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Old 08-02-2004, 12:51 PM   #31
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Originally posted by Randy Caster
I got 28 secs of free spin with the wheels on out of my SD, and about 6 out of my XXXS with fresh rebuilds.
On your Losi, did you just do fresh rebuilds of the DIFFS? What about your belt, how loose do you have it? Any special bearings and/or bearing oils?
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Old 08-02-2004, 01:01 PM   #32
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I was thinking about this the other day. It seems to me what you guys are saying about being able to blow on the car to make it move would be a lot better indicator than how long it spins. If it spins a long time it could just be from momentum of heavier parts taking longer to slow down. Werent they talking about having table races at Cleveland or something. Runing the cars down tables with no motors. Just see how little you have to pick up the table to get it going.
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Old 08-02-2004, 01:47 PM   #33
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:30 PM   #34
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Yeah, I think our cars are a little more expensive though. To bad that are not as durable.
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:45 PM   #35
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I don't think we can compare 'spin time' on the internet.

For one thing, wheels are different.
Another, we have different ways of spinning tires.

I'm going to time my car going downhill with no motor power.
Then rebuild it and see what happens.

I bet the difference will be negligible.
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:53 PM   #36
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Well, really, all of this is pointless (the bs about spinning for 1:30, and 30 seconds this, 28 seconds that). All you have to do is take of the wheels of your car, take the pinion off, and rotate the spur with your finger, it you cant really feel anything (resistance or any drag) then you are set. As long as it feels really smooth and you cant feel anything holding the spur from your spinning it, you are good.

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Old 08-02-2004, 03:41 PM   #37
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Someone asked me at the track if my Xray had a very free drive train and I really didn't know the answer but I said "yes" anyway. Later I took the pinion off and put it on the ground and gave it a little shove and it rolled quite a long distance and slowed very gently and gradually. It seems to have almost no rolling resistance, I was very impressed. Now when people ask I can confidently say "yes" this Xray has a very free drive train.
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Old 08-26-2004, 04:49 PM   #38
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you say he breaks the teeth off of the gears in the transmission. Does he take a hobby knife to them and shave them down? Right now I can get my drive train to spin at best 3 sec by spinning the drive shaft. That is without tires on it. I have used all of the lightest parts you can use on the tc3.
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:31 PM   #39
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Default Freeing-up bearings

-Take all your bearings out of your car.
-Then take one of the shields off of each bearing.
-Throughly spray the bearing with motor spray to eliminate all grease inside the bearing.....do this for all your bearings.
-Then spray simple green in your bearings and using a tooth brush, scrub the bearings (the side with no shield) to further remove any grease.
-Then spray a lot of motor spray into a paper cup or something and place all your bearings into that and let them sit until all the motor spray has evaporated.
-Next, take a very high quality bearing oil and put 4 drops into your bearings....12-3-6-9 o'clock. and spin them to spread it around.
-Then re-install all your bearings into your car with the one shielded side facing out-side so that no dirt can come into the un-shielded bearing.

Doing this will immensely free-up your drive train.
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:36 PM   #40
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its not that my drive train isnt free. I have ablosutly no mass behind it. I am running acer bearings that are cleaned out and my diff cases have been modified from what I have learned on the internet. I am just wondering if there is anything that can be done to the gears such as grind them down so there is very little square teeth or is it better to have full edges on the gears such as new ones. I got the idea of shaving them from the tamiya 415. it has square belt teeth which supposibly helps free up the drive train.
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Old 08-26-2004, 06:14 PM   #41
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Default Acer bearings

I to run acer ceramics on the CGM, but is considering mafiaracer's suggestion on taking the shields off one side.
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Old 08-26-2004, 08:16 PM   #42
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What is better, diff and input gears that have been worn in or the gears that have been ground down to make the teeth smaller?
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Old 08-26-2004, 08:31 PM   #43
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Neither, you shim the gears so they spin freely.
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Old 08-26-2004, 10:12 PM   #44
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$0.00
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Old 08-27-2004, 10:37 AM   #45
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lol you guys are funny.
1.is it gona be worth it unless you got suspension/tire/insert/wheel/motor/battery/gearing/weight distribution/body/driving skills etc at its best surely its not gona make a damn bit of diffrence.

2.my tamiya evo2 is shaft drive yet it weighs in at 1650 and most of this is drivetrain weight cause the diffs size etc.
the drivetrain can go on for 2 minutes its not the fastest tho.

3.transmission isnt the most important thing on the car.the suspension and wheel tyre and insert combo are and driving skill.
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