M24

Any suggested set up for an Xray T3 2011 running in 21.5 blinky class? Plenty in this thread for the quicker classes, but not too many for us slower drivers that can't handle the quicker classes.

Current settings are an FDR of 3.35 (which is a roll out of 59.08). Timing is currently set at 37 degrees. Standard rotor. ESC is a Tekin RS and temps are approximately 150 F / 65 C at the end of a race run.

Car is quick through the infield but loses out slightly down the main straight which is about 30 metres long. Seems quicker than other TP powered cars running a couple of teeth taller gearing but less timing.

Any thoughts will be much appreciated.

Greg

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

Does anyone know a good and safe starting FDR or Rollout for 10.5T blinky class on road?, just ordered a TP motor to replace my fading HW motor, I have been running the HW at absurd levels, but mainly cause it's got very low fixed timing.

NolanP

iTrader: (8)

It depends on how big of a track you are running

Bishop

iTrader: (5)

Two configurations, on a large outdoor track, one I guess would be large by electric standards, with a couple of fairly long straights, the other run more regularly is quite short and constantly turning, but still with one medium length straight.

I'd feel safer going in with a ball park safe zone for the TP motor, I know I cooked a SP motor when we went from turbo to zero, at not such a extreme FDR, yet on the HW motor now I'm down/up to a 48mm or more rollout (though it is winter right now and around 10-15C on track at night).

NolanP

iTrader: (8)

My guess would be 4.5 to 5.0 to start then.

Jeremy Otis

I have heard the the Reedy and Thunerpower motors are the same motor with cosmetic differences? Can anyone confirm this? Thanks

stiltskin

iTrader: (103)

Here's a breakdown of two 17.5 motors. Rotors are slightly different. Other internals appear to be identical, but I didn't take any measurements to confirm. Either way, both are very good motors.

Skiddins

They are similar, but not the same, for a start the main bearings are different which means the size and position of the rotor is not the same.

Skiddins

bitisbitis

Any suggestions??
Thanks

beebone

I just got a brand new 5.0T motor today, and test it.
The speed is crazy, i like it. But, when after 4 minutes run, the motor seems lost the magnetic force. I tried another 3 minutes, the speed got no different but no brake force generated.
I don't think it's overgear, the motor tempertature was 55C (at most 60C) reading from heat gun.

Here's my set up.
-motor timing, maintain 20, no change

ESC timing:
- boost timing: 4
- boost start: 14000 rpm
- boost end: 34000 rpm
- turbo start: 35000 rpm
- turbo timing: 25
- turbo operating speed: 300m sec
- turbo return speed: 300m sec

Battery:
7.4V 6800mAh, 70C

So which part should be replaced? Rotor or sator? Thx!

Skiddins

How were the lap times?

It could be that the ESC is getting hot, not the motor.

Skiddins

johnny lee

iTrader: (19)

i was gonna suggest esc too. but i dont think it would have as much effect as a bad lipo. try a different lipo. diff brand/rating

beebone

It's phyiscally losing notchy feeling when i turn the gear. Like I said the speed didn't lose at all, but the brake.
I's new new lipo pack, new ESC.

andrewdoherty

iTrader: (49)

Maybe you bumped a setting on your radio reducing brake strength?

ThunderPowerRC

The temps are within the range it should be. The only way to test the rotor is with a gauss meter. Same for the stator if you can check with a resistance meter. If one pole has gone bad you will see high resistance. Loosing cog can be caused by loss of rotor gauss or a stator starting to short.