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Old 08-03-2004, 04:49 PM   #1
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Default What should I expect from buying a Peak Vantage Touring - Surikarn Edition 10x1 motor

I have just ordered a peak surikarn v2 motor. (u guys should know what i am tlkaing about).

Since I am ordering it online, I just want to know what I should expect with my package. Any instructions, springs, etc. I just want to make sure no one rips me off. I have had some bad experiences buying motors in my neighbourhood.

I also heard something about getting an extra set of brushes with these motors. I want to know if that's true or not. It would be great if u guys can help me verify this.

Thanks for helping a newb that's tripping in RC.

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Old 08-03-2004, 04:53 PM   #2
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actually, since its going to take a few days for them to process my order, i might as well ask, should i get the surikarn or wait for the Spashett (excuse my spelling if its wrong) edition? any one have any details on the spashett edition? or when its going to come out?

Also, (probably posted in another thread), what's the difference b/w the surikarn, spashett and hara versions of the new v2 motors? I can't tell them apart except for color.
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Old 08-03-2004, 07:03 PM   #3
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Default Peak/Orion motors

The motor should arrive in that small cardboard black box, and should probably be sealed with a plastic wrap. Inside the motor should be padded with foam and should include a set of instructions. There will probably be no extra brushes. From what I have read, the first runs of the motors included an extra set because they would probably be in short supply at the LHS.

There are a few differences between the various peak/orion editions. Essentially, some have sprint brushes vs. enduro brushes, some have a 5 mm vs 4 mm web. The interesting motor is the Atsushi Hara edition. These tend to rev a lot higher than other versions, and need to be geared a tooth or two lower. You can obtain more information from orion's website, www.team-orion.ch.
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:10 PM   #4
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the name says it all, i'm a newb, so going to ask some pretty obvious questions. what's a "web" and a "LHS"?

is the "web" the armature width that I have been hearing so much about? that's suppose to create more torque more efficency?

if the hara revs much higher, will it have a problem getting off the starting line if i use enduro brushes with that motor?

(basically, i am just curious if the power output is actually higher w/ the hara)
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:21 PM   #5
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Don't mean to give you a hard time, but if you're really a newb do you really think you should get a Modified motor, and a 10x1 at that?

I would recommend if you're really a newb to stick to a stock motor....
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:28 PM   #6
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do you have an esc that can handle it?
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:28 PM   #7
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LHS=local hobby shop

web is the portion of the armature where the wire is wound. I forgot what it does to motor performance. In any case, I either use the regular vantage or the orion revolution motors. Either seem to work fine for my ability (which is marginal at best).

I have always used only the enduro brushes. I don't think that changing from enduros to sprints will make a difference off the line with the Hara motor if it is overgeared anyways. You simply should not gear the Hara the same as the revolution or the vantage.

Stick to the enduro brushes, especially if you're a newbie. You may want to get the fastest motor possible, but all that extra effort in time and money goes to waste if you can't run without crashing. If you're running touring car, definitely try to avoid overgearing. Even though the v2 motors are really durable, touring pushes the motor a lot. So, get a couple sets of enduro brushes and check them every 3-4 runs. When they end up burning, have the comm cut and replace the brushes. Good luck.
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:31 PM   #8
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I agree with Paul also. You may want to stick with stocks or 19 turns if you plan on racing. Most tracks will strongly suggest that you enter a rookie class, which will probably not allow modifieds.
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:36 PM   #9
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Onnetz: I havea futaba mc800. should handle down to 5 turns.

Paul: Yea, don't worry about it, i have been given a pretty hard time at the track already. So this pressure is really nothing.
I just want to check it out for myself. Since this motor looks really really good.

071: Now that I look at the abbrv LHS, i feel like an idiot not to get it the first time.
I run a tamiya ta04-trf. Using a 34Tpinion 128T spur. Since i can't read japanese (for some reason that's the only place with no english translations), I can only guess the table at the back of my instruction manual is telling me about gear ratios. It claims that I am running a 8:1.

So if there are any ta04 racers out there, help me verify that.

Whats the difference between the HS hara and the HT hara versions?
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:01 PM   #10
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I would be a little wary about the futaba control claiming to handle down to 5 turns. I have never run one, but I wouldn't place a lot of faith in running an 8,9 or 10 turn for 5 minutes in TC.

