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Old 08-14-2004, 05:36 PM   #31
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Default Soldering Iron

Make sure you get a good, quality iron. Don't be afraid to spend a little more for something like a Hakko Iron from Stormer Hobbies. It'll make learning how to solder a lot easier.

As for batteries, take a look at Hurricane Motorsports' web special. 3 packs for 99 bucks, and these are very good cells, and probably the same price as a lot of "sport" packs, if not cheaper.

As for pinion gears, it doesn't hurt to buy some sort of pack like RRP has, you'll probably end up using most of the pinions you buy. Just make sure you buy 48 pitch.

As for tire foams, it probably wont matter what foams you use, since those tires probably won't end up being used in competitive racing. At some point you'll end up buying slicks, like the take-off cs27's.
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Old 08-14-2004, 06:07 PM   #32
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Default Re: Soldering Iron

Quote:
Originally posted by 071crazy
Make 1sure you get a good, quality iron. Don't be afraid to spend a little more for something like a Hakko Iron from Stormer Hobbies. It'll make learning how to solder a lot easier.

As for batteries, take a look at Hurricane Motorsports' web special. 3 packs for 99 bucks, and these are very good cells, and probably the same price as a lot of "sport" packs, if not cheaper.

As for pinion gears, it doesn't hurt to buy some sort of pack like RRP has, you'll probably end up using most of the pinions you buy. Just make sure you buy 48 pitch.

As for tire foams, it probably wont matter what foams you use, since those tires probably won't end up being used in competitive racing. At some point you'll end up buying slicks, like the take-off cs27's.
Well said!

And now to the guy with all the questions; remember that RC, set-ups especially, are like cooking recipes [ask the local track racers what they are "doing" to get a starting baseline and] you will develope your own recipe for quicker lap times - nothing beats a "clean lap" or "finishing" in newbie/rookie classes by the way]. I was a "builder and tweaker" until my sons got interested. And now, I'm the only one left [of the three], gaining knowledge enough to, and "getting up to the big boy" table.

You ARE getting good, knowledgble scoop from everone thus far.

^5
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Old 08-14-2004, 08:59 PM   #33
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Where will you be racing at? Have you stoppd by and watched the races and asked questions around the track? If not I suggest you do so. If they run rubber tires they will tell you about the proper gear ratio (probably "FINAL DRIVE RATIO") with this the way to find out your pinion needs is to take the number they give you (let's say 7.5) and divide it by you internal transmission ratio (1.77 for the T1 FK) to get your spur pinion ratio (4.24 in this case)..... Now you take your spur gear size (93 in your case) and divide by the spur/pinion ratio (4.24) to get your pinion gear size...... 21.9 rounded to the closest whole you would need a 22 pinion......... so I would say start with a minimum of sizes 19-24...... Remember these numbers are just a senerionot actual....

So to find the pinion you need the equation is FDR/1.77=S-PR, then spur size/S-PR=pinion


also I would get a 90T spur and a 96T spur to complement the pinions and greatly increase your available gear ratios.....Once you start racing you will get a much better feel for the gears you will need......


If they run foams then check back for another equation because it will require a more indepth answer.....

For batteries goto www.promatchracing.com they will sell matched racing cells and will assemble them in saddle pack form for you..... IMHO right now they should be your only option until you learn how to properly solder cells.......


Go with the Monster stock, I haven't seen one that was "off" out of the box..... I would personnally order one from Fantom.... I have never got a slow one from them..... They can be order from www.stormerhobbies.com

Order a spare diff for your car, it comes with a front one-way, but a front diff is easier to drive especially when you are learning.....

More later
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Old 08-15-2004, 10:43 AM   #34
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I ordered the 3 pack from Hurricane Racing, and I'll probably get a saddle pack from promatchracing just to get started with until I get the soldering skill perfected.

I went to the www.balkracing.com site to use their demo of how to make battery packs. It's good but not good enough for me, I guess because I'm new to soldering also. Does anyone else know a site that has a good demonstration of how to do this?

I'm sure I'll need accessories to build these packs, the tray to hold them, the bars to join them, etc. I got a recommendation below to use Deans Products. I haven't seen a demo on how to make saddle packs, so I guess I can use the saddle pack I buy as a reference. Any good chargers, dischargers, etc you guys can recommend?
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Old 08-15-2004, 11:29 AM   #35
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Cool The List of Items purchased....

For those of you in this thread that's been helping me so much here, here is the list of what I purchased so far...if I need any parts to combine what i have, please let me know.

