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Old 12-21-2010, 04:04 AM   #1
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I am new to the on road side of rc as well as the elecric side. I am waiting for my new HPI Sprint2Sport to arrive and had a serious question. I dont want to go lipo so please...I was wondering a good charger and battery? I dont want to break the bank with my first venture in on road. My goal is only a driveway street race and meeting people at sugarowl. Maybe one day I will get into a real race but for now I am going to try and get my foot in the door.

So any suggestions on what direction I need to head in a good charger and battery. Thanks everyone for the help.
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Old 12-21-2010, 04:49 AM   #2
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Hum...

Not sure why you don't want lipos if don't have any batteries yet ? Nowadays you can get decent lipos for less than 35 bucks, just take a look at the yeah racing packs.

After that, I recommend this little charger: "ripmax prodigy 2", just google it.

That needs to be plugged on a 12V source, like any other charger. You can charge really almost any batteries with it so it's a safe investment. You can find about 47 clones of this charger because they're all made by one manufacturer.Only the price differs. This manufacturer also offers similar chargers under different brands, that will work with 110, 220 or 12V. Example :http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/green-r...-charger-v1-0/

Maybe the cheapest solution would be to come at your local track first. I know if anyone would ask me nicely, I would gladly give him-her 5 nimh packs and my nimh charger for the price of a thank you.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:56 AM   #3
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By your post it seems like you think lipo will be the expensive route? You can get inexpensive lipos and a lipo chargers that will work great. When you're thinking about making an investment you should think about getting out of the investment too. You'll be able to sell a lipo charger and battery. There's not much of a market for NiMH anymore. Lipo's in on road aren't the "new" technology anymore, it's the standard. I just want you to get the most for your money. Also the lipo pack will last you a lot longer that any NiMH. I have attached links to a couple of chargers and a battery that will get you going for around $100.

AC/DC Chargers

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYTG2&P=FR

or

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXTCK1&P=ML

Battery

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXUUE5&P=ML

Good luck with your purchase...
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:16 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Dill004 View Post
I am new to the on road side of rc as well as the elecric side. I am waiting for my new HPI Sprint2Sport to arrive and had a serious question. I dont want to go lipo so please...I was wondering a good charger and battery? I dont want to break the bank with my first venture in on road. My goal is only a driveway street race and meeting people at sugarowl. Maybe one day I will get into a real race but for now I am going to try and get my foot in the door.

So any suggestions on what direction I need to head in a good charger and battery. Thanks everyone for the help.
Nexus racing/raceway is the closest onroad electric racing facility to you. I would check the place out and see what products people are using. If you see something there that you like there is a good chance they will have it in the shop for sale.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:34 PM   #5
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Thanks guys..all the advise is great and I am still reading into on road and I think I have jumped the gun...Lipos are the standard now. I just am worried about the dangers of lipos. I am the plug in and leave type b/c of my nitros.

All of the advice is great guys and I will keep reading into lipos.

I do want to get to a local on road but it will be after the holidays.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:43 PM   #6
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LiPo's arent as dangerous as alot of people make them out to be. 99% of the videos of lipo fires or explosions on YouTube are forced situations. Dead shorts, Drastic overcharging etc. I have been running lipos for years now and have only had 1 pack fail. It puffed up from bein discharged too low. I was using it in a bump box and didnt have a LVC or LVA. Im not 100% sure if the HPI ESC has a LVC or not. With most of the newer chargers they have a safety time limit set at usually 120minutes. I have had lipos on my charger for 3 days.. I'll start the charger and check it periodically but if something happens and I get pulled away the charger will cut itself off.. 1 added item I would consider purchasing is a lipo sack. I always charge in the sack "just in case"
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:12 PM   #7
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It puffed up from bein discharged too low. I was using it in a bump box and didnt have a LVC or LVA. Im not 100% sure if the HPI ESC has a LVC or not.
Ok cool that makes me feel better. But I dont know what LVC or LVA is. LoL like I said I am a noob and dont have a handle on the acronyms. Sorry guys for the noob stuff but I am loving the help and kindness. MY LHS kinda sucks on helping with questions and information. So thanks again.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:23 PM   #8
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Ok cool that makes me feel better. But I dont know what LVC or LVA is. LoL like I said I am a noob and dont have a handle on the acronyms. Sorry guys for the noob stuff but I am loving the help and kindness. MY LHS kinda sucks on helping with questions and information. So thanks again.
Dont appologize for anything.. we were all new to this at one time or another.

