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Old 12-03-2006, 11:31 AM   #9736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian L
rcgen-You can try grinding a small notch on the pin where the setscrew sits. Make it just big enough for the setscrew to have a flat surface.This should keep it tight.
Thanks I'll try that....
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Old 12-03-2006, 02:12 PM   #9737
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Yea ! Another RDX to rule @ Mikes!
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Old 12-03-2006, 02:34 PM   #9738
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I'm no pro, but I'm not sold on the benefit of the 4MM chassis. Maybe it's more important at big races with a ton of traction, but on our carpet track, even when the traction comes up, the car feels twitchy and unpredictable to me. I've gone back to the 2.9 with the thick topdeck and have been very pleased.

I guess what I'm trying to say, is that I'm not sure what tiny percentage of the RDX population actually benefits from the thick chassis, and it's not cheap.

I don't know how crucial the offset bulkhead is, but it seems to make the car transition a little faster. For what it's worth, it seems like a lot of guys overseas have started using it, and the new Corally prototype has narrower bulkheads that seem to achieve the same effect. It's another case where you can probably save yourself the $100+ for the bulkhead, and use that money for tires, or even save for the RDX-PHI where some of the hopups will be standard.

The carpet spec car is really nice on its own. Add some low rollcenters, the lowered shock tower, the aluminum knuckles and the SRC bumper/kydex, and you're set.
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Old 12-03-2006, 03:53 PM   #9739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo Morris
Just remember if you get the lowered tower, you have to cut 3mil off your shock shafts and shock bottoms.

you don't have to do that, just use tc3 or tc4 shock cups
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Old 12-03-2006, 05:08 PM   #9740
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double post, sorry.

-Zac
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Old 12-03-2006, 05:08 PM   #9741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xtreameracer
you don't have to do that, just use tc3 or tc4 shock cups
this has been argued about for 3 or so pages back about 30 pages ago. some experiences require shortened shock shafts, while others dont. go by what your shocks are doing. if the pistons are hitting the bladder or you cant meet ride hieght, shorten your shafts.

-Zac
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Old 12-03-2006, 05:16 PM   #9742
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Default Dallas track

I think his suggestion was more for his track since they are all racing at the same carpet track.
The 4mm chassis would have a bit of benefit at the Dallas carpet track, I would think especially in the late part of the carpet season since the track will be quite warmer and the grip will be bit higher at that time of year.

As Mr.Goo also mentioned the RDX can be just as fast without all the hopups.
I do think most of us can agree for carpet the best and useful hopups for carpet racing are low rollcenter block (probably for front only) and the specialized bumper (a must have the best 15 bucks you can spend). The lower shock tower is a nice to have hopup but not (made a typo, forget type in "not") necessary at first...run the car in stock form just make sure to get the bumper.


Keep on racing everyone.

Last edited by olhipster1; 12-04-2006 at 03:55 PM.
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Old 12-03-2006, 06:17 PM   #9743
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The low tower is mainly used to slam the body. Depending on tire size, you can leave the shock stock. I cut mine and thought the car felt better, but think it is just in my head. The offset motor mount made the car transition a little quicker. Just building a new kit with a 2.9 chassis to try. I have only run a 3.9 and a custom 3mm. I always liked my car to be as stiff as can be. It makes you have your suspension set-up closer, but think it pays off in the end. Checking out most of the guys running RDX's, and they all seem to be going to a stock 2.9 chassis.
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:14 PM   #9744
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Default The 2.4/2.9/3.9mm chassis question

I think the 3.9mm chassis has its place...for carpet. That being when your car has to meet the minimum weight rule...like for Carpet Regionals/Nationals, IIC, etc. Otherwise, when not required at local carpet races, I run a standard 2.9mm chassis and enjoy the weight savings.

And for local asphalt, the 2.4mm chassis weighs even less and flexes very nicely.
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Last edited by Still Bill; 12-05-2006 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 12-03-2006, 10:44 PM   #9745
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Default New topic...RDX Joint Balls

Last month, I received all the new hardware from Corally USA to use the swaybars with the new f/r arms. Also included was an additional set of "RDX Joint Balls 5.8mm Part #79269" to use for attaching the tops of my shocks to the shock towers. Cost was $7 for the four joint balls.

After popping the standard balls out of the tops of my f/r shocks and replacing them with these Joint Balls (with the proper spacers) at the shock towers (with a cap head screw), I am getting much freer action at the tops and have the added convenience of being able to pop the tops off the balls for working on the car without removing screws. This is a really cool hop-up at a minimal cost. I highly recommend it for your RDX.

Wisely, Corally USA does not recommend doing the same mod for the bottom ends of your shocks...Too susceptible for coming off down there.

Sometimes, it's the little things...So thanks Corally USA for showing this to me.

Bill
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Last edited by Still Bill; 12-03-2006 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 12-04-2006, 03:43 PM   #9746
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bill
can you post a pic of your talking about thanks
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Old 12-04-2006, 04:55 PM   #9747
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill
Last month, I received all the new hardware from Corally USA to use the swaybars with the new f/r arms. Also included was an additional set of "RDX Joint Balls 5.8mm Part #79269" to use for attaching the tops of my shocks to the shock towers. Cost was $7 for the four joint balls.

After popping the standard balls out of the tops of my f/r shocks and replacing them with these Joint Balls (with the proper spacers) at the shock towers (with a cap head screw), I am getting much freer action at the tops and have the added convenience of being able to pop the tops off the balls for working on the car without removing screws. This is a really cool hop-up at a minimal cost. I highly recommend it for your RDX.

Wisely, Corally USA does not recommend doing the same mod for the bottom ends of your shocks...Too susceptible for coming off down there.

Sometimes, it's the little things...So thanks Corally USA for showing this to me.

Bill
Huge upgrade and definitely worth the little cost. Shocks free up at the top but arent loose. Totally agree with Bill.

They look better too
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Old 12-04-2006, 09:58 PM   #9748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Carey
Huge upgrade and definitely worth the little cost. Shocks free up at the top but arent loose. Totally agree with Bill.

They look better too
With center steering and joint ball mods, I am over 1/2 second faster per lap on carpet than a month ago. The car is hugely better.

Believe that these are good mods for both foam and rubber setups.

Will hopefully help me to better keep up with Johnny and his dad at the IIC next year.

Still believing that my current RDXs have more to give...much more.
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Old 12-04-2006, 10:13 PM   #9749
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New 5.8 mm balls

Here you go guys.
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Old 12-05-2006, 08:39 AM   #9750
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so where do these new parts go? can anyone post pics of them on the car?
thanks!
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