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Old 12-16-2011, 06:07 AM
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Hi

Can anyone tell me what to do with the stock 411 so it doesnt get twisted. All i have heardfrom have big problem with a twisted car , also without even have runned on a track , sounds like a factory failure
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:14 AM
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What do you mean that it tweaked from the box ? This is the first I have heard of this.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by HB-forever View Post
Hi

Can anyone tell me what to do with the stock 411 so it doesnt get twisted. All i have heardfrom have big problem with a twisted car , also without even have runned on a track , sounds like a factory failure
Mine was perfect out of the box??
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mattwoodcraft View Post
What do you mean that it tweaked from the box ? This is the first I have heard of this.
Yes , so much as 5mm the chassis is lifted from the ground , when they put the top plate on
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by HB-forever View Post
Yes , so much as 5mm the chassis is lifted from the ground , when they put the top plate on
No problems here . It went together perfect and its easy to drive . absolutely nothing wrong with mine .
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by corallyman View Post
Martin,

The hinge pin block in the front lays down flat against the chassis. The rearward block for the front of the car is flipped upside down. This is done for belt clearance. So you need 3mm shim under the rear front block if nothing is under the front front block. This would create the lowest hingepin and it would be flat. If you were to put a 1mm under the Front, front block and still want a level hingepin then you would need 4mm under the rear front block. So when he put 4.5 under the rear, if he also had 1mm under the front then he had .5mm anti-dive. Does that make sense?

Steve
I wondered if that was what was going on...just like my old tamiya 416. Thanks Steve for this info and your comments above. Cheers mate.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Akhor View Post
I think jonny wishbone said this gives you more chassis flex and more tuning adjustabileity. It should be a nice addition.

FYI, I may be at the track next Wednesday and have just received a 3.5 rear block I was going to install. If you want to give it a try first your more then welcome, as I know your much more consistent than I am.. Any how let me know.
Thanks, I just ordered some 3.5 mounts for my cars they should be here early next week.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by HB-forever View Post
Hi

Can anyone tell me what to do with the stock 411 so it doesnt get twisted. All i have heardfrom have big problem with a twisted car , also without even have runned on a track , sounds like a factory failure
Make sure the top plate is notched correctly for the idler pulley. There have been some reports of material hanging up the beraing holders and interfering with the top plate which could cause chassis tweak.

The one piece will allow you to run the top deck without the center screw and seems to give the car better rotation and rear traction. It can be used in combination with the the 2 pce center section so you can actually get 3 options for rear chassis stiffness.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
I wondered if that was what was going on...just like my old tamiya 416. Thanks Steve for this info and your comments above. Cheers mate.

Yes Martin, same as Tamiya suspension bridges, flipped front/rear 1 piece unit. By the way the Tamiya suspension bridges WILL NOT work with the S411. Thought you might have some spares kicking around, lol.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
Yes Martin, same as Tamiya suspension bridges, flipped front/rear 1 piece unit. By the way the Tamiya suspension bridges WILL NOT work with the S411. Thought you might have some spares kicking around, lol.
lol!

have you tried other bell cranks or steering knuckles to enable more ackerman adjustments?
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Martin Crisp View Post
lol!

have you tried other bell cranks or steering knuckles to enable more ackerman adjustments?
I have run Xray steering knuckles which have given similar feel to the stock ones. I have been trying to keep the car as stock as possible to give better feedback on setup for kit supplied parts. I have also heard that Serpent is working on a new steering rack with more ackerman adjustments, I think its suppose to be out in the next couple months.

Speaking of the steering rack, be careful of the pushed in bearings. I haven't had this issue but others have stated that the bearings are loosely fitted and will "walk" the rack up off the bearings when running the car. the fix has been to glue the bearings in or run a larger washer over the bearing to keep the rack down. I'm not sure if this is caused by the bearing being tilted a little when being pressed in, again, I have no issues with mine yet.
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Old 12-16-2011, 05:58 PM
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#189 in el paso on the work bench. merry xmas. thank you serpent.
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Old 12-16-2011, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
I have run Xray steering knuckles which have given similar feel to the stock ones. I have been trying to keep the car as stock as possible to give better feedback on setup for kit supplied parts. I have also heard that Serpent is working on a new steering rack with more ackerman adjustments, I think its suppose to be out in the next couple months.

Speaking of the steering rack, be careful of the pushed in bearings. I haven't had this issue but others have stated that the bearings are loosely fitted and will "walk" the rack up off the bearings when running the car. the fix has been to glue the bearings in or run a larger washer over the bearing to keep the rack down. I'm not sure if this is caused by the bearing being tilted a little when being pressed in, again, I have no issues with mine yet.
ya, I CA all the steering rack bearings.... it seems to fit quite loosely.... After the CA everything is nice and smooth.... for the chassis as I had a few different chassis in different thickness for testing... Almost all of them are slightly twisted even before I mount anything on it..... One of the worst one is the one that came with my kit. Before I even CA the edge I place it on my setup board with the rear end flat on the board. The Front is around 4mm twisted...... And the other 2 chassis I got when I purchase the kit were twisted too...... It got so bad I was checking my setup board and make sure it is not twisted....
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gpm-parts.com View Post
ya, I CA all the steering rack bearings.... it seems to fit quite loosely.... After the CA everything is nice and smooth.... for the chassis as I had a few different chassis in different thickness for testing... Almost all of them are slightly twisted even before I mount anything on it..... One of the worst one is the one that came with my kit. Before I even CA the edge I place it on my setup board with the rear end flat on the board. The Front is around 4mm twisted...... And the other 2 chassis I got when I purchase the kit were twisted too...... It got so bad I was checking my setup board and make sure it is not twisted....
This is very strange, the 2 chassis I have are both flat. This will sound funny but if you can find two small bricks, that are flat so you could sandwich the chassis between the two bricks and put in your oven for about 20 minutes at 350* and then let it cool still in the oven, just turn it off and leave it, you might get the twist out of it. Just make sure nothing catches on fire and your wife or mom doesn't catch you, lol.

I can't guarantee that this will fix your problem, but it shouldn't hurt it. If anything the twist is usually caused during the cooling time.
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Old 12-16-2011, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gpm-parts.com View Post
ya, I CA all the steering rack bearings.... it seems to fit quite loosely.... After the CA everything is nice and smooth.... for the chassis as I had a few different chassis in different thickness for testing... Almost all of them are slightly twisted even before I mount anything on it..... One of the worst one is the one that came with my kit. Before I even CA the edge I place it on my setup board with the rear end flat on the board. The Front is around 4mm twisted...... And the other 2 chassis I got when I purchase the kit were twisted too...... It got so bad I was checking my setup board and make sure it is not twisted....
get a hold of serpent.. if these are new you need to contact them and let them know.. the 2 i just got in where flat a flat could be.. email and telly # is on there main page.. jeremy

http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/home.php
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