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Old 01-28-2007, 07:00 AM   #10141
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Default Chassis for 4200 batteries

I've been running my asphalt RDX that I bought 3 years ago with 3300 batteries. I haven't switch until recently to the 4200 and they don't fit. Is there a specific or updated chassis? What's the part number so I order the right one and will you need a top plate to go with it?
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:34 AM   #10142
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Any of the chassis' that you buy now are for the updated post 3700 cells. The topdeck will work but will be tight to get at the screw for the rear of the batt. strap.
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:36 PM   #10143
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Which part numbers need to be used for the new shock mounting, upper and lower?

Also on the setup sheets I see "Shims Under Couplers" is this the shims that go behind the hinge pin mounts?

Thanks,
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Old 01-28-2007, 05:57 PM   #10144
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K this maybe an dumb question, which is harder the 35 or 80 arms
and do the 80s rears also have 2 holes for the hub postion?
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Old 01-28-2007, 06:31 PM   #10145
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35's are softer. The 80's have both mounting positions.
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Old 01-28-2007, 06:40 PM   #10146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASH
Which part numbers need to be used for the new shock mounting, upper and lower?

Also on the setup sheets I see "Shims Under Couplers" is this the shims that go behind the hinge pin mounts?

Thanks,
You need the COR79269 "Balljoint 5.8mm Inside Thread" to change the upper mounts only. Continue using screws on the bottoms.

Shims under couplers are the ones that space the couplers away from the bulkheads to create toe-in, toe-out (at the hingepins) or to give the car a wider track (by spacing out equally front-to-rear at the couplers).
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Old 01-28-2007, 06:49 PM   #10147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill
You need the COR79269 "Balljoint 5.8mm Inside Thread" to change the upper mounts only. Continue using screws on the bottoms.

Shims under couplers are the ones that space the couplers away from the bulkheads to create toe-in, toe-out (at the hingepins) or to give the car a wider track (by spacing out equally front-to-rear at the couplers).
Thanks, just the info I needed.

Later,
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:16 PM   #10148
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So, if you were forced to use the new 2.4mm chassis with the stiffening plate on carpet (with foams) where would you start your roll center blocks when trying to find a setup? Standard blocks down, or maybe up? Presumably, the option low centers would be too low on the thinner chassis.
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:41 PM   #10149
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The thinner chassis made it a lot easier to get weight low on the chassis (under the belt next to the battery), and seems to fit the carbon LiPo better in general. I understand that it's not optimal for carpet with foams, but since I'm not out winning any big races, having it work "just okay" is fine with me. I'm just a little lost on where to start with roll centers. I'm thinking about using the standard blocks all the way around, and running the rears up and the fronts down, with the rear camber links all the way out and up. When I tried this before with the rears blocks down, it was SO planted in the rear the car would barely turn. I'd like to free it up a bit and maybe help it stick with softer springs if it's too loose.
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Old 01-28-2007, 08:33 PM   #10150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill
You need the COR79269 "Balljoint 5.8mm Inside Thread" to change the upper mounts only. Continue using screws on the bottoms.

Shims under couplers are the ones that space the couplers away from the bulkheads to create toe-in, toe-out (at the hingepins) or to give the car a wider track (by spacing out equally front-to-rear at the couplers).
For Crash: I think the COR79269 might not be what you are thinking about. You might be thinking the COR79267 Balljoints



I use these for the tops of the shocks, you pop the ball out of the eyelet and this one just pops right in. I use a screw for the bottoms but you could use these as well for the bottom mount
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:28 PM   #10151
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Default diffs loosening

Could anyone give me some ideas as to why my diffs are loosening up? After each run, both the front and rears are very loose. If I crank them down, it lasts for a few laps and then it all loosens up a again.
Also, I was told there is a special grease that people are now running in the diffs.
I did a search on this, but couldn't find enough info.

Thanks in advance for any help.

-Steve
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Old 01-28-2007, 09:33 PM   #10152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsmooth
Could anyone give me some ideas as to why my diffs are loosening up? After each run, both the front and rears are very loose. If I crank them down, it lasts for a few laps and then it all loosens up a again.
Also, I was told there is a special grease that people are now running in the diffs.
I did a search on this, but couldn't find enough info.

Thanks in advance for any help.

-Steve
Steve, have you seen the "blueprint diff instructions yet?
http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/diffs.htm

I've noticed when this happens that sometimes the little cone washers on the diff screw have flattened out (possibly from overtightening) and may need to be replaced. Be careful when you're first building the diff not to tighten it too much, it's easy to squish those washers.
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:01 AM   #10153
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Hello everyone,

I've recently ordered the 2006 comp spec chassis and stiffener, however, I'm not sure how the stiffener fastens to the upper deck. Anyone have pics of this?

Cheerz
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:30 AM   #10154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obsidian
Hello everyone,

I've recently ordered the 2006 comp spec chassis and stiffener, however, I'm not sure how the stiffener fastens to the upper deck. Anyone have pics of this?

Cheerz
It should fit to the lower deck (on the chassis itself). You can line it up with the holes in the front of the chassis, and it becomes pretty apparent where it goes. I couldn't find a picture though, sorry.
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Old 01-29-2007, 04:42 PM   #10155
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Would these work as well: COR79264 (BALL JOINTS 4.3MM, M3X5.5)
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