Not sure if there what the difference is between various Hara motors, I didn't even know that two versions existed. I'd hate to sound rude, but choosing between different v2 motors will not mae a difference for you. Also remember that entering the modified TC car can add up to a lot of money. The motors simply need a lot of maintenance, even with the v2's. You'll probably want to get a lathe also, and parts break a lot easier with the speed.
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:15 PM   #11
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Well the ESC is the "same one" that surikarn won the ifmar 2002 with. I have ran a 10x2 chrome on it and it has done well for a year until the com died.

Indeed for newb racers like me, won't make much of a difference. But every bit of knowledge helps if i am going to be good at this stuff one day.

I want to make a good decision. To do that, I want all the information I can get my hands on. I have no motor now, and I am eager to not to waste the beautiful summer weather here. (Its hard to comeby here.)

Well, i probably do about 10 packs max a week, so i just goto my lhs and get my com skimmed. $8 bucks for skim + new brushes isn't that bad. What else is different between taking care of a stock and a modified motor. I had a 23T stock as well before, and I was taking good care of it until it got stolen. (Beats the hell out of me as to who wants a used 23T motor).
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:45 PM   #12
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When I say that it doesn't make much of a difference which v2 you pick, that is a fact. They are all very good motors, you just need to gear the Hara a tooth or two smaller.

If your ESC is the Surikarn model, then I'm sure you're fine. I've never seen one run around here, that's all. I'm interested in why you need a 10x1. That's a pretty darn fast wind, and you risk overheating the brushes even though it is a V2. All you need to do is burn the brushes, even on the first run, and everything goes down hill. The motor will be slow, and the comm wear will accelerate very quickly. If you gear conservatively, then everything will be fine, and you might be able to get away with 10 runs without checking the brushes and comm. I've seen a guy run a vantage 9x2 out of the box, and he was blistering fast. But the next run, he looked like he was running a slow 14x2. Turns out that he burned his brushes on the first run. The point is that the V2's are durable only to a point, especially in TC.
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Old 08-03-2004, 10:05 PM   #13
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I understand that they are both very good motors. But different versions exist for reasons. I just want to know what they are. Whether they make differences to me specifically, is not always a concern. But I think I will stick to the surikarn edition, as u said, too much rpm for me may not be a good idea anyway. And the fact that my smallest pinion is a 34T (64 pitch)... is a bit distressing if I am going to run 10x1.

Yea, most people don't trust futaba esc. They would rather LRP instead. But at least to me, I don't see much of a difference.

I gear 1:8 with my belt drive car. I hope that is conservative. that's as far as my manual would recpmmend. (I am still somewhat afraid to go any lower on my gearing than the recommended)

I set the punch on my esc to a lower level, and am learning to ease the trigger more because i am now driving on a newb training track.... and its just almost all turns... and I don't have a lot of places to gun like mad.

Btw, I am just wondering, will drag braking give extra heat and damage the com ? (That's what someone told me when they said saw my comm and I told them i didn't over gear)

Also, this question probably has appeared in other threads, but what am I going to do w/ that schottky diode?
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Old 08-03-2004, 10:20 PM   #14
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With an 11x2, I gear around a 7.7-8.1 ratio, with 60mm foams. This is on a track with about a 140 foot straight, so I think your ratio is a little tall.

I don't think the drag brake killed your comm, it was probably heat from overgearing and/or not maintaining the comm. You don't need to change brushes every time you true the comm. Let's say that you run 10 hot runs on your motor without truing. If you true it, you will not remove the same amount of material as if you trued it twice over the same amount of runs. Chances are that you will remove a lot more material. In off-road, the difference isn't as apparent, but in TC hot winds will deteriorate very quickly once the brushes burn.

Sloder the schottky inline on the motor wires. Or, buy the novak GT7 harness with the diode inline.
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Old 08-03-2004, 11:19 PM   #15
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Hara was geared a 7.9:1 with a 10x1 when he won the Nats a few weeks ago. I usually run a ratio in the low 8's with a 10 and in the high 8's or low 9's with a 8 turn on rubber tires.

Thats said you have to use your trigger finger. You wont need to go full throttle very often in the infield with that gearing.
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