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Proposed R.O.A.R. rules change

Proposed R.O.A.R. rules change

Old 05-30-2011, 08:31 AM
  #706  
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Originally Posted by old_dude View Post
It is much easier to smoke a motor when running boost.
Says who?, I came into electric last year when it was all boost here, did not have a problem understanding it, or coming to terms with it, did not smoke my motor either, spin forward to this year and first time out even with several gearing changes I managed to smoke my motor.

I think L.F. is right, it's easier to be fast and not smoke motors with boost, and if you do I don't think your gaining all 'that' much doing it, but with gearings for speed on zero, well it's just there (and tempting) to be had 'if' your prepared to bin gear.

Having said that, people here seem to be having an easier time with zero, and many think it's easier to dive with, but I will likely always miss boost, and think it was a better way to go.
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:03 AM
  #707  
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Burning up a motor is simply a matter of user error, since wiper speed controls and 1200sc Nicads people have been smoking motors. So what?

The big picture here is you have a number of companies in ROAR's ear for the last couple of years crying about how they can't sell a speedo of the month anymore and that it is not fair....booo fricken hooo.

Brushless was a whole new ballgame and the companies wanted to rake you guys over the coals....There was an orange and a blue company...look at the last few speed controls they came out with....the same damn speed control with updated programming! You were paying $200+ every time for a stupid software update! The BD was $400! Is that good for the hobby? Quick, name one company that you could buy a speed control and still be WINNING after 3 years......easy there is only one.

Take some more time to learn about the software and grow with this awesome technology.

Of course this is just the way I see things.
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:19 AM
  #708  
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i View Post
Really, where did he say that?

What is so hard to understand here? If your motor can reliably take 180 degrees then don't gear it so it is running 190. Starting to get it yet?

The point is that you push a non boosted motor closer to its limit then in boost mode. But what do I know I've only been doing this for 18 years. Now are you starting to get it????
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:27 AM
  #709  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs View Post
The point is that you push a non boosted motor closer to its limit then in boost mode. But what do I know I've only been doing this for 18 years. Now are you starting to get it????
Pat yourself on the back. 18 years of experience and you have to make stuff up about "gentlemans agreements" to bolster your point. I do get it. Bravo.
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:45 AM
  #710  
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Originally Posted by old_dude View Post
Gear the car to the desired temp and you shouldn't have a problem. If it slows you down , it slows everyone down. Everyone has the same conditions at the time.
Originally Posted by Chaz955i View Post
Really, where did he say that?

What is so hard to understand here? If your motor can reliably take 180 degrees then don't gear it so it is running 190. Starting to get it yet?
You have to read between the lines. If there is no limit on FDR, someone will always try to push the motor a little bit more. Some motors will take it and some won't. We're back to the days of trying to find that one motor that will take the heat.
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:48 AM
  #711  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Cuffs View Post
The point is that you push a non boosted motor closer to its limit then in boost mode. But what do I know I've only been doing this for 18 years. Now are you starting to get it????
No you don't, it's just as easy to with boost, if not more so. But what do I know I've only been doing this since 1988.
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Old 05-30-2011, 10:55 AM
  #712  
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If you're pushing a motor so hard that it is close to detonation then wouldn't it be "falling off" to the point that the run would be slow anyway?
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:04 AM
  #713  
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I can run my TC where the motor comes off at 130 after 6 minutes, or my 1/12 where it comes off around 120 after 8 minutes, and not be down on punch out of the corners, or speed on the straight compared with anyone else I race with. Some guys run their motors hotter, some run them cooler, but with a set up suited to their driving, nobody is usually down on power.

I'm usually lacking car handling and/or driving skill, but I've only once thought "man, I'm down on power" when running boost. So I replaced my 3 year old motor.

I'm not sure who is more condescending in this thread, the "boost is the devil" group, or the "take off your skirt and crank up the boost" brigade.



There's a lot of experienced guys in this thread, and what surprises me the most is that it seems like the proponents of non-boost seem to want to make it more "beginner friendly", but also want to be able to run more than one class, just not mod. The Pro-Boost guys seem to agree that boosted is usually too big of a jump for beginners [but not always], so a non-boosted "stock" class is fine, but boosted Super Stock should still be an option.

