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Old 08-06-2014, 11:49 PM   #10546
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Originally Posted by xrayaustin View Post
He wasn't running a rdx he was running a corally assassin and also he had a motor mount custom made for it at a machine shop prior to the race.
Ah... perhaps that one that sat in the Superior Hobbies show room forever? Bullfrog had said it was an RDX so I ran with that info.

But getting a BL motor to work with an RDX should be fairly simple. I ran one in VTA a few years back and it was all good.
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Old 08-07-2014, 12:09 AM   #10547
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Here's a picture of the chassis and bulkhead. You can see the cutout for the motor, and the lip of carbon at the bottom of the motor mount. That's the thing that's interfering - I wonder if the non-original chassis and original bulkhead are not quite compatible with a brushless motor?

I test fit a Putnam Propulsion motor that has flat parts on the can and that fit, but any completely round motor won't clear the lip and sit flat against the motor mount.

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Old 08-07-2014, 12:12 AM   #10548
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And here is the underside of the chassis...as you can see it's not the original RDX but it's not quite a Phi either. I can't find a similar picture online.



Top of the chassis...

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Old 08-07-2014, 12:21 AM   #10549
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When in doubt... the dremel's out

Might take a bit of creative carving on your part.
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Old 08-07-2014, 09:13 AM   #10550
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When in doubt... the dremel's out

Might take a bit of creative carving on your part.
Yeah, I was afraid of that. The solution seems easy enough - I just need to mill down that lipped portion to be even with the rest of the chassis in that area, and that should give me the room I need.

If the motor mount was like the Phi bulkhead - a flat mounting surface instead of being recessed like the RDX mount, it would work fine because I would have the vertical room to maneuver the motor. Unfortunately, with a hooded motor mount area and shallower milled portion of the chassis, it looks like I've inherited the worst of both worlds.

Unless I'm missing something, it looks like a Dremel and sanding drum will be the best solution. I suppose if it gets jacked up too bad I can just find an original RDX chassis and swap it out.
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Old 08-07-2014, 03:32 PM   #10551
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And here is the underside of the chassis...as you can see it's not the original RDX but it's not quite a Phi either. I can't find a similar picture online.
Isn't that the 2mm Phi chassis?
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Old 08-07-2014, 04:52 PM   #10552
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Isn't that the 2mm Phi chassis?
I initially thought it was a Phi chassis as well, but a comparison between the two show that my chassis is missing some of the screw holes in the front and rear ends, and the holes on both sides of the motor mount are round on my chassis compared to elongated slots on the Phi chassis.

Maybe these aren't huge differences, but they seem different enough that it's not a 100% match.
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Old 08-07-2014, 06:57 PM   #10553
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There were so many different parts that came out for that car.

Mill it down a bit, you shouldn't have much trouble getting it to work. I've had to get to work on a number of cars for VTA... the TC3 was one requiring a good bit of milling and grinding.

I want to say (maybe someone can confirm) that some guys ended up using Tamiya arms and steering bits on these cars. So IIRC, that would make life easier in terms of finding spares. Really though, I see all the RDX stuff on Ebay. Good luck, you will like the car when you get it up and running as a VTA ride.
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Old 08-07-2014, 07:03 PM   #10554
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You know what makes a perfect mill. A brushless motor with a harden steel pinion. You can even set the depth by adjusting the pinion height.

It works if you're in a pinch.

I did it with my Yokomo C3 aluminum bulkheads.
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Old 08-07-2014, 09:09 PM   #10555
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Fixed! Took a Dremel with a conical grinding head and just slowly lowered the height of the lip until the motor would clear and bolt in. Then I sealed the exposed carbon with some CA and everything seems to be good to go. The Dremel really made quick work of the carbon!

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Old 10-09-2014, 09:37 AM   #10556
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My RDX is up and running! I'll post pictures of it with the Protoform Firebird body when I get home this evening. One question - are the belts on these cars pretty loose? Compared to the belts on my TC 6.2, these things are flopping around like mad. It's been so long since I ran it originally (like 7 years or so) I can't remember what the belt tension should be.

Also, what FDR did those of you that ran these in VTA shoot for? I imagine it might be different using a 21.5 motor than 25.5, but everywhere in Southern California uses "Outlaw" rules to bump up the speed a little.
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Old 07-26-2015, 04:53 AM   #10557
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Hi guys;

anyone have a specialized left bulkhead they want to get rid of ?

Contact me via PM ! thanks
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Old 11-18-2015, 05:47 PM   #10558
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Have Both the PHI and RDX bought they from a fellow rctech member with a boat load of parts and they are killer on road cars fast as hell u car drift run carpet or drop it on black top and mine hit 80+ mph awesome car. newer isnt always better I would race mine indoor and if I could drive better I would def be on the podium
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:26 AM   #10559
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I hope Corally releases a new car soon....
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Old 11-20-2015, 08:07 AM   #10560
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So did I until a couple of years ago, but it looks like they're gone. I think they were bought by a chinese company, perhaps with the intention of getting a name that would open new markets for them. Nothing happened in those markets at least. Maybe they're busy releasing stuff on the chinese market.
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