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Old 12-28-2010, 08:40 AM   #1
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Default Rounding the edge of carbon plates

I heard today at my local track a suggestion that I should round the edge of my carbon chassis and then put a layer of CA glue . The idea is that it will make the life of the chassis longer because round edges do a much better job at absorbing hits then square ones . I'm sure you guys are informed about this process , so do you think it's necessary and useful ? Especially because I run a pretty old car in competition - Xray T1 Factoy Kit .


Any advice is helpful
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:43 AM   #2
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I believe that it is VERY important. It will help keep the chassis from splintering in a hard crash.
The method I use is to apply a thin layer of glue and then sand the edge.apply a second thin coat and sand again. You will be very happy with the result.Be sure to NOT breath in ANY of the dust of carbon fiber.Good luck!
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Old 12-28-2010, 08:46 AM   #3
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I use a Black and Decker mouse sander and cut a beveled edge with a fine grit paper. Then CA to seal it. Similar to the same idea as what Hairy is doing.

Remember to wear a particle mask because the dust from sanding that stuff will wreak havok on your lungs. You dont want to breathe even a little of that.
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Old 12-28-2010, 09:32 AM   #4
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I've found that taking an hobby knife and scraping the leading edge also works.
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:01 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopyrc View Post
I use a Black and Decker mouse sander and cut a beveled edge with a fine grit paper. Then CA to seal it. Similar to the same idea as what Hairy is doing.

Remember to wear a particle mask because the dust from sanding that stuff will wreak havok on your lungs. You dont want to breathe even a little of that.
Sweet! You taught a mouse how to sand your edges.....You think I can train one to rebuild ball differentials or change out shocks, that would be really handy!
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:10 AM   #6
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Be careful sanding the bottom edge to a certain degree, a very beveled edge can give you false readings when taking ride height.
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:11 AM   #7
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Good day!

Here is a link to a how to for chassis prep

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:13 AM   #8
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And of course wet sand it so its smoother and less of a mess.
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Old 12-28-2010, 11:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCbud View Post
Good day!

Here is a link to a how to for chassis prep

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...rder=0&thold=0
Exactly...that is where I learned the art of chassis prep.
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:09 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Exactly...that is where I learned the art of chassis prep.
And here is a little tip I learned from the owner of TOP racing.

Take a cardboard box that your chassis and parts will fit in. Spray the inside of the box with CA kicker. You can use the pump type of spray or the aerosol type of kicker. You don't have to coat the complete inside of the box, just spray some on all sides and the bottom of the inside of the box. After wet sanding and getting your edges just the way you like them, coat the sanded edges with CA and then place the chassis or parts in the box with the kicker sprayed on the inside, close the box and wait maybe 30 to 45 seconds and remove your part. The edges will not only be dry but they will look like glass!! Speeds up the CA drying process will providing a great finish to the edges. Very neat trick. Thanks Vincent!!
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Old 12-28-2010, 12:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
And here is a little tip I learned from the owner of TOP racing.

Take a cardboard box that your chassis and parts will fit in. Spray the inside of the box with CA kicker. You can use the pump type of spray or the aerosol type of kicker. You don't have to coat the complete inside of the box, just spray some on all sides and the bottom of the inside of the box. After wet sanding and getting your edges just the way you like them, coat the sanded edges with CA and then place the chassis or parts in the box with the kicker sprayed on the inside, close the box and wait maybe 30 to 45 seconds and remove your part. The edges will not only be dry but they will look like glass!! Speeds up the CA drying process will providing a great finish to the edges. Very neat trick. Thanks Vincent!!
Ok you just got my vote for the most helpful hint of this thread so far.

Edit: Actually the CRC link says it pretty well.
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Old 12-28-2010, 01:02 PM   #12
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I round my edges with a sanding drum on my dremel, a quick pass over all the edges top and bottom then I seal my edges with blue threadlock, works just as well as CA and there's no worries if u screw up, simply wipe it off and do it again. A Q-tip works great for an applicator. Give it a shot, you won't go back to CA, lol.
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Old 12-28-2010, 03:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crashby View Post
And here is a little tip I learned from the owner of TOP racing.

Take a cardboard box that your chassis and parts will fit in. Spray the inside of the box with CA kicker. You can use the pump type of spray or the aerosol type of kicker. You don't have to coat the complete inside of the box, just spray some on all sides and the bottom of the inside of the box. After wet sanding and getting your edges just the way you like them, coat the sanded edges with CA and then place the chassis or parts in the box with the kicker sprayed on the inside, close the box and wait maybe 30 to 45 seconds and remove your part. The edges will not only be dry but they will look like glass!! Speeds up the CA drying process will providing a great finish to the edges. Very neat trick. Thanks Vincent!!

Could you rephrase some terms such as "wet sanding" , "coat" ? I believe I handle English very well , but some tech terms are very new to me

This sound like a very smart tip , but I don't really understand it . Also , you are using some CA spray ?
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Old 12-28-2010, 04:16 PM   #14
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Wet sanding - the surface that you are sanding is wet, and rinsed frequently while you are sanding.

Coat, the way it is used here means that the CA glue is re-applied after it has dried and been wet sanded. So Glue, Wet sand, Glue again, Wet sand and polish.

I get a great edge just from sanding it then gluing it. Yes just once. Maybe these other guys are more demanding of a perfect finish than I am.

The spray is a Zap Kicker or other CA glue accellerant that is not applied to the chassis but to the Cardboard box that the chassis is placed in. The fumes from the accellerant on the cardboard make the glue on the chassis dry faster and voila. Hope that helps.
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Old 12-28-2010, 04:58 PM   #15
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Thanks everybody

I'll do that on the T1 and on the M18 PRO , probably the simplest sanding and glueing
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