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Old 04-24-2013, 09:38 AM   #436
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Your car will never reach those rpms as you're measuring 'off load'
In a sedan, with boost, at the end of a long straight this is possible. Note that a 13.5 with boost is very close in actual lap times to open mod on small and meduim size tracks (with in 1-2/10ths).

A sedan with a 13.5 motor turning 60K rpm, with a 8:1 final drive and 63mm tall tires will be going 55mph.
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Old 04-25-2013, 04:05 AM   #437
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In a sedan, with boost, at the end of a long straight this is possible. Note that a 13.5 with boost is very close in actual lap times to open mod on small and meduim size tracks (with in 1-2/10ths).

A sedan with a 13.5 motor turning 60K rpm, with a 8:1 final drive and 63mm tall tires will be going 55mph.
Rev's still wouldn't be quite that high. If the track is big enough for 55mph, the gearing would proabvly be more like 6:1 (as was the case last weekend at Cotswold in the UK, with top speeds of a couple of people measured at 55mph, and gearing around 6:1)

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Old 04-25-2013, 04:52 AM   #438
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Rev's still wouldn't be quite that high. If the track is big enough for 55mph, the gearing would proabvly be more like 6:1 (as was the case last weekend at Cotswold in the UK, with top speeds of a couple of people measured at 55mph, and gearing around 6:1)

Skiddins
Is that a blinky or boosted final drive? Sounds like a zero timing ratio.
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Old 04-25-2013, 05:30 AM   #439
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Is that a blinky or boosted final drive? Sounds like a zero timing ratio.
Boosted.
On a 30m*16m carpet track i run 7.8-8.0 in 13.5 boosted with Thunder Power 13.5's, but don't gear anywhere near that low outdoors.

I did recently forget to change the gearing from my smaller Friday carpet club when I went outdoors, despite running a lot of timing on the ESC and the motor it was a total dog on the straight.

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Old 04-25-2013, 06:08 AM   #440
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That makes sense. I always forget how large your outdoor tracks are.

On another note, I TQ'd both rounds of qualifying in 1/12 last night and finished second in the main with my TP 13.5 (Green rotor, 30 timing, 87mm rollout).
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:00 AM   #441
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That makes sense. I always forget how large your outdoor tracks are.

On another note, I TQ'd both rounds of qualifying in 1/12 last night and finished second in the main with my TP 13.5 (Green rotor, 30 timing, 87mm rollout).
Blinky?
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Old 04-25-2013, 07:09 AM   #442
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Blinky?
Yes, sorry, the US is 100% blinky for onroad.
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:14 AM   #443
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Yes, sorry, the US is 100% blinky for onroad.
How do you find the green rotor in 1/12 compared with the blue rotor?

I do some 1/12 over the winter and the main class is 10.5 blinky which I do, I don't have the balls for 1/12 Mod yet but I have been using the Blue rotor with 40deg on the can.

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Old 04-25-2013, 08:43 AM   #444
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How do you find the green rotor in 1/12 compared with the blue rotor?

I do some 1/12 over the winter and the main class is 10.5 blinky which I do, I don't have the balls for 1/12 Mod yet but I have been using the Blue rotor with 40deg on the can.

Skiddins
We just started doing 10.5 blinky 12th over here, it's been interesting so far, I ran my 13.5 the other night cause I don't have a spare 10.5T stator yet, stock rotor, motor made almost no extra power worth note over 40-45deg timing.
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Old 04-25-2013, 09:40 AM   #445
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Originally Posted by Skiddins View Post
How do you find the green rotor in 1/12 compared with the blue rotor?

I do some 1/12 over the winter and the main class is 10.5 blinky which I do, I don't have the balls for 1/12 Mod yet but I have been using the Blue rotor with 40deg on the can.

Skiddins
Note that this is all for 1s World GT and 1/12th racing with TP 13.5 motors.

I race on a 25m x 12m carpet track. It requires a lot of torque to get the cars moving after hairpins and tight 90deg corners. We find the biggest spec legal rotor that can be fitted is fastest on any motor we have tried (D3, Revtech, TP Z3R-S, D3.5). Bigger rotors require more gear but still have better acceleration than the smaller rotors with the same top speeds as the smaller rotors.

I suspect that this would be true on any track as the stronger magnet would generate the highest watt output. For blinky racing you have to find the timing and roll out sweet spot that extracts the most from the motor. I find that anything over 30-35deg creates more heat with no increase in speed. There are a few guys running less timing ~15 deg with more gear and are also very fast.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:54 AM   #446
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Well since my last question that TP still hasn't answered I've dropped from 42' timing to 35' timing and run 60-65mm rollout on 13.5t 1S blinky with the standard red rotor in 1/12th on a 20m x 12m track. The car is as quick as anything else on the track and the lap times back this up but it still does feel flat, not enough torque for my liking. Looks like I need to order a 12.5mm rotor
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:53 AM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Note that this is all for 1s World GT and 1/12th racing with TP 13.5 motors.

I race on a 25m x 12m carpet track. It requires a lot of torque to get the cars moving after hairpins and tight 90deg corners. We find the biggest spec legal rotor that can be fitted is fastest on any motor we have tried (D3, Revtech, TP Z3R-S, D3.5). Bigger rotors require more gear but still have better acceleration than the smaller rotors with the same top speeds as the smaller rotors.

I suspect that this would be true on any track as the stronger magnet would generate the highest watt output. For blinky racing you have to find the timing and roll out sweet spot that extracts the most from the motor. I find that anything over 30-35deg creates more heat with no increase in speed. There are a few guys running less timing ~15 deg with more gear and are also very fast.
What sort of rollout would you use on that size of track? I'm assuming that you are running 30-35deg with the green rotor.
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Old 04-26-2013, 11:44 AM   #448
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Well since my last question that TP still hasn't answered I've dropped from 42' timing to 35' timing and run 60-65mm rollout on 13.5t 1S blinky with the standard red rotor in 1/12th on a 20m x 12m track. The car is as quick as anything else on the track and the lap times back this up but it still does feel flat, not enough torque for my liking. Looks like I need to order a 12.5mm rotor
I race on a similar sized track. I run the Green High Torque Rotor at 30deg timing with a 87mm roll out. The motor comes off the track after 8 min at ~150deg.
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Old 04-26-2013, 12:30 PM   #449
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Ok, so I'm not super experienced in what happens when motors wear out, do they just fade away, as in loose power/torque?, I can still get speed from my TP 10.5T, but it's not as punchy as it was, and as of the night meet I just had, I'm up to a 50mm rollout now on my blinky tourer with no sign of the motor getting hot (60C), I'm running out of pinions to gear up with.

And if it's faded, new stator?, and/or rotor time???
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Old 04-26-2013, 01:20 PM   #450
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As the rotor loses strength it will lose torque but gain RPM. So in that case you should be gearing down. As long as the sensors are functional, the only other thing that can wear out in a brushless motor is the bearings. I would first try to check the rest of your electronics. Maybe borrow a motor from someone, and that will tell you if your problem is the motor, or something else like battery or ESC setup.
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