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Old 01-15-2011, 04:51 AM   #31
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The only other method I trust, is measuring the top of axle height with verniers....

I think you'll be hard pushed to find many world spec drivers who set they're droop with anything but down stop gauges...

They can't all be wrong ;-)
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Old 01-15-2011, 06:27 AM   #32
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I think I understand it now the way 2xs explained it. I was getting confused by the downstop numbers thinking that if I had 6mm ride height and set 4 on the downstop gauge this would give me 2mm droop but the numbers on the downstop gauges have nothing to do with tallying up with the ride height so I might set 6mm ride height and 4 on the downstop gauge but it won't mean I have 2mm droop it could be 1/2mm droop or even 1mm droop. Am I correct ?

Is it best to set ride height and droop with set up wheels or use the wheeels/tyres I'll use when racing ?

Thanks.
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Old 01-15-2011, 08:04 AM   #33
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I think I understand it now the way 2xs explained it. I was getting confused by the downstop numbers thinking that if I had 6mm ride height and set 4 on the downstop gauge this would give me 2mm droop but the numbers on the downstop gauges have nothing to do with tallying up with the ride height so I might set 6mm ride height and 4 on the downstop gauge but it won't mean I have 2mm droop it could be 1/2mm droop or even 1mm droop. Am I correct ?

Is it best to set ride height and droop with set up wheels or use the wheeels/tyres I'll use when racing ?

Thanks.
Well its best to use your tyres which you will be racing with because they will be the one performing on the track and when they wear out , they lose diametre , so i would recomend with the racing tyres
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:57 PM   #34
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Here is my technique for setting droop over ride height.

1) Set ride height. For this walkthrough I will use 5mm ride height.
2) If you want the chassis to lift up 2mm over the static ride height. Lift your chassis and slide your ride height gauge under the chassis until the chassis is +2mm over ride height, or 7mm on the gauge.
3) Set the droop screws so the tires just begin to lift off the setup surface. Or if you can see the tip of the screw between the chassis and arm. Watch for the screw to just touch the chassis.
4) Repeat for the other end of the car.
5) Remove the tires and place the chassis on the droop blocks. Using a droop gauge check each side of the axle to ensure that they are even side to side. 5a)If you are in a hurry you can leave the tires on the car. Place the car on the droop blocks and using a ride height gauge. Slide the gauge under the tire and check that both tires are off the setup surface the same amount. This will get the droop CLOSE but not as accurate as removing the tires

Your droop is now set to droop over ride height.

I use the 2mm droop above ride height as well....

For the front I set the cars ride height at 5mm... Then I place fingers on tires and lift chasis.... I measure both sides at 7mm. This gives me 2mm above ride hieght.


My only question is... after the droop is set to 2mm above ride height... should both front tires lift of the ground at the same time ???

Here lately.... if I measure 2mm above ride height (using the ride height guage), the front tires are not lifting of the ground at the same time....
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:42 AM   #35
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I use the 2mm droop above ride height as well....

For the front I set the cars ride height at 5mm... Then I place fingers on tires and lift chasis.... I measure both sides at 7mm. This gives me 2mm above ride hieght.


My only question is... after the droop is set to 2mm above ride height... should both front tires lift of the ground at the same time ???

Here lately.... if I measure 2mm above ride height (using the ride height guage), the front tires are not lifting of the ground at the same time....
That would normally mean that your downstop screws are not equal, I still have this problem, when i set equal downstop and a set ride height, my wheels dont lift at the same time, so since i have this problem, i just set the ride height, and then i adjust the downstop screws until both wheels lift at the same time with the same amount of droop.
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Old 01-19-2011, 02:17 AM   #36
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That would normally mean that your downstop screws are not equal, I still have this problem, when i set equal downstop and a set ride height, my wheels dont lift at the same time, so since i have this problem, i just set the ride height, and then i adjust the downstop screws until both wheels lift at the same time with the same amount of droop.
The issue is tweak.

Adjusting the downstop screws is one way of solving it.

The more common way is to leave the downstops even on both sides, but use the spring pre-load to adjust tweak.

Some references...

http://www.sosidge.com/sosidge/yokomo_sd_tweak.php

http://www.losi.com/Products/HintsAn...rodID=LOSA0251
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Old 01-19-2011, 10:44 AM   #37
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The issue is tweak.

Adjusting the downstop screws is one way of solving it.

The more common way is to leave the downstops even on both sides, but use the spring pre-load to adjust tweak.

Some references...

http://www.sosidge.com/sosidge/yokomo_sd_tweak.php

http://www.losi.com/Products/HintsAn...rodID=LOSA0251
Il deffenetly check the two links, but when you use the spring preload, doesnt it affect ride height ?
I remember trying to use the springs,but when my car was un-tweaked my ride height had 3 mm difference between left to right O.O
Another thing, when you mean tweak, do you mean weight balance or chassis ?
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Old 01-20-2011, 04:59 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
The issue is tweak.

Adjusting the downstop screws is one way of solving it.

The more common way is to leave the downstops even on both sides, but use the spring pre-load to adjust tweak.

