Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Best to post your setup sheet so we can look at what you have to start with.

S.A.W

I started with this http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...ot20110703.pdf apart from I used 2.25mm chassis and standard top deck, 1 deg toe out on the front and 4 droop rear.

I then tried those other settings I posted earlier and I also tried 4 droop front.

I found the car very hard to drive and get the power down out of the corners without it spinning out. it feels good a high speed, stable and easy on the sweepers but infield was a nightmare.

S.A.W

Looking at the 'Basic asphalt setup' it shows a 1mm shim on the rear bulkhead if you use that then the ball joint thread is too long and catches the blade on the driveshaft

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

You can either file the ball stud down a bit or raise the outer up instead, they are just about the same effect, angle of upper link compared to lower arm. Or leave the upper inner spacer and change the lower arm spacers to the .5 or out completely.

I think your going the right direction with the rc settings. I would be tempted to even moving the outer upper link to the outer hole, but thats a real personal feel deal. For your setup I would go back to a basic droop setting of 6 in the front and 5 in the back and then possibly take just a little rear droop out of the car or add a little droop to the front of the car, just to get a touch more weight transfer to the rear of the car. Either reduce the thickness of the rear bar or remove it completely. Also go to the xray 2.4 rear spring or go up to the 3.0 front spring, I would do the the 2.4 and possibly move it down one position in the shock tower.

Team_Elli

hi there i had the same problems with the rear end going all over the place on med.traction carpet, but from of basic setup here is what i have done to calm down the rear end and lock it up more at on power i -extended the wheel base at rear with 1mm shim
-changed the rear toe in block to 3.5
-swaped out the springs to MR33 springs Purple front and red rear. Much better driving feeling with those.
-1.2 mm rear sway bar.
-450W shock oil and Xceed 2000 Gear diff oil two gear setup.
-Ride hight is 5mm front and 5,5 rear and droop 6 front and 5 rear.
the car is on rails now only thing i am doing to tune the grip with now is traction additive but going to play with the linkage setup from now on and out

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

If your running on a tight carpet track, try .3mm anti-dive as well.

Is there a link to the MR33 springs with chart?

Thanks

damage

Anyone running the 2.25mm chassis on carpet?

S.A.W

I'm going to try the 'base setup' and go from there. What is everyone using in their geardiff, 2 or 4 gears and what oil, 2000 ? for low/medium grip asphalt.

Does thicker oil in the geardiff make the rear slower to rotate ? may help with it spinning out ?

Thanks.

hacker

iTrader: (141)

it seems to be heavier oil(like a tight rear ball diff) will make the car to tend to push, and a lighter oil will make the car square off or rotate better.

I have not played with diff oils yet, but my next test day will be of 900cst, 2k, 3k, & more if needed.

I'm going to set my car up to understeer massively, and bring the car under control around corners with drag brake. Not the ideal solution to driving a TC, but seems this will be needed with this tail happy snaky rear end of the s411.....

dameetz

Hmmmm....I keep on reading about this car's very loose rear end, its getting me nervous now, I ll be receiving my car this week, hopefully I can finish building and test it by this weekend. Hopefully the loose rear thing will not be as bad coz I m coming from Yok BD5WR where the rear is grippy but I can't get enough steering from it (that's why I sold it). What tyres are eveyrone using here?

Xray-Goon

You could always do the sensible thing and come back to Xray.

It did look a handful out there and you were way of the pace.

hacker

iTrader: (141)

yeh like I have said previously, I don't know what drugs the guy at serpent was on releasing a car with a setup per kit.

The kit setup is completely un-driveable.

I know.....yeh yeh you set the car up to your track conditions, driving style.....but it's way off, it's not funny.

Team_Elli

It's like with EVERY car you need to work with the setup to get it to your liking so whats the problem then if the kit set up is all wrong? i like a challange like this because i'm not a lazy b*** that likes everything given to me in my hands. You get to know the car better and you learn how it reacts to setup input and etc...

S.A.W

I'll persevere a little longer otherwise I'll change back. It was great a speed but thorugh the slower sections it was awfull to drive especially out of the corner. But wasn't the best track condtions for testing a new car.

Team_Elli

try to look at www.Tonisport.de for the info on MR33, for some info. by chart you mean Lb/inch messurement? i am runnig the ride springs wich is basicly the same just different package
how did you get 0.3mm anti-dive if may ask?