Novak GTX
#527

Well, the first time I tried it, I did just what the manual said and it worked. The second time I tried it, it worked as well.
I've bumped into a few guys at the track and done it for them as well. I don't know, some buys get it right away, others don't. We're talking about a difference of 5-10 seconds between the quick tap and the hold procedure.
Sorry I can't be of more help here, maybe get it all setup and give me a call. I'll set one up and we can walk through it.
Schottky Diodes always help. It's technically speaking "best" to have them installed on the motor. A schottky stops the voltage the motor generates ANYTIME it free spins (When ever you let off) from heating up internals of the ESC.
Power Caps are there to help dissipate the "Ripple" current effect generated by the Switching Rates of the ESC. Bigger is generally better.
I've bumped into a few guys at the track and done it for them as well. I don't know, some buys get it right away, others don't. We're talking about a difference of 5-10 seconds between the quick tap and the hold procedure.
Sorry I can't be of more help here, maybe get it all setup and give me a call. I'll set one up and we can walk through it.
Schottky Diodes always help. It's technically speaking "best" to have them installed on the motor. A schottky stops the voltage the motor generates ANYTIME it free spins (When ever you let off) from heating up internals of the ESC.
Power Caps are there to help dissipate the "Ripple" current effect generated by the Switching Rates of the ESC. Bigger is generally better.
#528

Charlie : Sorry, quick question..... why my GT7 sparks big time whenever I connect the cable to battery. The spark is pretty loud. Is this normal for all GT7 ? because my GTX doesn't do that.
Oh yeah.... I'm novak loyalist........ , I have 2 GTX, 1 GT7, 1 Cyclone TC, and all the way back to 1995 Novak Duster 2, heheheh
Oh yeah.... I'm novak loyalist........ , I have 2 GTX, 1 GT7, 1 Cyclone TC, and all the way back to 1995 Novak Duster 2, heheheh

#529

The spark is usually the just the cap charging. Most ESCs with power caps will arc slightly when the power is initially connected.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#530

Seems like I've got a problem with my gtx. On initail acceleration, it stutters a few times ( varies from time to time ) then goes to full acceleration. Thought it was the battey pack, but changed pack and it does the same thing as before. I've also checked all the wires, could it be the capacitor that's on the speed controller.
Sorry for all the questions, only very new to electric.
Sorry for all the questions, only very new to electric.
#532

I had similar problem like that in my GT7, Opened tha case up & cleaned/flushed it with contact cleaner, Seems ok now.

#533

thanks for the replies guys. Will try your suggestion.
#534

Need Help .I have a GTX and was wandering if any one has struck a problem with there speedy losing performance in the second half of a days racing .At first i thought it was batteries or Motors but it has done the same thing with differant batteries and motors now for about 4 meets .Funny thing is it is ok again the next week until you get half way through the day .Any ideas would be greatly appreciated
#535

That sounds pretty weird. I haven't come across that problem, I have never heard of that happening to anyone else's either. If the performance just dropped off I would suggest checking the solder connections on the power capacitor because if they come lose the ESC will run hot and feel sluggish. But if you say it feels good the next week well I'm not sure what to say.
Maybe if your racing in hot conditions and the ESC isn't getting very good air-flow and your running low turn Mod motors it may be overheating and that may cause it to go off. I run low turn mods all the time and have never overheated my GTX's but they do get good air-flow. I would consider running and Novak or MuchMore 25x25mm fan above the ESC and see if cooling is what it needs. Maybe try running a different profile.
Other than that, try to borrow another ESC, preferably a GTX and see if it has the same symptoms.
Contact Novak, I'm sure they can help or steer you in the right direction.
Maybe if your racing in hot conditions and the ESC isn't getting very good air-flow and your running low turn Mod motors it may be overheating and that may cause it to go off. I run low turn mods all the time and have never overheated my GTX's but they do get good air-flow. I would consider running and Novak or MuchMore 25x25mm fan above the ESC and see if cooling is what it needs. Maybe try running a different profile.
Other than that, try to borrow another ESC, preferably a GTX and see if it has the same symptoms.
Contact Novak, I'm sure they can help or steer you in the right direction.
#536

Got question about GTX MOSFET
From Novak GTX website :
"*Due to the unique nature and advanced technology of the GTX's MOSFETs, the MOSFET manufacturer has changed the current rating from 150 amps to 700 amps and braking current rating from 60 amps to 300 amps."
How do I know I get the latest MOSFET ( 700 amps ) ?
From Novak GTX website :
"*Due to the unique nature and advanced technology of the GTX's MOSFETs, the MOSFET manufacturer has changed the current rating from 150 amps to 700 amps and braking current rating from 60 amps to 300 amps."
How do I know I get the latest MOSFET ( 700 amps ) ?
#537

Hi guys, got a question
i just got my gtx afew days ago, brand new. used the one-touch programming to set it up to my sanwa super exzes transmitter and after that's done i noticed i was hitting full throttle (indicated by the solid green light) when my transmitter stick was only at half throttle!! everything else was fine, eg solid red light at neutral, flashing green at full brakes.. tried performing the one-touch programme afew more times, but it didn't help.
is this normal?! is it just a matter of changing transmitter settings? (which btw were all reset to default prior to setting up esc)
any help would be greatly appreciated!
i just got my gtx afew days ago, brand new. used the one-touch programming to set it up to my sanwa super exzes transmitter and after that's done i noticed i was hitting full throttle (indicated by the solid green light) when my transmitter stick was only at half throttle!! everything else was fine, eg solid red light at neutral, flashing green at full brakes.. tried performing the one-touch programme afew more times, but it didn't help.
is this normal?! is it just a matter of changing transmitter settings? (which btw were all reset to default prior to setting up esc)
any help would be greatly appreciated!
#538

zipp,
That almost sounds like your transmitter is hitting full throttle at half stick... an easy way to check is to unplug the GTX, then plug a servo into the throttle channel of the receiver and plug a small 4 cell receiver battery in. Check to see if the servo moves throughout the throttle stick stroke, or if it reaches its full movement at half stick like your GTX is doing.
IF the servo stops moving at half stick, your transmitter is likely out of calibration.
D
That almost sounds like your transmitter is hitting full throttle at half stick... an easy way to check is to unplug the GTX, then plug a servo into the throttle channel of the receiver and plug a small 4 cell receiver battery in. Check to see if the servo moves throughout the throttle stick stroke, or if it reaches its full movement at half stick like your GTX is doing.
IF the servo stops moving at half stick, your transmitter is likely out of calibration.
D
#539
Tech Master

Or just reverse the steering servo and the ESC on the receiver plugs and check it that way.
#540

trips, it was exactly like u said, servo stopped moving somewhere around half throttle. i also noticed full brakes moved the servo a tad more than full throttle, so my guess is that the throttle part is like u said, out of calibration.
should i just send it to the LHS or fix it myself?
thanks for the help
should i just send it to the LHS or fix it myself?
thanks for the help