Futaba S9950 Servo Digital Low-Profile
Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Pro Motor
Novak GT7 Electronic Speed Control
Hurricane Motorsport 3 Pack Batteries

To get list:
--Jig to make battery packs. I know I need glu, and bars, but can someone tell me what else I should get??? What do I need to make a saddle pack?
--Soldering Iron, Degree 45W or 60W and what's the difference? Do I a soldering station? Probably so since I plan to do this for a while. But please confirm. Also, what tips do I need?
--Battery charger

Thanks for all the help I've been getting, making this so much easier to get into.
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Old 08-16-2004, 06:39 AM   #36
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Cool - You have gotten some good equipment so far. Just a few more things to buy. (Isn't getting into electric RC racing fun? So much more complicated than buying a RTR nitro vechicle) LOL

I do recommend buying a good quality soldering iron. These are the two to look at and most common among the RC community, Weller WES51 station and the Hakko 936. You should buy the deans battery jig, this will make soldering the cells together via battery bars the cleanest. The jig gives you good instructions. The only difference between building a saddle pack is that you need to connect the cells via a 12 guage (AWG) wire between cell 3 and 4. I would recommend buying good solder. I've found 60/40 solder from radio shack to be the best and easily found.

To build a battery pack, do the following steps.
1. Heat up the iron to a hot temp. Placing solder on the tip should melt instantly (called tinning) and then wipe it off on a damp sponge.
2. Scuff the ends of the cells by sanding it by hand with sandpaper or use a sanding wheel on a dremmel for very quick access. Clean off the grit with a paint brush.
3. Put the cells in the jig so they alternate polarity. Positive to negative. You'll be soldering the cells in by series, not parallel.
4. Tin the ends of the end of the cells with a little solder.
5. Place a battery bar (Dean's probar 3 if using the newest generation GP cells) on the ends of the cells and use the pressure tool on the deans jig to hold it in place. Put a little solder on your tip and than press it to the battery bar above the cell. The solder will quickly pass through the battery bar to the solder behind it and solder it quick. Make sure your iron is hot, the soldering process should take no more than 3 seconds per end. Do the same for the next side of the bar. Viola, soldered cells together. Make sure that you clean the tip of the iron on the damn sponge after every contact.
6. Move along to the next battery bar.
7. Between cells 3 and 4 you will need to solder a wire to make a saddle pack.
8. The last cells, Positive and Negative, you will either have to solder a connector (Deans most preferably) or a bent L shapped battery bar if you decide to solder the ESC wires directly to the cells (What most serious racers do eventually rather than using a connector.)

So I hope that helps, I'll take a few pics of a totally soldered pack so you have a visual to where to place the bars and how the cells are soldered together.

Happy RC racing.
John
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Old 08-16-2004, 06:53 AM   #37
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Battery chargers.

Two different types of chargers. AC/DC and DC.

AC/DC - Ability to charge from any source, usually bigger because they have a AC to DC converter built into the unit. Reedy Quasar pro charger is in my opinion the best. Integy or Eagle also makes a good unit.

DC - Smaller, only powered via a automobile battery or AC to DC converter. I go this way and use a Rivergate bulldog 30 amp power supply converter. WIth the power supply you can hook up multiple chargers to it. Say you have a 20 amp power supply, if you charge cells at 6 amps, than 20/6 = 3.33 so than you can power 3 chargers charging at 6 amps with a 20 amp power supply. (You might need a few spare amps so that the power supply doesn't overheat or loose current if there is a dip in power)

Many different DC companies, Competition Electronics, LRP and many others are good. It all depends on your budget. Some units have a discharge and cycle function built into them so do not.

Discharge/equalize trays: These cells equalize and discharge your cells. Each cell is discharged seperatately from the whole pack. Many of the newer discharge trays have an auto cuttoff at .9v/cell. This is what has been determined the safe cutoff for the newest generation cells.

Best ones to buy on the market IMO, The novak discharge try and the rayspeed discharger.

Hope this helps. PM me if you have more specifics.

John

P.S. Since you're from NJ, generally all racing will be raced on Foam tires, not rubber, unless the track is a Roar track like Jackson by six flags.
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Old 08-17-2004, 02:30 PM   #38
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John: Those are awesome instructions!

One thing that I notice when soldering is that a "good" soldering joint is generally a simple solder joint. What I mean is that when the solder is flowing well, it will melt really quick and the battery bar will settle into place very quickly.

