Thunder Power RC Z3R Motors
#588

Hi folks,
Anyone running one of these in a 200mm pan car (LMP) w/stock rotor, 21.5t, & 2s? Track is indoor carpet - 100' x 36'
Looking for timing range on un-cut foams.
Anyone running one of these in a 200mm pan car (LMP) w/stock rotor, 21.5t, & 2s? Track is indoor carpet - 100' x 36'
Looking for timing range on un-cut foams.
#590

Where can I find the specs for Thunder Power motors? I would like to compare kv and power (w), but cannot find these info...
Thanks for help,
G-rem
Thanks for help,
G-rem
#591
Tech Rookie

Hi guys. I just purchased a new to me Custom Works SE3. I race on a flat dirt track around 40x60ft. I usually run a stock slash and a brushless SC10 Team kit. I have several feature wins and consider myself to be a throttle control type driver. The track I race at requires foam tires with late model body, and 13.5 in blinky. I decided to move to this class to get away from the people that drive like back yard bashers. I took the car out for a few practice sessions in class and found myself to be running mid pack. When I bought the guy out it came with 5 rotors of different colors. I was told that the motor had not been run yet so I'm assuming it has the red rotor. Anyway, the car flys through the corners but I get walked on down the strait. Would I benifit from changing the rotor to torque, high torque, or Mod to make up the difference? Motor rpm's sounded in the ball park and the motor temp was only warm and not uncomfortable to the touch. Timing is set at 20. I'm experienced but new to this class and motor and pretty much just need a quick education on the different rotor characteristics, and the max safe timing for each rotor. Thanks in advance.
#592

Are there many people running the 17.5 in 2wd buggy? Difficult to keep these motors, and others, cool during the Aussie summer. Also, are the ceramic bearings a good upgrade? Why/why not?
#593

Tap the end bell to free it up, one of mine was super thight out of the box too.
#594

I've taken to using heat transfer compound between the stator and the can. It transfers a lot more heat through to the outside where a fan can cool it.
#595
#597

Just sharing info. I like these motors a lot. I extra like how easy the timing is to adjust.
Been running 17.5 TP w/ green rotor in stock buggy w/ AE b5m
18 deg timing
32/69 gearing
small, tight, indoor off road on astro turf
Temping around 160 deg. after 8 min race
Has speed and power. Once I can lighten the drive train a little this monster should wake up even more.
Thinking of trying 33/72 w/ less timing next.
Been running 17.5 TP w/ green rotor in stock buggy w/ AE b5m
18 deg timing
32/69 gearing
small, tight, indoor off road on astro turf
Temping around 160 deg. after 8 min race
Has speed and power. Once I can lighten the drive train a little this monster should wake up even more.
Thinking of trying 33/72 w/ less timing next.
Last edited by Wade....; 04-18-2014 at 11:27 AM.
#598

Hi guys. I just purchased a new to me Custom Works SE3. I race on a flat dirt track around 40x60ft. I usually run a stock slash and a brushless SC10 Team kit. I have several feature wins and consider myself to be a throttle control type driver. The track I race at requires foam tires with late model body, and 13.5 in blinky. I decided to move to this class to get away from the people that drive like back yard bashers. I took the car out for a few practice sessions in class and found myself to be running mid pack. When I bought the guy out it came with 5 rotors of different colors. I was told that the motor had not been run yet so I'm assuming it has the red rotor. Anyway, the car flys through the corners but I get walked on down the strait. Would I benifit from changing the rotor to torque, high torque, or Mod to make up the difference? Motor rpm's sounded in the ball park and the motor temp was only warm and not uncomfortable to the touch. Timing is set at 20. I'm experienced but new to this class and motor and pretty much just need a quick education on the different rotor characteristics, and the max safe timing for each rotor. Thanks in advance.
So yea, basically higher torque rotors will make more low end power at the expense of rpm. So if you are fast thru the corner but slow on the straight I would 'rotor down' to a more rpm based rotor to pick up straight line speed. Since you are running the Red rotor tho (the most RPM based) something else has to be looked at.
Since you don't have a temp gun (I highly suggest getting one) you don't really know where you are at currently. I would suspect you could just be undergeared and undertimed so you are not getting the most of your motor yet anyways. Crank the timing to 35, see what happens. Still temping a little low, add a tooth to your pinion. Most shoot for motor temps 130-160 but don't run your motor over 160 deg F.
I have only played with the Red and Green rotors. IME, the Red rotor likes timing between 30-35 and the Green rotor likes timing between 15-20.
#599

What rotor would be best suited to 17.5 blinky, 2wd buggy? I'm thinking the red because any excess torque would just be wasted in 2wd.