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Old 12-14-2006, 11:28 AM   #9796
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
So double pinks on the front is the new hotness? Is that an RDX thing, or are other cars having luck with the same change? I think I saw Rick Hohwart say it worked on the TC5 prototype as well.
I think the Xray drivers were doing it to get more steering and then it spread from there.
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Old 12-14-2006, 01:55 PM   #9797
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
So double pinks on the front is the new hotness? Is that an RDX thing, or are other cars having luck with the same change? I think I saw Rick Hohwart say it worked on the TC5 prototype as well.
It was started in Vegas due to the medium traction we are now seeing at big events with the new style carpet. The bite in Cleveland was better definately, but you have to super glue the tires otherwise it is way too twitchy. Lately, most guys are running the front camberlink down and rear camberlink up.

Superglue is the key.

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Old 12-14-2006, 06:19 PM   #9798
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at the Express race.. Dayger was running 19turn sedan... no stock for him anymore... steppin it up!!!
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Old 12-14-2006, 08:03 PM   #9799
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Dayger didnt run stock in Cleveland or Vegas either.
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Old 12-17-2006, 09:39 PM   #9800
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Thanks for the several posts explaining Dayger's latest foam setup. I was wondering.
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Old 12-17-2006, 11:49 PM   #9801
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Are the team guys using stock shock bladders? I've got a set that I've been using for about 3 months that haven't come into contact with anything except Associated shock oil. They swelled to the point where it was hard to tighten the caps enough to stay on without the bladder slipping into the shock body. I made sure to keep the cap and bladders as clean as possible to avoid slippage. I put a new set in tonight, and the shocks are back to being wonderful. Is this just something I should expect to replace every few months, or am I doing something wrong?
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Old 12-17-2006, 11:53 PM   #9802
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I've only used the stock bladders. If you change your shock oil fairly frequently (< every few weeks - 1 month), you should get new bladders every couple months. A well-built shock shouldn't need to be rebuilt for quite a while.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:00 AM   #9803
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I've only used the stock bladders. If you change your shock oil fairly frequently (< every few weeks - 1 month), you should get new bladders every couple months. A well-built shock shouldn't need to be rebuilt for quite a while.
Cool Brian, thanks. Someone at the track mentioned that he'd heard of some guys using Losi bladders in the shocks. I normally don't have to touch my shocks more than once every few months, but for some unknown reason, the preload collars started getting stiff, and kept unscrewing the shock body from the cap. I pulled the rubber rings out of the preload collars, and it fixed the problem. They don't move during a race, either, so it seems like that's a reasonable fix. I've got them all built up with new bladders now, so hopefully I can forget about them for a while.

On other note, I started using the "rounded" shock pistons, and the shocks don't feel nearly as smooth as they do with the older ones. I was under the impression they should be smoother, but I've gone back and forth, and the older ones undoubtedly feel smoother when they're built than the rounded ones. Maybe I'm inept at building shocks or something.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:04 AM   #9804
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The car looks so pretty when it's all clean and rebuilt, with its new chassis and topdeck. Too bad it's gonna get ugly again after I put electronics in it. I'm sure I'll probably regret it, but I'm going to try the "competition spec" chassis and stiffener on the rug. I sure wish they'd make a thicker version of it, the chassis looks really great. We'll see how flexy it is with the stiffening plate... and how quickly I go running back to a thick chassis. If it sucks, I'll run it on the asphalt in a few months when it warms up.
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Old 12-18-2006, 12:28 AM   #9805
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I've never tried the rounded pistons. I use the Tamiya 3 hole pistons - they work great.

Make sure there aren't any small burrs that are barely noticeable on your rounded pistons.
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:39 AM   #9806
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anyone got tips on making the drivetrain on the RDX smoother and more efficient? i know about cleaning out the bearings....

How about the best place for ceramic bearings.. and type of bearings..

car is in need of a drive train rebuild... im planning on purchasing bearings for the entire car..

any tips on the belts??

thanks
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:59 AM   #9807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCFREAK
anyone got tips on making the drivetrain on the RDX smoother and more efficient? i know about cleaning out the bearings....

How about the best place for ceramic bearings.. and type of bearings..

car is in need of a drive train rebuild... im planning on purchasing bearings for the entire car..

any tips on the belts??

thanks
Acer Racing has complete sets of ceramic bearings for the RDX for $89.95.
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Old 12-18-2006, 08:59 AM   #9808
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awesome... maintainance free??
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:37 AM   #9809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCFREAK
anyone got tips on making the drivetrain on the RDX smoother and more efficient? i know about cleaning out the bearings....

How about the best place for ceramic bearings.. and type of bearings..

car is in need of a drive train rebuild... im planning on purchasing bearings for the entire car..

any tips on the belts??

thanks
You can adjust the height of the layshaft which will affect the belt tension. A lot of guys run it toward the middle which gives reduced tension, and may free up the drive train just a bit.

I personally think the Acer ceramic bearings I bought for my car was the single biggest waste of money I've ever spent in R/C. They were fragile, and got gritty just as fast as any other bearing. The ones in the hubs are especially prone to breaking or wearing out. The best deal I've ever seen on bearings is the WalaWala store on eBay. You can get ABEC 5 ceramics for cheap. Personally, I buy the cheap ABEC 3 bearings in bulk, and just toss them without a thought when they're gritty after a quick cleaning.

If you race on carpet, you can burn the carpet fibers out of your bearings with a lighter, rather than trying to spray or pick them out.

http://stores.ebay.com/WalawalaStore
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Old 12-18-2006, 10:43 AM   #9810
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50 hub bearings: $23.50
20 diff outdrive bearings: $10.20

You can spend a few bucks more and get the ABEC 5 bearings if that's your thing. Shipping will set you back about $8, but you can combine shipping if you buy more than one bearing type. If you use these, be sure to degrease them since they'll likely be packed with something thick and nasty, and then oil them with something light and fast.
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