LVC= Low Voltage Cutoff, the ESC has circuitry built in to protect the battery from being over discharged. Its usually set at 6.0Volts

LVA= Low Voltage Alarm, most are audible alarms that signal that you have reached the maximum safe discharge of the battery.

With a lipo you dont want to discharge below 3.0 volts per cell.. so a 2s ( 2 cell) would be 6.0 Volts.

With Lipos you will notice longer run times, punchier throttle and brake response and less of a performance fall off as the pack drains. They really are the way to go nowadays and have come way down in price over the years.
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:58 AM   #9
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Seriously, even if the speed controller you'll be using has no Low Voltage cutoff, I would not be worried at all. When the lipo reaches 6,5 V-ish, it will suddenly make your car so slow that only maybe a 7 year old would keep the car crawling on track.

Even then, the worst that can happen is your battery dies, and it won't ignite. All of the lipo fires I have seen happened during charge and with the wrong program. Except that one time in a durango where one CVD pin came out and basically dug into the battery.

Long story short : just go lipo.

If you have the slightest amount of common sense and a good lipo charging bag it will be 8 times safer than, say, a 4200 nimh.
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Old 12-22-2010, 09:42 AM   #10
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Whats up. Hope u get into on road rc . U will love the scene if ur detailed and competative. The guys at nexus r great guys they can and will help u all they can to make u a rc addic. Lol
But save urself some time and money and get a turnigy batt&charger.4000 ma pack and 6a charger/balancer for about 50 shipped. Charger works great and batterys r flawless.
Go to hobbyking.com abd its click,click from there
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Old 12-22-2010, 10:18 AM   #11
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For the money, you can't beat the Turnigy batteries, especially since they now have a US based warehouse.
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Old 12-22-2010, 01:44 PM   #12
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Yeah I am definatley a r/c addic. I have 3 nitro trucks and the old HPI Micro Rs4(but its AA battaries)

Cool thanks for all the advise and help. I am looking all around for the lipos and notice that they are not as costly as I thought.

So one more question...When I am looking at a charger and it states that it will charge lipo do i still need a balancer^^?

Sorry 2 questions more...And for on road should I be looking at 2s(cell?) 3, 4, or however it is done?

Thanks again guys and I am going to try and get to nexus after the 1st and check out the whole scene.
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:02 PM   #13
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balancer is good to have. but it really depends on the quality of the pack. For the first 3 years of me using lipos, I didn't have a balancer. when I finally did get one I found out that my Orion Platinums were only off by .03V. Which is amazing for 3 years and over 150 cycles. My cheaper Blue lipos needs to be balanced every 5-8 cycles and my turnigys can usually last 15-20 cycles before they are off more than .02V..

as for your question for how many cells... it all depends on how fast u wanna go. for sanctioned racing then its only 2S. if you want to go ballistic, then 3S+.
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:10 PM   #14
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Depending on the charger it will have a built in balancer.... The Accucel 6 and 8 that Hobby King sells have a built in balancer. I have a Venom Pro and a cheap Imax B6. Both have balancers built in. The HK chargers and lipos are great for the price. As far as cell counts.. just go 2S. ROAR and IFMAR both have 2s limits... Plus a 3s in a touring car would just be NASTY!!.. My super stock late model on 2s covers a 266' centerline oval in just over 5 second..... and still has more left on the trigger... 2S is all ya need.....
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:23 PM   #15
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Plus a 3s in a touring car would just be NASTY!!..
My ta05r 7700kv 3S is on the verge of breaking 150kph... (93mph) after that then its onto 4S to try and break the 100mph barrier.
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