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Old 07-31-2004, 02:10 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by hawker
nothing is wrong with it lol, i'm actually looking ar buying oen, but as 5am said, no good for 1/10th scale racing unless you want to run a realistic mini lol


you would have a weight advantage over the competition though
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Old 07-31-2004, 11:31 AM   #17
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From what I hear, the micros can go faster than the 1/10s.
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Old 07-31-2004, 02:16 PM   #18
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And I'm sure we will see Neil racing one soon..
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Old 07-31-2004, 04:26 PM   #19
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Think a 1/18 would be fair competition against a 1/10 scale?
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Old 07-31-2004, 04:46 PM   #20
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From what I hear, the micros can go faster than the 1/10s.

I can't hardly believed on that?...

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Old 07-31-2004, 05:16 PM   #21
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depends wat equipment you run! but I know those mini can get up and bogey, their main advantage is their weight.
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Old 07-31-2004, 06:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by hawker
depends wat equipment you run! but I know those mini can get up and bogey, their main advantage is their weight.
thats very true with the proper equipment these little mini's can get really fast
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Old 07-31-2004, 07:06 PM   #23
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If it is possible then handling on these mini's might be a little problem considering the speed and aerodynamic design of the car?.
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Old 08-01-2004, 02:16 AM   #24
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the xray m18 can definitely go faster than a mod car, i've seen it happen.

11V li-po pack
brushless motor
insane speed on the straight

then you get to the corner...
with foamies, traction roll at 1/4 speed
with rubbers, spin out as soon as you turn in

but down the straight!!! WOW

btw: don't try to scale this up to 1/10 touring, i've been told the li-po's can't handle the current draw
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Old 08-01-2004, 02:33 AM   #25
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That's why you have to run them in parallel for the TC's.

Back to the shaft cars, the R3 seems to have a good rep. Replacement parts are pretty difficult to get a hold of though (speedtech is the only place I've seen in US). Evo4 is just beautiful, if the price doesn't bother you then go for it.
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:04 PM   #26
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I'm interested, why shaft? The current trend shows a lot of cars going belts, and I personally love them. Losi XXXS, Tamiya 415, new Corally RDX, etc. are all great cars. I've owned shaft and don't like the torque steer.
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:09 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally posted by edseb
I'm interested, why shaft? I've owned shaft and don't like the torque steer.
Don't know but for me it really depends ont eh racers driving style.. shaft cars are better that belts especially durign race. let say you're into race and your car drive belts snap?!! your race is over unlike the shaft car nothing to worry.. just my $.02 opinion..
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:16 PM   #28
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I've owned shaft including the Yok CGM and this simply isn't true. The aluminum shaft is heavy and has rotation mass. I've snapped a big diameter carbon shaft and the thinner one twisted too much. The drive cups blow out too. I had to upgrade to Team Suzuki milled cups. At around $45 on the Yokomo site, I was bummed. The are even discontinued now. So for racing, I was out due to shaft issues. I know TC3 owners have had similar problems. I've had less issues with drive train on belt cars. I'm not saying belt cars don't have problems, they do. I just think they're smoother. My point is, why make a decision on this one characteristic?
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:44 PM   #29
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I have several Tamiya Evos and have had TC3 in the past. I have to agree to someone earlier in this post: TC3 is a really good car on a good driver's hand. I never did. I tried it for awhile and actually hated it.

I may sound biased but I preferred Tamiya instead of any other brand and as far as parts concerned, I would probably go with Pro 4 plus HPI has just came out with thicker chassis to fight chassis tweaking.

Here are some pros and cons of EVO 4 and Pro 4 that I have read in the past:

EVo 4:

*Pros: easy to drive out of the box, BLUE, enclosed (parking lot, dusty, outdoor tracks) and open (carpet, indoor tracks) choice on gearbox enclosure, 3-piece main shaft system, multiple shock arrangement on the lower arms, TRF shocks .
*Cons: Expensive, soft steel screws (strips easily), steel turnbuckles (pain in the ars to adjust especially with the thin wrench that comes with it), front arms breaks/not as durable as previous Evos, expensive (and limited edition) titanium screw set, TRF shocks is not blue

Pro 4:
*Pros:Purple!, cheaper than any other shaft drive cars out there except for Yok SD, parts are widely available, competitive car out of the box (not sure about easy to drive out of the box though many Pro 4 and HPI enthusiast will probably say it is...I don't own one so I can't say anything), aluminum turnbluckles, stainless steel screw set (that won't strip as easily as Tamiya's)
*Cons:Chassis tweaking, Purple!, front arm breaking (I witness this myself), Stock Rubber is (fill in the blanks yourself), revisions, revisions, revisions....how many more new products they need to purchase in order to make it a better car?
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Old 08-02-2004, 07:01 PM   #30
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I HAD A TC-3....SOLD IT. ALL THOSE SHAFT CARS ARE WAY OVERLY PRICED, BUT YOU DO GET TORQUE STEER FOR FREE! LOL
I'D GET A XXX-S G+ I'VE SEEN NEW ONES SELL FOR AS LITTLE AS $210. YOU'LL GET EVERTHING YOU NEED IN ONE BOX...IT COMES WITH A GREAT BODY (ALPHA), RIMS...TIRES/INSERTS (FOR PRACTICE OF COURSE) ONLY HOP UP YOU'LL WANT IS THE BLACK BELT KIT. THEN ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS BUY THE HOT TIRE/INSERTS FOR WHICH EVER TRACK YOU RACE AT.
YOU'LL HAVE TO BUY TIRES/INSERTS/BODY FOR ALL THOSE OTHER KITS.
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