Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Thunder Power RC Z3R Motors >

Thunder Power RC Z3R Motors

Like Tree1Likes

Thunder Power RC Z3R Motors

Old 12-31-2013, 07:55 AM
  #556  
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,952
Default

Originally Posted by ttsquirrel
i ended up finding something on you tube and changed out the rotor, but the kit came with a couple different spacers and one o-ring. i just used the same spacer as the stock rotor. is there a reason why there are extra spacers for the rotors?

also noticed that stock rotor has four holes drilled into it. check the picture out. is that a mod that people do or is that from the factory like that? the green rotor does not have any holes in it. BTW, I bought the motor used.

Thanks

TTS
Make a note of how much end float there is with the stock rotor. The idea is to fit the other rotors with the same amount of end float.
The red and blue rotors are the same diameter, but the magnetic material on the blue is something like 1mm longer than the red, so different spacers might be required.
The green rotor is the same length as the blue, but has a larger diameter by 0.2mm.

Just take the original apart and when rebuilding with the new rotor, remember to put everything back, especially the huge fibre 'washer' at the sensor board end.
Skiddins is offline  
Old 12-31-2013, 08:56 AM
  #557  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
ToysRUsKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cinncinati, OH
Posts: 2,656
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by oeoeo327
How large is your track, and how open are the typical layouts? Once we have an idea of how tight the track is, we can give you a better idea how to gear the motor. If you're thinking of running the TP 17.5 in TC, the green rotor w/35 degrees of timing is the way to go.
83x40 with about 9.2 second lap times in blinky TC.
ToysRUsKid is offline  
Old 12-31-2013, 09:13 AM
  #558  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (75)
 
oeoeo327's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,657
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid
83x40 with about 9.2 second lap times in blinky TC.
Try a 3.9 FDR as a starting point for the green rotor. If you try the blue rotor, start at 4.0. I used a 3.8 FDR, green rotor and 35 degrees of timing on a 100x40 track, and was very competitive using these settings.
oeoeo327 is offline  
Old 12-31-2013, 09:55 AM
  #559  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 79
Default

thanks for the replies on the rotors.. I put eveything back together with the new spacers and o-ring to match the red rotor. hopefully everything will be ok. i will find out when i run it this weekend. if i run into some problems, there will probabaly be some guys at the track that can help me out.

TTS
ttsquirrel is offline  
Old 01-07-2014, 02:11 PM
  #560  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
Flagler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Wentzylvania
Posts: 1,354
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Having some issues with my 8.5T. It's really loud. It doesn't get hot or anything but when it runs you can hear that it doesn't quite sound right. I've had it for about a year and I've never done anything to it except blowing the dust out of it. What could be causing the noise? Also, the tabs are moving side to side just a little bit. Is that normal?
Flagler is offline  
Old 01-07-2014, 02:56 PM
  #561  
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,952
Default

Originally Posted by Flagler
Having some issues with my 8.5T. It's really loud. It doesn't get hot or anything but when it runs you can hear that it doesn't quite sound right. I've had it for about a year and I've never done anything to it except blowing the dust out of it. What could be causing the noise? Also, the tabs are moving side to side just a little bit. Is that normal?
I had a motor where there was a little play in the stator as well, that's probably the sound you're hearing.
I added another of the fibre shims to the sensor end from another TP motor, problem solved (add another small shim to the pinion end of the rotor shaft to compensate)
Skiddins is offline  
Old 01-07-2014, 03:01 PM
  #562  
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
 
Flagler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Wentzylvania
Posts: 1,354
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Skiddins
I had a motor where there was a little play in the stator as well, that's probably the sound you're hearing.
I added another of the fibre shims to the sensor end from another TP motor, problem solved (add another small shim to the pinion end of the rotor shaft to compensate)
Do you mean this? Also, I cannot find any of the metal rotor shims for sale. A link to something I can use would be appreciated. Also, could it be the bearings making all of that noise?
Flagler is offline  
Old 01-16-2014, 09:12 AM
  #563  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (63)
 
xrayrc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,228
Trader Rating: 63 (100%+)
Default

Anyone got a good configuration for 2wd stock buggy?
xrayrc is offline  
Old 01-17-2014, 06:17 PM
  #564  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
ToysRUsKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cinncinati, OH
Posts: 2,656
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

When changing from the red to green rotor, should the shimming change or can i use the same spacing? Also, what effect does add or removing shims have?
ToysRUsKid is offline  
Old 01-17-2014, 08:03 PM
  #565  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
 
elee32's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: lambertville, nj
Posts: 788
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid
When changing from the red to green rotor, should the shimming change or can i use the same spacing? Also, what effect does add or removing shims have?
Shims can stay the same. For shimming, I'm pretty sure you want the rotor as close to the sensor board as possible, but not too close...best bet is to use the stock shim placement.
elee32 is offline  
Old 01-17-2014, 08:18 PM
  #566  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
ToysRUsKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cinncinati, OH
Posts: 2,656
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by elee32
Shims can stay the same. For shimming, I'm pretty sure you want the rotor as close to the sensor board as possible, but not too close...best bet is to use the stock shim placement.
that's what i did. thanks.
ToysRUsKid is offline  
Old 01-18-2014, 06:37 PM
  #567  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
 
ToysRUsKid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cinncinati, OH
Posts: 2,656
Trader Rating: 16 (100%+)
Default

Just replaced my 17.5 red rotor with the green rotor for my 12th scale. The track is 83x40, which starting gearing should I use with 42.5mm tire?? 35 degrees timing, correct?

For TC i used the blue rotor that and it worked out well but I'm curious what I'll get from the green in 12th.

Last edited by ToysRUsKid; 01-19-2014 at 11:57 PM.
ToysRUsKid is offline  
Old 01-18-2014, 07:51 PM
  #568  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 7,755
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

These motors seem pretty fast !!!!
bertrandsv87 is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 03:04 AM
  #569  
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,952
Default

Originally Posted by Flagler
Do you mean this? Also, I cannot find any of the metal rotor shims for sale. A link to something I can use would be appreciated. Also, could it be the bearings making all of that noise?
Yes, that's the part I meant.

I don't think the bearing could be as noisy as you think.

Skiddins
Skiddins is offline  
Old 01-19-2014, 05:20 AM
  #570  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (109)
 
LOW ET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: cleveland, ohio
Posts: 3,290
Trader Rating: 109 (100%+)
Default

never mind
LOW ET is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.