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Old 01-13-2011, 08:25 PM   #1
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Default Pit Routine Help?

Just got into 17.5 spec TC racing. I would like to get some ideas from you guys on what is a good pit routine for in between the qualifiers. This tips are assuming that it was a clean run with no repairs to be made. Just looking for some ideas about the things that I should be checking for from run to run Or maybe someone will pass on there routine.

Thanks,
Alex
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:45 PM   #2
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I guess first thing I always do is inspect the tires to see if they are good for the next run or not. Next thing is to make sure your wheel nuts didn't back off as well as check the under side of the chassis for any loose or dragging screws.

Check your diffs to make sure they didn't slip in the previous run, along with your belts to make sure they are the tension you want them to be. Last thing I always do is eyeball your camber and toe settings to see if they are close to where they need to be.

Just somethin to get you started! Good Luck!
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:09 PM   #3
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Good day!

I also like to check the diffs for addjustment and work the suspention on all 4 wheels to make sher everythin is moving freely. I also like to check to make shure the plugs in the rx are not backing out.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:34 PM   #4
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I am not trying to hijack this thread, but what is a good routine for putting on traction compounds on carpet tracks? I have been needing this tips!
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:34 AM   #5
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Depends on a variety of things.

Rubber or foam?

Is your carpet track medium bite? High bite? or?

What is the allowable "sauce"? As that will affect what you need to do.
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:41 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_alex39301 View Post
Just got into 17.5 spec TC racing. I would like to get some ideas from you guys on what is a good pit routine for in between the qualifiers. This tips are assuming that it was a clean run with no repairs to be made. Just looking for some ideas about the things that I should be checking for from run to run Or maybe someone will pass on there routine.

Thanks,
Alex
Inspect everything.

As mentioned check bolts in chassis, etc etc.

Also inspect wheel bearings every round and check motor and drivetrain bearings before the main.

Double check your battery hold down system. A lot of guys that use tape don't replace it every round. I suggest it to be done.

Check your pinion and spur gear for any obstructions such as tiny pebbles and debris.

Check your steering bell cranks and tie rod ends.

One you are charged and taped up (or batteries back in) check your ride height and tweak. Readjust as needed.

Sauce up and wait.....

Plug in, Re-install body with clips and put yourself on the podium!
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:46 AM   #7
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My first move after removing the battery and placing it on the charger is to clean and inspect the tires. cool the motor, check for loose screws and damage, and then check the settings,check to make sure there is no debris caught up in the moving parts (ie:wheels, bearings, belts, motor shaft at the pinion etc..). after that is it is after the second round of quals. i'll got to the snack bar and get a hot dog and cola.
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Old 01-14-2011, 08:59 AM   #8
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The main things have been covered.

(loose screws, nuts, tyre wear, camber settings, toe settings, belt and diff tension).

I like to have a nut wrench, 3 hex drivers, a metal parts tray, small brushes (1 for cleaning, one for applying additive) and additive on my pit table. That pretty much covers any adjustments I need to make inbetween heats.

The rest is in my pit box, awaiting deployment

If you race on a high bite track with foams, like I do, I apply additive 20 or 30 minutes before the first race and then the grip just keeps coming up so no need to apply any more as time passes... Simples

I'll usually have a single alcoholic refreshment and some snacks close to hand too, for me at my local club it's a good way to chill out and chat with other guys in the pits between heats
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:20 AM   #9
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What, nobody is checking motor and ESC temps? For me, that comes as soon as the car comes off the track.
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:27 AM   #10
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yea I guess that IS step one!
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:10 PM   #11
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I've learned the hard way that you should always look over the car after the race. Clean run or not, it only takes one loose screw to mess up a good race day. I first clean the car with compressed air, then brush off any excess debris. I then check to see all the screws are tight and accounted for. Make sure nothing is leaking and look over all the wiring. Only then can I worry about car setup.
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Old 01-14-2011, 02:12 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the info guys. You have brought up alot of points that I have not thought about. Someone asked about tire sauce. Any ideas on rubber tires on high bite carpet. How much? How long? Any special way it should be applied?
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:16 PM   #13
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That depends on car, track, driver preference and much more. With my setup I like to give all my tires 30 minutes of LRP TopGrip Carpet 2, but a lot of other cars would traction roll all over the place with this setup.

Some of the guys I race with, uses 15 minutes on the rear tires, and around 5 minutes on half the front tires in high-traction conditions.

So it is up to you. Try some different tactics and see what fits you. I feel that I get more grip the longer I leave the sauce on. And only using sauce on half of the front tires will take away a little of the steering, but can calm the car down.
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Old 01-14-2011, 03:54 PM   #14
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Personally I can't tell any difference if I let sauce sit for 35 minutes or 5 minutes.
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Old 01-14-2011, 07:32 PM   #15
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Hi

This is my routine for after every run, regardless of it being clean or the odd bump.

After marshalling, car on table, take battery out, clean tires with "wurth" brake cleaner, take off the car and put out of the way,

Take all 4 shocks off and put to one side, place 2 droop blocks of the glass set up board and put the car ontop to check for and chassis tweak, loosen all the top deck screws and re-tighten in a logical order.

Now I know the chassis is flat and true, I go on to check the hingepin braces. Start at either the front or the back, which ever really. Loosen all four screws that hold the mounts on, and give them a good wiggle to be sure they are free, then whilst holding either the FR block (for doing the front) or the RF block (rear) I pull the block towards that end of the car whilst tighening. Not enough to twist how it seats, just enough to keep in in place, the do the same with the FF or RR block but keeping pressure towards middle of car, after fully tight, check all four corners drop under their own weight freely, if they feel tight at all give that corner a couple of taps with the handle of your wrench, if that doesn't free it up there's either a bent block or hinge pin.

Assuming that's all fine, I move on to roll bar tweak, everyone has their own way Of doing this, so I won't go into major detail.

Then re set your droop to the correct amount

Once that's all equal then check over the shocks, give a good clean and pop back onto the car.

Pop the wheels back on, a battery in for weight, then check ride height.
After youve set ride height, I go on to pre load tweak, you can do it either by lifting either the front or rear of car up slightly tmwith a driver, or you can use the MIP/Integy bubble tweak stations either works fine as long as your car is balanced left to right.

And that's everything, this should take about 15-20 minutes normally,

As for additive times, I use, as a base starting point. 25 minute full rear, and between 5-15 minutes full front, purely dependant on track condition and how your cars feeling.


Hope that helps
Luke
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