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Old 11-04-2007, 06:23 AM   #10381
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Here is the technique I used to remove the diff screw nut -

Use a soldering iron with a small narrow tip to melt away the tabs which
prevents the nut from rotating.

Then use the same soldering iron to melt and remove the plastic around the
screw until there is about 1/8" of threads exposed.

Using an old body post, drill a very small "starter" hole in the end then thread
it on to the exposed end of the screw. (instead of a body post, any round
pc of plastic with a very small hole will work)

Once the treads catch on the screw, the screw and what was left of the
nut came out easly.

I was surprised how easly the rest of the screw came out once the tabs
were out of the way and I had a "grip" on the end of the screw.

Hope this works as well for you as it did on 2 of my broken diffs.
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Old 11-04-2007, 06:56 PM   #10382
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Thanks Texas, May be my last resort. May be what fixes her.

I still have'nt been able to figure this thing out, I have pulled out all my tricks, I took apart and put back together the diffs.(blueprinted) I was'nt able to find anything wrong with them (although I have never seen a new cone washer) I tried all different tightness combos, and they deffinitley feel silky good. To reitterate it only spins out on power and left turns.

Anyhow still open to suggestions
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:41 PM   #10383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtherbe View Post
Thanks Texas, May be my last resort. May be what fixes her.

I still have'nt been able to figure this thing out, I have pulled out all my tricks, I took apart and put back together the diffs.(blueprinted) I was'nt able to find anything wrong with them (although I have never seen a new cone washer) I tried all different tightness combos, and they deffinitley feel silky good. To reitterate it only spins out on power and left turns.

Anyhow still open to suggestions
What tires/foams are you running?
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Old 11-04-2007, 08:26 PM   #10384
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What else do you have to change to run the lowered
shock tower?

Droop,shook length stuff like that.

thanks...
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Old 11-04-2007, 10:59 PM   #10385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giantbill View Post
What else do you have to change to run the lowered
shock tower?

Droop,shook length stuff like that.

thanks...
You have to cut the shock shaft and ball end 3mm. Then measure them out to 62.5mm
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Old 11-05-2007, 05:01 PM   #10386
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I figured it had to be that,but wanted to make sure.

Also nice to have some numbers to go by,not just
hacking away.

Thanks .....Again
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Old 11-05-2007, 06:21 PM   #10387
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Still Bill, I am running rubber slicks on asphalt, soft sticky Hpi's. The car is a dream when going clockwise, but severe spin out on counter clockwise turns while on power. It will just pivot on the left front wheel and do a complete 180,an off camber turn really accentuates the problem, but not on right turns, and not off power.

I am sure I could try different tires but it bothers me the difference between clockwise and counter clockwise handling I believe tires would just mask the problem. I will get to the bottom of this, I have just been doing one thing at a time, diff cone washers will be next, maybe complete rebuild. How is it ordering directly from Corally, as Ampdraw is out of rebuild kits?
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Old 11-18-2007, 09:11 AM   #10388
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I think I got it TWEAK doh.. Since the shocks were built by the first owner the shafts lenghts were mismatched. I havent run her yet-Rain-but the right rear was lifting off 1/4" before the left. Makes sense
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Old 11-22-2007, 04:27 PM   #10389
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Rain stopped, and yes she is all better. I had the droop way off.
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Old 12-07-2007, 06:23 AM   #10390
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O.k. I am an official thread stopper This car is sweet, though...
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Old 12-07-2007, 09:30 AM   #10391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtherbe View Post
Still Bill, I am running rubber slicks on asphalt, soft sticky Hpi's. The car is a dream when going clockwise, but severe spin out on counter clockwise turns while on power. It will just pivot on the left front wheel and do a complete 180,an off camber turn really accentuates the problem, but not on right turns, and not off power.

I am sure I could try different tires but it bothers me the difference between clockwise and counter clockwise handling I believe tires would just mask the problem. I will get to the bottom of this, I have just been doing one thing at a time, diff cone washers will be next, maybe complete rebuild. How is it ordering directly from Corally, as Ampdraw is out of rebuild kits?
Sorry, I got a Phi now and stopped watching this thread.

I would check for a bad bearing at one of the wheels...probably front left. That has caused me such handling.

Buying directly from Corally is great! Also use Superior and Ampdraw when I need to.

Guess I will keep up with this thread again.

Bill
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:59 PM   #10392
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If anyone still checks this thread, I have an question on RDX shocks.

Anyone have any tips on which bladder is best?

Stock Corally or should I use Yokomo or ???

I rebuild per the blueprinting instructions and have switched to the Tamiya pistons.

What is the hot set up for bladders?

Thanks in advance for any recommendations.
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:14 PM   #10393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtherbe View Post
I think I got it TWEAK doh.. Since the shocks were built by the first owner the shafts lenghts were mismatched. I havent run her yet-Rain-but the right rear was lifting off 1/4" before the left. Makes sense
I would definitely check your shocks and then verify your droop.
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:15 PM   #10394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasMack View Post
If anyone still checks this thread, I have an question on RDX shocks.

Anyone have any tips on which bladder is best?

Stock Corally or should I use Yokomo or ???

I rebuild per the blueprinting instructions and have switched to the Tamiya pistons.

What is the hot set up for bladders?

Thanks in advance for any recommendations.
The HPI bladders work and seem to offer better rebound.
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:25 PM   #10395
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Tamiya TRF bladders are also a good choice.
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