Some references...

http://www.sosidge.com/sosidge/yokomo_sd_tweak.php

http://www.losi.com/Products/HintsAn...rodID=LOSA0251

Yes... TWEAK is correct... I fixed the issue yesterday.

My chasis was tweaked Badly. When I when to the track yesterday, one of the guys @ Nexus noticed that i had several chasis screws that were not countersunk as they should have been.... This was due to when i first assembled the kit I used CA glue (per manual) in those chasis holes and i guess it was two much and when it dried it didnt allow all the screws to actually seat countersunk. some of them were actually below the chasis to the point where when i set my chassis down flat (without wheels on) and pushed on a corner... the opposite end of the chasis would lift up about 2 or 3 mm.

Caused me all types of hell but its fixed now.
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Old 01-20-2011, 05:04 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by cyclone speed View Post
That would normally mean that your downstop screws are not equal, I still have this problem, when i set equal downstop and a set ride height, my wheels dont lift at the same time, so since i have this problem, i just set the ride height, and then i adjust the downstop screws until both wheels lift at the same time with the same amount of droop.

If you have this same issue i would recomend you make sure your chassis is not tweaked (warped). if you set ride height and droop 2mm above that then both tires should be very very close..... If not then, then from what i understand the chassis needs to be flatened because its probably tweaked (warped). Make sure screws are flush on the bottom then flaten your chassis.


"sosidge" was corrrect. its tweak... at least that what is what for me.
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Old 01-20-2011, 05:55 AM   #40
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The xxx main book recommends starting with 2mm rear droop and 1.5mm at the front, would this be the same for carpart and asphalt if not what would you start with ?

Thanks.
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Old 01-20-2011, 06:41 AM   #41
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The xxx main book recommends starting with 2mm rear droop and 1.5mm at the front, would this be the same for carpart and asphalt if not what would you start with ?

Thanks.
Seems like a sensible starting point.

On bumpy asphalt you might like to try a little more. I doubt you would ever need much less, even on very high grip carpet.
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Old 01-20-2011, 06:55 AM   #42
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"Quick droop question"...


3 pages later

Yeah, I hate trying to understand car setup too
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Old 04-22-2015, 03:57 AM   #43
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Ride height is a redundant setting in circuit cars it's not something you need to set, just set your droop to the same "down stop" setting as on the standard settings in your car manual.

With the car on the setup blocks wind down the spring collars to just touching the springs, this will then give you the correct ride height for that droop setting, it will allow the car to unload off the spring under braking/acceleration but no more.

There will be an optimum downstop setting for each tyre diameter, experiment with the chassis until you find this and you can stop chasing setup around like a headless chicken and get on with driving.

For instance if you set the droop blocks to 9mm/2mm on a Shepherd Velox V8 and set the springs to touching on the blocks, on tyres of a diameter of 69/76, which are qualifying tyres, you get the perfect ride height and a car that just comes out of spring pre-load under braking/acceleration.

For finals droop settings of 8mm/1mm and springs set to touching gives a good ride height and droop for final diameter tyres.

Simples, never fails, mega consistent and no room for error or tweak.

And if you want to allow the car to unload further on either end you know exactly where your starting point is for that diameter of tyre, obviously tyre wear will allow the car to get lower to the ground but this is a consequence of running foam tyres we have to live with in long finals.
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Old 04-22-2015, 04:06 AM   #44
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Ride height is a redundant setting in circuit cars it's not something you need to set, just set your droop to the same "down stop" setting as on the standard settings in your car manual.

With the car on the setup blocks wind down the spring collars to just touching the springs, this will then give you the correct ride height for that droop setting, it will allow the car to unload off the spring under braking/acceleration but no more.

There will be an optimum downstop setting for each tyre diameter, experiment with the chassis until you find this and you can stop chasing setup around like a headless chicken and get on with driving.

For instance if you set the droop blocks to 9mm/2mm on a Shepherd Velox V8 and set the springs to touching on the blocks, on tyres of a diameter of 69/76, which are qualifying tyres, you get the perfect ride height and a car that just comes out of spring pre-load under braking/acceleration.

For finals droop settings of 8mm/1mm and springs set to touching gives a good ride height and droop for final diameter tyres.

Simples, never fails, mega consistent and no room for error or tweak.

And if you want to allow the car to unload further on either end you know exactly where your starting point is for that diameter of tyre, obviously tyre wear will allow the car to get lower to the ground but this is a consequence of running foam tyres we have to live with in long finals.
Bumped a 4 year old thread. I like it

This is the electric forum though. I guess Shepherd makes a e version now.
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Old 04-22-2015, 04:25 AM   #45
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Bumped a 4 year old thread. I like it

This is the electric forum though. I guess Shepherd makes a e version now.
Haha didn't notice it was so old or in the electric on-road section either, I guess this is all totally different for electronic on road cars, maybe droop above spring extension is an advantage in those cars, but in cars the produce as much aero as 1/8 circuit, you gain no advantage, just excessive slop/unloading of the car under braking/acceleration.

F1 cars are the same in full sized motorsport, the droop/suspension travel doesn't allow the car to up travel above the spring length.
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