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Team Corally RDX Touring Car

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Old 01-22-2007, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
So with a heavy nose you run less rear droop, the rear doesn't transfer because the weight is on the nose and rotates.

And with a heavy rear you run more droop, the rear transfers more weight to make it rotate.

Interesting..... which is better? carpet? asphalt?

Jeff
asphalt of course..Duh....
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Old 01-23-2007, 01:39 PM
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nope carpet.....
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Old 01-23-2007, 09:32 PM
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I am in the process of putting an LRP Sphere 2007 ESC and Novak 13.5 motor (with sintered) into my RDX this week. The BL motor weighs about 30 grams more than my CO27s; so, I figure to do two things to get the car's side-to-side weight as balanced as possible: 1) change to offset motor mount; and, 2) go to a low-profile servo to eliminate weight.

Anyone have comments on their preferences between the KO low-profile servo (2343?) as opposed to the similar Futaba unit? I know about the price difference. Many thanks.
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Old 01-23-2007, 09:38 PM
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you should probably add a lil bit of wieght on the oppostte side of the car..
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Old 01-23-2007, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Still Bill
I am in the process of putting an LRP Sphere 2007 ESC and Novak 13.5 motor (with sintered) into my RDX this week. The BL motor weighs about 30 grams more than my CO27s; so, I figure to do two things to get the car's side-to-side weight as balanced as possible: 1) change to offset motor mount; and, 2) go to a low-profile servo to eliminate weight.

Anyone have comments on their preferences between the KO low-profile servo (2343?) as opposed to the similar Futaba unit? I know about the price difference. Many thanks.
The KO has more torque and .01 faster....but you'll never notice it on the track. Both are digital and have never seen any problems out of either. Only real difference is price unless you want to get into adjusting all the settings on the ko....which I dont think anyone does!!

EA
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Old 01-23-2007, 11:22 PM
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Hi Jeff,

That's what I am trying to avoid doing...or minimizing.


EA,

To the rescue with exactly what I needed...as usual. Wait...Aren't you driving an Xray?

Many thanks both of you.
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Old 01-23-2007, 11:30 PM
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He's just snoooooooping like I tend to do on here.
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Old 01-23-2007, 11:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Korey Harbke
He's just snoooooooping like I tend to do on here.
Understood...I'm guilty all the time too...
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Old 01-23-2007, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Still Bill
I am in the process of putting an LRP Sphere 2007 ESC and Novak 13.5 motor (with sintered) into my RDX this week. The BL motor weighs about 30 grams more than my CO27s; so, I figure to do two things to get the car's side-to-side weight as balanced as possible: 1) change to offset motor mount; and, 2) go to a low-profile servo to eliminate weight.

Anyone have comments on their preferences between the KO low-profile servo (2343?) as opposed to the similar Futaba unit? I know about the price difference. Many thanks.
The offset bulkhead does seem to help a good bit in getting some of that weight closer to the center of the car. You can also replace the endbell on your 13.5 with the "ribbed" endbell that's used on the Velociti (non-HV) motors. The inside of it is drilled out, and lightened. I heard someone say it's 1/2oz lighter, but I haven't tried to verify that for myself. It's definitely lighter though.

I'm using the Orion Carbon LiPo, and struggling mightily with the car's balance. I've run out of room the put weights on the right side. I've got 8 gram Corally weights stacked double tall in all the slots behind the battery and single 8's under the layshaft. I've got a few 8's in front of the battery. I've got flat weights in the top groove in the battery under the strap. I've got weights on top of the battery strap. It's ugly as hell, and I'm still about 3 pounds light on the right side.
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Old 01-24-2007, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
The offset bulkhead does seem to help a good bit in getting some of that weight closer to the center of the car. You can also replace the endbell on your 13.5 with the "ribbed" endbell that's used on the Velociti (non-HV) motors. The inside of it is drilled out, and lightened. I heard someone say it's 1/2oz lighter, but I haven't tried to verify that for myself. It's definitely lighter though.

I'm using the Orion Carbon LiPo, and struggling mightily with the car's balance. I've run out of room the put weights on the right side. I've got 8 gram Corally weights stacked double tall in all the slots behind the battery and single 8's under the layshaft. I've got a few 8's in front of the battery. I've got flat weights in the top groove in the battery under the strap. I've got weights on top of the battery strap. It's ugly as hell, and I'm still about 3 pounds light on the right side.
Oh Bother..
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by CAlbrecht
Oh Bother..
I realize LiPo is a dirty word amongst the racing crowd. It's really nice for club racing though. They're about as fast as a good 4200 pack, easy to deal with, and last forever. I think it's worth the hassle of balance, and I can always buy some fresh 4200s or whatever for big races, and not burn them up in the club.

If I had some way to retain square packs on the RDX chassis, I could use a heavier pack from MaxAmps which would help with the weight issue quite a bit. XRay has those things on the chassis that keep packs in place, which seem to work, but I can't think of something similar for the RDX. Right now I've got a couple of thick rubber o-rings glued to the chassis to keep the battery from sliding into the motor. Maybe I should tape. :-(
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:44 AM
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Default method to keep 4800lipo on chassis

I simply made a battery holder out of kydex. It goes between the battery strap and the chassis 75% up the battery. Holds the battery in rock solid.

I took a piece of kydex (bumper material) about 1/8" thick and cut it out with a band saw and dremel.

I can trace the brackets and post them also.

To balance out the car, I would do the following:
stick lead weight tape (the thick kind) under the battery in the battery slots. This will give you 6 rows to put weight into and should help to balance the car. This will also lower the center of gravity which putting the weights on top of the strap messes up.
Attached Thumbnails Team Corally RDX Touring Car-bracket1.jpg   Team Corally RDX Touring Car-bracket2.jpg   Team Corally RDX Touring Car-bracket3.jpg  
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
XRay has those things on the chassis that keep packs in place, which seem to work, but I can't think of something similar for the RDX. :-(
You can use the Xray ones too...It would just require you to put a small hole in the chassis. Ive seen a lot of Hotbodies Cyclone drivers do this to keep their batteries in place.

EA
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
You can use the Xray ones too...It would just require you to put a small hole in the chassis. Ive seen a lot of Hotbodies Cyclone drivers do this to keep their batteries in place.

EA
Yeah Billy started that trick in Memphis. When he bummed the parts from you
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by billjacobs
I simply made a battery holder out of kydex. It goes between the battery strap and the chassis 75% up the battery. Holds the battery in rock solid.

I took a piece of kydex (bumper material) about 1/8" thick and cut it out with a band saw and dremel.

I can trace the brackets and post them also.

To balance out the car, I would do the following:
stick lead weight tape (the thick kind) under the battery in the battery slots. This will give you 6 rows to put weight into and should help to balance the car. This will also lower the center of gravity which putting the weights on top of the strap messes up.
Wow, that's a great idea. I wish someone manufactured them for the Dremel impaired among us.

As for the weights on the underside, do you have a problem with them hanging below the chassis or falling off?

The LiPo being so light actually gives you the opportunity to keep your weight much lower on the chassis than a traditional battery if you do it right.
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