars, but they haven't failed me yet on any snapring job, just saying.
BTW, I had the same burr situation on one shock shaft.
Please post the link for the snap rings pliers you used, because when you compress the eyelets inward they touch each other before you can remove them
I hate these F@@Kin' shocks can't wait until the new shock are released.
02-03-2012, 06:12 AM
#2705
Tech Apprentice
02-03-2012, 08:55 AM
#2707
The LE does not come with a servo saver. If your going to use one you'll have to either space the servo up about 1mm or put a relief into the servo plate. I used a sanding drum and did the relief. The reason for this was that even with the 1mm spacers every once in a while the servo will drop just enough to drag on the servo saver, you'll have all kinds of weird steering problems till you find that problem. I use the xray 4 spring saver, it has a very solid feel to it.
02-03-2012, 09:47 AM
#2709
pouched one gear, now it sits waiting for a replacement. No reflection on the servo, just the car is better off with the servo saver.When you get your car, make sure you go to the Serpents member forum and tell us what serial number you got. (Hopefully the spam will get cleaned up shortly)
02-03-2012, 12:19 PM
#2711
-Mike
02-03-2012, 04:12 PM
#2712
I run on high grip carpet, would the 2mm top deck be better then the kit version, or the thicker one is better, and anyone try a steering brace to stiffen the front up, the top racing one is a perfect fit , I was going to try the 2mm top deck with the steering brace and see how it works, and as for shocks kyosho tf6 ones are a direct fit with 0 rebound, best shocks i must say, even better then trf ones, I found the stock shocks not that nice so switched to the kyosho myself, sold my le. as I like the look of the original a little better, but now that i think about it the anodized red shocks would look better on the orange.
02-03-2012, 10:07 PM
#2714
For those that want to know, the stock steering rack is 11.5mm center to center, the V2 is 9.5. 
