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Ask Keven Hebert, TeamAssociated / Reedy / ApexRC

Old 12-19-2011, 06:20 AM
  #346  
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+3

But it is simple:
- take off traction from front,
- left rear as is,
- take off some traction from rear as last step.

Front:
- can add some ca glue on front tires to prevent traction roll,
- less time additive on tires and/or not 100% width of tire, maybe 75%
It take some grip in cornering, car will slip on CA glue, no roll.

This:
- less drop (less down stop),
- harder spring one step up or not, it depend what need.
It take some grip at braking, entering corner, less weight transwered from rear to front (less grip).

This:
- move up front camber link (on tower from 3 to 5) (I do not like 7),
- add washer on ballstud on c-hub,
- move up a-arm mounts.
It made less roll on chassis, car will be more flat in corner, overall less grip.

Also put at front harder sway bar and left softer springs (silvers).

Usually I left rear as is, silvers + black sway bar, or greens springs and silver sway bar.


But it is for me, I like when car push when too fast.

But I like what Keven will wrote
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:29 PM
  #347  
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Originally Posted by burgboyz
Hello Kevin.
I must believe that most of your posted setups are after the mains or are the heats that you ran the quickest and most laps.
I have struggled in the past as traction starts to build throughout the day.

So,I am curious...
After you arrive at a track and tune your car to your liking...as traction is coming up during the heats, what are the common adjustments you make to stay competitive and improve the car with the additional traction?
Thanks,
Jon
This is a very good question, sorry I only saw it this late, I will try to be more on point with this thread ! . The setups posted are usualy what I found was best after a race. Usualy the latest setup it my starting point for the next race. Since most races I go to usualy get a good amount of grip at the end of the meeting I do not change my setup much. The one thing I tend to play with a lot is the amount of droop. It will change the way your car react and will reduce or increase weight transfer.

Usualy I will start with a little more uptravel on a green track and see what the car does after 2 runs when I am comfortable with the layout. Then as the traction come up I will change very minor stuff like droop ( little less if car rolls too much) also, I play with the front link for less camber gain if car gets too hard to drive but in general droop and the way you apply tires sauce will be enough. I will sauce let say 75% of front tires. The one thing I see ofter is people making their car stiffer to stop traction rolling but in most case it will only get worst before you are going to work the tires even more and will traction roll even more. Chassis drag is not a bad thing sometimes as it prevent you from traction rolling so usualy when it traction rolls I will make my car softer.

So to answer your question, at a big race I try not to change my car much other than droop and a shim here and there to make the car easier to drive and also tire sause a little less front if the car is too hard to drive and a shorter amount of time in the front if necessary to make the car easier to drive.

Hope this helps
Keven
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:42 PM
  #348  
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Keven, I know on your setups you posted 1.5mm uptravel, What would your recommendation be to begin with on a high bit carpet track in droop #'s front and rear ?

Also, when the bite comes up and you adjust the droop setting, do you adjust the front, back or both to prevent the traction roll ?........

Say I start at 4 front and rear, and the bite comes up and my car starts traction rolling ...... which end and which way should I go on the droop # to help counteract the traction rolling ?

Thanks,

Rich
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Old 01-12-2012, 04:43 PM
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Hey Kevin saw your race in New Rochelle last weekend and your car was dialed. Just a couple of questions . How do you determine your FDR? Do you use or "tune" your motor with different rotors? What type and how do you charge your batteries for a race ? And do you use expo on your steering or throttle? Yor car was on point and your driving was surgical.
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Old 01-12-2012, 05:28 PM
  #350  
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Keven,
What esc settings would you recommend for pan car using the lrp sxx comp v2 and what timing advance on the motor? We are Running on a smaller tight carpet Track. Motor is a Fantom ion3.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:52 PM
  #351  
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Originally Posted by Keven H
This is a very good question, sorry I only saw it this late, I will try to be more on point with this thread ! . The setups posted are usualy what I found was best after a race. Usualy the latest setup it my starting point for the next race. Since most races I go to usualy get a good amount of grip at the end of the meeting I do not change my setup much. The one thing I tend to play with a lot is the amount of droop. It will change the way your car react and will reduce or increase weight transfer.

Usualy I will start with a little more uptravel on a green track and see what the car does after 2 runs when I am comfortable with the layout. Then as the traction come up I will change very minor stuff like droop ( little less if car rolls too much) also, I play with the front link for less camber gain if car gets too hard to drive but in general droop and the way you apply tires sauce will be enough. I will sauce let say 75% of front tires. The one thing I see ofter is people making their car stiffer to stop traction rolling but in most case it will only get worst before you are going to work the tires even more and will traction roll even more. Chassis drag is not a bad thing sometimes as it prevent you from traction rolling so usualy when it traction rolls I will make my car softer.

So to answer your question, at a big race I try not to change my car much other than droop and a shim here and there to make the car easier to drive and also tire sause a little less front if the car is too hard to drive and a shorter amount of time in the front if necessary to make the car easier to drive.

Hope this helps
Keven
Thanks for the reply. Better late than never!
It was good to hear/confirm that it can be as simple as that. As long as the car is set up properly/close to begin with of course.

I have been concentrating on shims, shock angles, springs, oil, and decreasing sauce on fronts. I will start paying more attention to small droop changes on my practice nights. Drilling my shock caps and swapping out the pistons and bladders made a big improvement.

Please keep posting your setups. Testing the subtle nuances between setups keeps me going back to the track!

