2LikesR/C Motorcycles!
12-09-2004, 03:28 PM
#166
Does anybody know of a better quality shock to put on the TT Ducati?? Mine has leaked from day 1 and yesterday it went "flat" while I was testing with the brushless motor. Thanks
12-10-2004, 08:26 AM
#167
There's no alternative that I know of. . . however CNR used to sell one individually. But it was exactly the same as the NF shock.
Ever since I've had the bike my rear shock hasn't leaked yet. Could you explain where it's leaking?
Ever since I've had the bike my rear shock hasn't leaked yet. Could you explain where it's leaking?
12-10-2004, 11:17 AM
#168
Hi Ian,
After taking it apart, it appears the rubber diaphragm had a "flat spot" in the mold or the shock was assembled incorrectly from the factory. In effect...the diaphragm did not have a perfectly round lip,therefore fluid was seeping past it. You would think the metal cap would keep fluid in also but I never could get it to stop. Tried tightening it and also tried using thread lock. It slowed a bit but kept leaking. Is the NF unit any better in your opinion and does it mount the same way?? Thanks
After taking it apart, it appears the rubber diaphragm had a "flat spot" in the mold or the shock was assembled incorrectly from the factory. In effect...the diaphragm did not have a perfectly round lip,therefore fluid was seeping past it. You would think the metal cap would keep fluid in also but I never could get it to stop. Tried tightening it and also tried using thread lock. It slowed a bit but kept leaking. Is the NF unit any better in your opinion and does it mount the same way?? Thanks
12-10-2004, 11:39 AM
#169
No the NF and TT shocks are basically the same. Geometry might differ a little bit on the external cap but internally they do the same thing.
I see now where your leak comes from - the diaphragm. Many of us have gotten rid of the diaphragm with the use of a 1/8th scale piggyback reservoir. This reduces the chances of the diaphragm getting ripped and flattened (because now there aren't any).
Picture of reservoir
I see now where your leak comes from - the diaphragm. Many of us have gotten rid of the diaphragm with the use of a 1/8th scale piggyback reservoir. This reduces the chances of the diaphragm getting ripped and flattened (because now there aren't any).
Picture of reservoir
12-10-2004, 01:38 PM
#170
Ok, that looks good.....can you pass on a part number and place to buy one. I have no local support for this kind of stuff. BTW, what weight shock oil are you guy's using and when using the reservoir what is the proper procedure for filling the shock, venting air, etc, etc....
Thanks
Thanks
12-10-2004, 03:15 PM
#171
Personally I got mine on ebay while searching "reservoir" in ebay under the radio control section.
What I got from ebay Installation instructions
However recently people have been getting them as a set of four, then splitting the costs between four people (it's cheaper that way).
Read this forum here for details on where to get them. Feel free to post there too if you are looking for someone to partner up with.
Reservoir forum
What I got from ebay Installation instructions
However recently people have been getting them as a set of four, then splitting the costs between four people (it's cheaper that way).
Read this forum here for details on where to get them. Feel free to post there too if you are looking for someone to partner up with.
Reservoir forum
12-10-2004, 08:23 PM
#172
Thanks Ian, much appreciated.
12-10-2004, 08:39 PM
#173
Oh yeah I almost forgot -
I use Mugen 7000wt. silicone diff oil for the rear shock stockwise. With the reservoir however the added room makes the damping a bit softer so 8000wt. would probably work well with the reservoir. I'm still using 7000wt.
I use Mugen 7000wt. silicone diff oil for the rear shock stockwise. With the reservoir however the added room makes the damping a bit softer so 8000wt. would probably work well with the reservoir. I'm still using 7000wt.
12-30-2004, 04:04 PM
#174
First Bike Suggestions ~ Your Input?
Ok guys - I've ridden real bikes for 25 years and have a few in the garage. Been racing RC cars for a full year. I just completed a google search and read everything on the 1/8 Kyosho HOR, the 1/5 Italian 501 and the 1/5 TT Yammy.
What is a good starter RC bike? Here's my take...............
I'm thinking the TT Yam as it is prebuilt and just needs your ESC, Motor and Radio. Tower has them at $239 with no tax or shipping. I like the aluminum frame and hear they are the orient knock-off of the 501. This runs 1/10 motors and packs.
The 1/8 Kyosho HOR looks a little squirrely and needs $100 worth of after market parts to settle it down. The HOR runs micro packages and would probably scream with a mamba system.
Few questions:
The HOR has injected plastic parts - what is the body material of the TT Yam? - What is the body material of the Italian 501?
Do you need to replace the stock rubber on the TT with better aftermarket tires?
What breaks or fails on these bikes - where is the weak link, the forks, gearbox, axle mounts>
TIA
bill in ca
What is a good starter RC bike? Here's my take...............
I'm thinking the TT Yam as it is prebuilt and just needs your ESC, Motor and Radio. Tower has them at $239 with no tax or shipping. I like the aluminum frame and hear they are the orient knock-off of the 501. This runs 1/10 motors and packs.
The 1/8 Kyosho HOR looks a little squirrely and needs $100 worth of after market parts to settle it down. The HOR runs micro packages and would probably scream with a mamba system.
Few questions:
The HOR has injected plastic parts - what is the body material of the TT Yam? - What is the body material of the Italian 501?
Do you need to replace the stock rubber on the TT with better aftermarket tires?