I forgot about promatch for batteries, and fusion as well. But, it seems like Brad at Hurricane has the best deal right now, so good job on the battery acquisition.

I also agree that the Quasar Pro is a nice charger for the price. You get up to a 20 amp discharge function, plus it's compact.

Also, if you are not planning on investing in a soldering station right away, remember that all irons are not created equal. A radio shack 40 watt iron is crap, but a weller 40 watt is pretty decent. They may get up to the same temperature, but the more important factor is how much the temperature holds up while soldering.

From what I see, all the advice offered so far in this column is dead accurate. You shouldn't have any problems as a result of "junk" equipment, since you are buying quality stuff so far. The trick now is to prioritize the purchases. I would say that a soldering station is a great start. Now go to your local track, even if you haven't got the car fully assembled, and check out what set-ups the fast guys are running, paying partiular attention to things like tires and springs. If they're running foams, then you'll maybe want to buy a set before your 1st race outing.
No matter what, you'll need to keep focus on tires and motors
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Old 08-17-2004, 02:32 PM   #39
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continued

Tires will wear, motor comms will wear. So, later on down the line you will need a comm lathe and a tire truer could help. But before you buy those items, make sure that you enjoy this hobby. After all, it should be fun first.
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Old 08-18-2004, 12:22 PM   #40
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Okay, after reviewing all of these great suggestions I have more questions to ask.

John F. mentioned to solder the ESC wires directly to the cells. If I do that, how will I be able to charge them or switch packs? (Please remember I'm new to this, it may be a silly question, but it confused me )

Should I get the charger and discharger at the same time?
Are there any systems that are a combination of the two?

I recieved the motor and the ESC, but the motor doesn't match the diagram that came with it, so I have no way of knowing which lead is positive or negative, any suggestions?
Also, the ESC has more wires than the diagram...I think they are trying to confuse me.

I found a friend at work that knows how to solder so he's going to help me with that. Thank God, didn't want to ruin anything.

I forgot all about the reciever, so I have to do some reasearch for that, but again, I'm taking suggestions.

Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2004, 02:18 PM   #41
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Jigga - if you hard solder, you will have to unsolder the ESC wires to the battery pack to charge/discharge and change packs. If you have plugs, like deans, you'll have to charge off a opposite deans connector like the one soldered on your ESC wires.

As far chargers, yes some chargers have dischargers built into them. Take the reedy quasar pro. It can charge, and it can discharge up to 20 amps. But the difference between the discharger built into a charger is that it discharges till the WHOLE pack hits certain voltage, ie 5.4V/6 cell pack. The Rayspeed Discharger and Novak tray discharges each INDIVIDUAL cell to .9V/cell. Two totally different type of discharger than one built into a charger. High competive racers have both. Not necessary for starting out, it's better to skip some of the gagets to have some cash to race and learn how to drive an RC car.

As far as receivers, you should have bought one already since you got a Futaba S9550 servo? If not, the best of the line Futaba radio is the 3PK and you can buy just the transmitter and receiver since you need no servo's. Here's a link http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXCML6**&P=7

If that's too much money, other affordable FM systems are available from Futaba, check out their website for a system that meets your needs.

John
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Old 08-19-2004, 06:36 AM   #42
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Okay, I went to the local hobby store and checked out the JR XS3 Pro. It was a good fit and it comes with a receiver. Can I use that receiver or should I buy another?

I would rather use the plugs for the battery packs for now. I understand why the pro's would do it, but for now, I need it to be easy to replace the battery and charge.
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Old 08-19-2004, 06:39 AM   #43
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That's a perfectly fine receiver
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Old 08-19-2004, 01:24 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by jigga21
Okay, I went to the local hobby store and checked out the JR XS3 Pro. It was a good fit and it comes with a receiver. Can I use that receiver or should I buy another?

I would rather use the plugs for the battery packs for now. I understand why the pro's would do it, but for now, I need it to be easy to replace the battery and charge.
That receiver I think will work with Futaba servo's, but check around to make sure. It's nice because it's crystal-less.

Understand your statement about plugs, but do yourself a favor if you use plugs, get DEANS!!

IMO, I found plugs to be pretty annoying with saddle packs and the Xray. You'll see that when you have to start putting the plug under the upper deck of the Xray and between the belt. It's much easier to direct solder to battery bars. Here's a pic of my BMI xray with cells hard soldered. To hard solder all you do is solder the red and black wire from the ESC to a bent battery bar. It will become very easy after 10 times. But give Deans connectors a try.

John
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