Next chapter...Roll Center
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:14 AM
  #352  
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What does it mean on your IIC 12th setup when you wrote 2mm on top upper arm and what brand 20K do run on kingpins

Also what product do you use for diff oil in gear diff on your TC car and maybe a starting point for asphalt or carpet for that gear diff oil

Thank u
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Old 01-13-2012, 10:13 AM
  #353  
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do ceramic bearings make that big differenc in VTA or 17.5 blinky?
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Old 01-13-2012, 02:01 PM
  #354  
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Originally Posted by cneyedog
Keven, I know on your setups you posted 1.5mm uptravel, What would your recommendation be to begin with on a high bit carpet track in droop #'s front and rear ?

Also, when the bite comes up and you adjust the droop setting, do you adjust the front, back or both to prevent the traction roll ?........

Say I start at 4 front and rear, and the bite comes up and my car starts traction rolling ...... which end and which way should I go on the droop # to help counteract the traction rolling ?

Thanks,

Rich
I usualy start at 5 rear and 6 front on most track and tune from there ! on high bite I usualy end up on 6 rear and 7 front. I also use droop to change the balance of the car in the turns. For exemple when the car gets loose mid corner I take some out of the rear to prevent rear weight to transfer over the front. So to help traction roll you want to go to a higher number on the ae gauge or less uptravel in other words. Hope this helps

Originally Posted by pressure
Hey Kevin saw your race in New Rochelle last weekend and your car was dialed. Just a couple of questions . How do you determine your FDR? Do you use or "tune" your motor with different rotors? What type and how do you charge your batteries for a race ? And do you use expo on your steering or throttle? Yor car was on point and your driving was surgical.
I usualy run mod so I don,t play much with FDR but when running blinky, when you find a setup you like you should not need to change much from tract to track other than a tooth or 2. As for timing I was running 45 and ran stock rotor with 4.0 in New Rochelle but since I only get to run 17.5 blinky 2-3 times a year I don't get to play much with it. As for Expo I run anywhere from 0 to minus 10 depending on the track and how the car feels.

Originally Posted by Robudda723
Keven,
What esc settings would you recommend for pan car using the lrp sxx comp v2 and what timing advance on the motor? We are Running on a smaller tight carpet Track. Motor is a Fantom ion3.


Thanks for the help.
I am not sure what the fantom is based on but I assume it is based of a trinity and I have never ran 17.5 in 1/12 so my guess could be off here. But here is what I think is a good place to start : 0/10/10/2 and work from there.


Originally Posted by Infinite 12th
What does it mean on your IIC 12th setup when you wrote 2mm on top upper arm and what brand 20K do run on kingpins

Also what product do you use for diff oil in gear diff on your TC car and maybe a starting point for asphalt or carpet for that gear diff oil

Thank u
The 2mm on top arm means that there is 2mm in between bulkhead and the reactive castor block so that gives you a longer top arm.

As for the gear diff We run anywhere from 27.5-45 wt shock oil. I tend to like my car on the lighter side. Next time I run on asphalt I will start with 27.5. But that is in AE gear diff only. Spec R and yokomo will be different to achieve the same feeling


Originally Posted by DARKSIDE
do ceramic bearings make that big differenc in VTA or 17.5 blinky?
Ceramic Bearing are nice beacause they last quite a bit longer but it will not really had any performance gain over a still good working regular bearing ! I think the best thing to do is to use ceramic in the drive line, (diff bearing and layshaft) and those should last a season !
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:33 PM
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My bad. It is actually a fantom 10.5 not a 17.5.

Thanks again
Rob
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Old 01-13-2012, 03:47 PM
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Thanks Kevin

One more question please

Is there track/environment to run the AE gear diff in front

If not how come?

If so what oil would you start off with there?

Thank you
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Old 01-14-2012, 08:56 AM
  #357  
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Originally Posted by Robudda723
My bad. It is actually a fantom 10.5 not a 17.5.

Thanks again
Rob
OK sorry I wasnt sure. I would think with a 10.5 I would start with 0/10/6/2 and around 35/80 for gear and mild on timing and see from there. Once again it is just a guess because I have not run the class but I think it is a safe place to start. hope this helps

Originally Posted by Infinite 12th
Thanks Kevin

One more question please

Is there track/environment to run the AE gear diff in front

If not how come?

If so what oil would you start off with there?

Thank you
There is certain track a gear diff feels good ! to me on tight and technical track the car gets in the turn better with a gear diff but on bigger track sweeping corner I like the spool better. Lately I have been going back and forth with both. The best thing to do is to use putty in the diff because it is the stiffest. If you want to use oil you want to use 500 000 ! but then when it warms up it gets thinner and chan ges througout the run.
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:24 AM
  #358  
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Keven, have you done any testing with 12R5.2 inline chassis, but with the battery in the standard transverse position? If so, how did you like it?
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Old 01-14-2012, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71
Keven, have you done any testing with 12R5.2 inline chassis, but with the battery in the standard transverse position? If so, how did you like it?
HI James,

I have not be able to get to it but I have thought abouth it several time. From past experience I think the battery in the standard position will have a little more steering but will be a little less stable but I could be mistaken but if you do please let me know how it works for you !
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Old 01-14-2012, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Keven H
There is certain track a gear diff feels good ! to me on tight and technical track the car gets in the turn better with a gear diff but on bigger track sweeping corner I like the spool better. Lately I have been going back and forth with both. The best thing to do is to use putty in the diff because it is the stiffest. If you want to use oil you want to use 500 000 ! but then when it warms up it gets thinner and chan ges througout the run.
I can't find the xceed putty diff on the net but would this work fine

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...+putty&pg_no=1

Anyone have the xceed link for the putty?

Or just get the artist kneaded rubber ...lol



Thanks
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