What breaks or fails on these bikes - where is the weak link, the forks, gearbox, axle mounts>
TIA
bill in ca
12-30-2004, 11:21 PM
#175
Tech Rookie
Mamba HOR Bike
I have the Mamba 8000Kv motor in mine running on Lipos @ 7.4V and its stupid fast. The bike is so light with Lipos that any throttle input with a little bit of grip results in a wheelie. You have to be so careful cornering with that much power on tap, light input and it slides, little more and over bars you go.
Besides the power system the bike is modified a bit, silicone insert in front, titanium forks, lexan bodywork, CF reinforced front fender, touring car shock from HPI threaded body type, soft tires, foam rear insert.
Its fun but not for everyone, its all plastic toy like so you dont get a high quality high speed bike until you turn it into one. It was never meant for this much power so the bike fights it. You can say its close to simulating Moto GP since those bikes have over 200hp and the rider has to fight to get the bike going in the right direction.
One more thing,
you dont want to spend much time painting it up to look so good because the paint is on the outside and it gets wrecked. I just use some touring car sticker set and make up a team over the white plastic.
Chris
Besides the power system the bike is modified a bit, silicone insert in front, titanium forks, lexan bodywork, CF reinforced front fender, touring car shock from HPI threaded body type, soft tires, foam rear insert.
Its fun but not for everyone, its all plastic toy like so you dont get a high quality high speed bike until you turn it into one. It was never meant for this much power so the bike fights it. You can say its close to simulating Moto GP since those bikes have over 200hp and the rider has to fight to get the bike going in the right direction.
One more thing,
you dont want to spend much time painting it up to look so good because the paint is on the outside and it gets wrecked. I just use some touring car sticker set and make up a team over the white plastic.
Chris
12-31-2004, 05:09 PM
#176
The full on "race" (that is if you can find people to compete with) package I recommend is Nuova Faor SF501. The parts are better.
The TT Yammy is basically a downgraded NF, and you'll have to get the treaded tires for it to perform well.
For both of these get a brushless motor system like the Novak SS.
The TT Ducati many people are buying nowadays because all the electronics are included, but the electronics are sub-par performers. You should just buy the previous two and equip the bike with your own electrics. The only reason I like this bike is because of the great bodywork.
On all these 1/5th bikes the bodies are lexan.
The TT Yammy is basically a downgraded NF, and you'll have to get the treaded tires for it to perform well.
For both of these get a brushless motor system like the Novak SS.
The TT Ducati many people are buying nowadays because all the electronics are included, but the electronics are sub-par performers. You should just buy the previous two and equip the bike with your own electrics. The only reason I like this bike is because of the great bodywork.
On all these 1/5th bikes the bodies are lexan.
05-05-2005, 03:34 AM
#177
Tech Rookie
Hi guy's I've been into rc cars & Trucks for years and I wan't to get the Nuova Faor, which I found for a great price from Crazy Nut Racing, but I can't get a reply from them. Has anyone delt with them? if so what was your feeling? Thanks
05-05-2005, 05:49 AM
#178
I've called Dave a few times and rarely had a problem. Sorry you are. It's possible he might be away from the office....quite possibly at a competition or show. Let us know , someone from this forum would probably be glad to help you get some answers.
05-05-2005, 02:28 PM
#179
Tech Rookie
What I'm after is, on there site the pic's of the Nuova the tires are slicks and from reviews I read (xtreme rc cars) the tires had tread on them, to get traction on the side walls the treaded tires where better. My friend has the tunder tiger with standard tires, if it's a cold day he has a great deal of trouble gatting it to stand up out of corners. So the information I'm after is, what tires does there kit come with?
05-05-2005, 02:44 PM
#180
TT comes with slicks, and despite the pictures you see, the NF comes with the treaded tires.
The TT slicks are a very hard compound, and break loose very easily. They last long though. The TT front tire is shaped a bit weird (sharp and wedge-like) to help you turn faster, but once you get the hang of it I suggest ditching it for a more stable, rounder profile front tire.
The treaded tires you can buy from GS racing:
http://www.gsracing.com/web/page.asp...ducts&catid=30
The fronts on these are the rounder profile. I suggest getting F/R 45 shores.
Another company named PMT makes slicks that are softer than the TT's and have the rounder profile like the GS's. Crazy Nut sells them. I recommend either the 20 or 30 shores. They have plenty of grip - almost too much. After a run with these you'll see how many rocks and dirt they pickup from the stickiness.
For gluing these puppies on the rims you'll find that regular CA glue doesn't last long. What we do is use shoo goo and spread it into the bead with a tooth pick. It really holds well for a long time (~6 months).
One last tip -
Be smart, ride safe, and make sure your insurance is up to date
The TT slicks are a very hard compound, and break loose very easily. They last long though. The TT front tire is shaped a bit weird (sharp and wedge-like) to help you turn faster, but once you get the hang of it I suggest ditching it for a more stable, rounder profile front tire.
The treaded tires you can buy from GS racing:
http://www.gsracing.com/web/page.asp...ducts&catid=30
The fronts on these are the rounder profile. I suggest getting F/R 45 shores.
Another company named PMT makes slicks that are softer than the TT's and have the rounder profile like the GS's. Crazy Nut sells them. I recommend either the 20 or 30 shores. They have plenty of grip - almost too much. After a run with these you'll see how many rocks and dirt they pickup from the stickiness.
For gluing these puppies on the rims you'll find that regular CA glue doesn't last long. What we do is use shoo goo and spread it into the bead with a tooth pick. It really holds well for a long time (~6 months).
One last tip -
Be smart, ride safe, and make sure your insurance is up to date
Last edited by grymg; 05-05-2005 at 02:50 PM.