This all makes sense to me, until the non-boost crowd comes back in screaming that boost has no place in RC at all.

So what, exactly, is the problem with having both? I could care less what the non-boosted class is called: stock, RCGT, VTA, etc. There are more than enough flavors to keep non-boosted racing running strong for those interested.

Super Stock [spec wind, boosted], is where I prefer to race, and I'm hardly alone.


The way it stands, I really wanted to run the paved Nats this summer, if my work schedule cooperated. Instead, I discovered that I'd have to change and test so many things different on my car for the class I want to race, that it's just not going to be worth it for me to even attempt going. [and before I hear any flak, I'd like to see what you guys would do with only 2 weeks at home, able to play, test or race RC, out of every 10 weeks, because that's my work schedule]. I still want to race at Jackson, just might decide to do it a cheaper weekend.

If Snowbirds follows suit, I'm really going to do some crazy stuff with all the money I've saved the last year to go to these 2 events, because neither is going to get it from my attendance.
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:07 AM
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You bring back boost to all classes you bring back the finacial incentive for ESC manufacturers to advance their programming. They're not investing as much in the software because of the popularity of the non-boost classes. You're dreaming if you think the boost ESCs won't advance any farther.

Another thing to think about ... When do you think ESC companies will roll out their new software? The big races where they have the most to gain and the people who don't have that particular ESC has the most to lose. I would be pissed if I spent $1000 for a race later to find out an ESC company just came out with their latest game changer software. Remember that race with the black diamond?
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Old 05-30-2011, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by stiltskin View Post
You have to read between the lines. If there is no limit on FDR, someone will always try to push the motor a little bit more. Some motors will take it and some won't. We're back to the days of trying to find that one motor that will take the heat.
I see what you are saying and perhaps my view is somewhat skewed by the fact I race almost exclusively at the local level and I don't see people burning up motors left and right and we have been doing blinky TC for the past year. My track is different than others so just because I haven't personally seen the rash of burnt motors doesn't' mean it isn't happening elsewhere. Boosted or not I think it is a fool's gamble to run a motor at the breaking point for .1 sec especially at the club level where most racing takes place. Some people think it is worth it. Neither is right or wrong, it is just what we are individually willing to accept as the price of speed. Nobody is forced to use their equipment that way and for the guys driving at that level where it comes down to that .1 tenth of extra motor, I bet they ain't paying for motors anyway.

Blinky or boosted whatever, I just wish we could get past these overdone arguements and focus on racing. All the bitching and whining in the guise of doing what is best to grow the hobby. If I were a new person and read this thread I'd just spend my money on a nice set of golf clubs.
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Old 05-30-2011, 12:00 PM
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Blinky or boosted whatever, I just wish we could get past these overdone arguements and focus on racing. All the bitching and whining in the guise of doing what is best to grow the hobby. If I were a new person and read this thread I'd just spend my money on a nice set of golf clubs.

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Old 05-30-2011, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Xpress View Post
If you're pushing a motor so hard that it is close to detonation then wouldn't it be "falling off" to the point that the run would be slow anyway?
No, I had a 13.5 come off at about 200 degrees on Sat. My 2nd to last lap was my fastest lap of the run.
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:13 PM
  #718  
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I think everyone posting here has made valid arguments. The fact is that ROAR will decide what the rule will be in the near future and they will enforce it at their races.
I have in the past talked to ROAR officials about their rule making methods (every national I have been to I make a point of talking to them) and believe me it is a thankless task. In the end they do try and do what is best for the hobby so please understand that when the final decision comes down.
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:20 PM
  #719  
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Originally Posted by Chaz955i View Post
Pat yourself on the back. 18 years of experience and you have to make stuff up about "gentlemans agreements" to bolster your point. I do get it. Bravo.
Wow you left me speechless its like I'm dealing with Richie rich.
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Old 05-30-2011, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
No you don't, it's just as easy to with boost, if not more so. But what do I know I've only been doing this since 1988.
Well if you are popping more motors in boost then not in nonboost then maybe you need to work on gearing.
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