ThunderPowerRC

You can swap any 10.5/13.5/17.5/21.5 stator into any stock spec or modified can. You cannot put a mod stator 9.5t or less into a stock spec can because the stator length is longer for the modified winds. Hope this makes since.

Green Machine!

iTrader: (10)

If anyone is interested I put a TP 13.5 & a green tuning rotor on the for sale thread.

dds6695

iTrader: (9)

Running 13.5 with red rotor and rollout at 76 on carpet. Looking for a suggestion for timing. Currently at 35deg ??

Skiddins

What class, what ESC, boosted/blinky etc?

mhavlena

Exact same thing happening to me.
2S touring belt car
Doesn't matter what timing is used
only occurs during braking, car has plenty of performance.
Using Tekinn RS pro with Novak 17.5T (blinky)
Suspension and tranny in great condition, mess between spur and pinion good, no stripping...but lots of clicking during braking...

dds6695

iTrader: (9)

Class is WGT blinky. ESC is Novak Edge.

Nego

iTrader: (97)

need tips on timing,runing a 13.5 on carpet,with a mmp,72 spur,26 pinon on my sc10.

silencery

iTrader: (21)

Same issue here on my 21.5T in F1. Tried with timing range from 0-40deg.

Can't isolate the brake clicking sound to ONLY the motor just yet since i haven't tried replacing the motor, but I've swapped out a few things already, so the chances seem kinda high.

+1 Subscribed.

Skiddins

When you take out the rotor and endbell, if you put the rotor into the endbell does the back end of the rotor sit too close to the sensor board?

Skiddins

Green Machine!

iTrader: (10)

I can tell you from honest personal experience what happened to me. I have the exact same thing. TP 17.5, RSpro (blinkey), S411TE TC, 2S battery. I was also running the TP 13.5 on my S100LT WGT, 1S battery, Hobbywing esc (blinkey). I learned that TP doesn't like too much timing from what I tested (with all three rotors) and I never got my motor to "click" becasue of that fact. But running (currantly now, sorry TP) the Noval Balistic's, they love lotsss of timing. About two to three "imaginary" marks past the sticker even. But if I go a little more than that, it runs like a bat out of hell temping at 165-170 after 6 minutes, but it will click under a quick hard brake right before the hairpin at the end of the straight. It's caused by too much timing (in my case) nothing more, and has nothing to do with the car. Just back off the timing a smidge or reduce your initial brakes from either the radio setting or esc programmer, until the clicking goes away (which it will)

racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

My sedan was doing that for a while and only when braking as well. it was a pin coming out of one of the DCJ's! put the same motor in a different car to see if still does it, but i think it may be the car. I really thought it was the motor as well. but the motor was fine. BTW im now on my 3rd TP motor 2 17.5s and 21.5 alll of which are stupid fast and extremely consistent through the run. all 3 have less than 35 deg of timing in them.

silencery

iTrader: (21)

Good suggestion. I was thinking the same thing, so I shimmed it to sit slightly further from the sensor board (even though it wasn't that close to begin with). Still clicks.

Overall, it's not a HUGE deal to me, just curious about the causes.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

I am running a 13.5 in Blinky WGT. 30deg timing, Green Rotor, 85mm roll out on a carpet track. It comes of the track at 144 Deg F. My car is fast but locals with D3.5's are faster. I have tried rollouts from 82 to 90mm and I am confident 85mm is right. Can I run more timing to get more speed?

Skiddins

I thought the general concensus was that the green rotor was too powerfull for 1s applications and might actually be limiting the rev's a bit.
Have you tried the red or blue rotor's?
With a blue rotor in 1/12, I know a few who have run up to 45 deg timing.

AdrianM

iTrader: (4)

I have tried the Red and Green Rotors. Both at 30 Deg timing. Lap times were the same for both. The green rotor could carry a bit more gear. I will switch back to the Red rotor, try more timing and drop a couple teeth.

The guys running the Trinity D3.5 are running their strongest 12.5mm (Maxzilla) rotor in 17.5 and 13.5 1/12th and WGT (13.5). All are 1S classes.