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Thunder Power RC Z3R Motors

Old 08-23-2013, 06:05 AM
  #541  
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Hello,
I will run TC 10.5 blinky with a Z3R, what is the best rotor choice?
thanks
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:53 AM
  #542  
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Want to thank Jim for helping me the last 5 years while I ran for TP and listening to my endless bitching.


Now I have to pick new motors and sticks to run...
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:51 PM
  #543  
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Hey Larry: Just curious why your leaving thunder power is your contract up or just want to try something else? Thanks
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Old 10-15-2013, 12:39 PM
  #544  
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I have a reedy sonic Mach2 4.5t is comparable with the thunder power 4.5t with power and speed
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:30 PM
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Looking at the 550 motors. Trying to decide if I should get thunder power or reedy. Is the power band different? What are the differences?
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Old 10-24-2013, 11:43 AM
  #546  
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Originally Posted by latentspeed
Looking at the 550 motors. Trying to decide if I should get thunder power or reedy. Is the power band different? What are the differences?
im in on that one also, its for my DEX410 but can't decide TP ore Reedy any one?

Best Regards.
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Old 11-26-2013, 04:22 AM
  #547  
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Does anybody have solid numbers on the kv rating of the mod motors (specifically the 7.5)? I can't find any kv ratings anywhere.

Thanks in advance,

Mark
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:25 AM
  #548  
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Hi
Going to be running a tp 5.5 in my 12th like to know if the stock rotor is the one to use or one of the optional ones is best..
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:33 AM
  #549  
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Originally Posted by Quietman
Hi
Going to be running a tp 5.5 in my 12th like to know if the stock rotor is the one to use or one of the optional ones is best..
The Mod motors use a different rotor from the stock versions.
Stick with the original, it will be far more powerful (plus I think it won't fit )
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Old 12-04-2013, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Skiddins
The Mod motors use a different rotor from the stock versions.
Stick with the original, it will be far more powerful (plus I think it won't fit )
Spec rotors fit inside the mod cans - it'll smooth out the powerband at the expense of efficiency... I tried this as an experiment while learning to drive a Mod TC on asphalt. Upside, car was significantly easier to drive; downside, my batteries took a beating...
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Old 12-29-2013, 04:53 PM
  #551  
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looking for a little help with a 21.5 motor. i bought the green high torque rotor but cant find any instructions on how to replace the stock rotor with the green one. i cant even find anything on you tube about replacing it. thunder powers web site instruction link doesn't work.
thanks for any help and info

TTS
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:20 AM
  #552  
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i ended up finding something on you tube and changed out the rotor, but the kit came with a couple different spacers and one o-ring. i just used the same spacer as the stock rotor. is there a reason why there are extra spacers for the rotors?

also noticed that stock rotor has four holes drilled into it. check the picture out. is that a mod that people do or is that from the factory like that? the green rotor does not have any holes in it. BTW, I bought the motor used.

Thanks

TTS
Attached Thumbnails Thunder Power RC Z3R Motors-rotor.jpg  
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Old 12-30-2013, 10:28 AM
  #553  
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Originally Posted by ttsquirrel
i ended up finding something on you tube and changed out the rotor, but the kit came with a couple different spacers and one o-ring. i just used the same spacer as the stock rotor. is there a reason why there are extra spacers for the rotors?

also noticed that stock rotor has four holes drilled into it. check the picture out. is that a mod that people do or is that from the factory like that? the green rotor does not have any holes in it. BTW, I bought the motor used.

Thanks

TTS
The extra spacers are included to allow you to adjust the rotor's location relative to the sensors on the sensor board. In most cases, using the shims supplied with the original rotor will suffice, but there are cases where shims are added or subtracted to locate the rotor in the can correctly.

The drilled holes in the rotor are used for balancing purposes. Special machinery is required to make sure that the rotor balances properly, so very few people would be performing this modification on their own. I wouldn't worry about the lack of balance holes on the new rotor - it simply means that the rotor was within the factory tolerances for being balanced without requiring additional material to be removed.
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Old 12-30-2013, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ThunderPowerRC
No you want to be somewhere around 3.5-3.6 FDR with the red rotor @ 35* timing. If you go with the blue rotor then you can go 3.3 - 3.4.
Trying to wrap my head around this because i'm getting back into electric racing. I have 1 motor with blue rotor and another with stock red rotor. the blue I can gear to 3.3-3.4 with 35 timing? the red I can gear to 3.5-3.6 with 35 degree timing?

It sounds like I would fair better with the green rotor, but what gearing and timing?

This is all on the Xray T4'14.

Thanks
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Old 12-31-2013, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid
Trying to wrap my head around this because i'm getting back into electric racing. I have 1 motor with blue rotor and another with stock red rotor. the blue I can gear to 3.3-3.4 with 35 timing? the red I can gear to 3.5-3.6 with 35 degree timing?

It sounds like I would fair better with the green rotor, but what gearing and timing?

This is all on the Xray T4'14.

Thanks
How large is your track, and how open are the typical layouts? Once we have an idea of how tight the track is, we can give you a better idea how to gear the motor. If you're thinking of running the TP 17.5 in TC, the green rotor w/35 degrees of timing is the way to go.
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