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Old 11-01-2006, 02:51 AM   #9526
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Hey I cant seem to find the part no to buy the circlip on its own?
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:10 AM   #9527
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They don't sell the circlip by itself.

Just go to www.mcmaster.com and get part # 98455A108

You get 100 of the 8mm internal snap rings for $12.67. Share them with your buddies.

Of course, we could also ask our friends down at Specialized R/C to package up these things in batches of 5 to sell to us........HINT.....
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Old 11-01-2006, 06:31 AM   #9528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital
Thats what I thought. Had never heard of a different one. Kevin, are you sure yours arent from a different car?
I have instructions that a team driver had on how to install the new screw. I will look on the paper for a part number tonight.
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Old 11-01-2006, 07:49 AM   #9529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McSmooth
They don't sell the circlip by itself.

Just go to www.mcmaster.com and get part # 98455A108

You get 100 of the 8mm internal snap rings for $12.67. Share them with your buddies.

Of course, we could also ask our friends down at Specialized R/C to package up these things in batches of 5 to sell to us........HINT.....

Good idea!! HELLOOOO JEFF!! lol
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Old 11-01-2006, 07:52 AM   #9530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McSmooth
They don't sell the circlip by itself.

Just go to www.mcmaster.com and get part # 98455A108

You get 100 of the 8mm internal snap rings for $12.67. Share them with your buddies.

Of course, we could also ask our friends down at Specialized R/C to package up these things in batches of 5 to sell to us........HINT.....
Hmmm are there any Corally parts that cost less then $12? We are probably better off buying them in bulk ourselves!
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Old 11-01-2006, 10:15 AM   #9531
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Bearings:
5x9x3 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=32
10x15x4 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=24

I go through the hub bearings like crazy, even when I don't hit things. The carpet fibers are really hard on them. I've heard you can hit them with lighter fluid and set them on fire to melt the fibers out. I usually just buy 20-30 at a time and replace them when they go bad.
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Old 11-01-2006, 10:19 AM   #9532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McSmooth
They don't sell the circlip by itself.

Just go to www.mcmaster.com and get part # 98455A108

You get 100 of the 8mm internal snap rings for $12.67. Share them with your buddies.

Of course, we could also ask our friends down at Specialized R/C to package up these things in batches of 5 to sell to us........HINT.....
A brilliant idea!!!! HEY JEFF
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Old 11-01-2006, 10:59 AM   #9533
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You know, if Corally isn't even sure if they're going to produce the prototype car we've seen in its current form, I bet the earliest we'll see it is next carpet season. They seem to take their time ramping up for production.

Not that I mind, because I love my RDX, but I wouldn't want it to scare away potential customers thinking they should wait for the new car. Plus, this car is proven, the new one isn't.
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Old 11-01-2006, 11:01 AM   #9534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
You know, if Corally isn't even sure if they're going to produce the prototype car we've seen in its current form, I bet the earliest we'll see it is next carpet season. They seem to take their time ramping up for production.

Not that I mind, because I love my RDX, but I wouldn't want it to scare away potential customers thinking they should wait for the new car. Plus, this car is proven, the new one isn't.

Yup-like TC3 to TC4 or FK04 to FK05........
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:07 PM   #9535
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For those of you that have been trying to securely fit the Orion Carbon 3200 lipo packs in your RDX... had a bit of free time this morning and found a simple and secure solution.

While trolling through our junk bin looking for anything that may help secure the pack in the car, I found a handful of leftover Airtronics servo horns - the stock horn that comes on the servos. If you remove the large brass ring and Dremel the sides of the bump with the splines down a bit it fits perfectly inside the slots of the RDX battery bar. It will stick through the top of the battery bar a bit, a few more seconds with the Dremel and you have a flush fit. The servo horn is perfect for this use since the top of the horn already has a countersunk hole with a brass insert - simply insert a screw through the hole (which fits flush against the pack.. presto!) and secure it on the top with a locknut and washer of some sort. Last step is to find the correct placement of the pack in your car and to trim both ends of the servo horn until it fits in the recess on the top of the battery pack. Simple to get the pack in and out with this method, the pack doesn't move AT ALL if you trim the ends of the horn correctly. If you still run nimh packs on raceday it's a matter of a few seconds to remove this setup to fit the nimh packs, or just pick up a spare battery bar to use for nimh packs. Of course other materials can be used with the same basic idea, but the servo horn method is cheap, simple to cut/fit, and already has the countersunk hole with the brass insert.

Pics are attached.. should be self-explanatory, just added the text description above to try to make it foolproof. Hopefully someone finds this helpful.
Attached Thumbnails
Team Corally RDX Touring Car-rdx-top.jpg   Team Corally RDX Touring Car-rdxstrap-top.jpg   Team Corally RDX Touring Car-rdxstrap-bottom.jpg  
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:30 PM   #9536
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That's a nice solution, thank you for sharing it!

What I did was glue two thin rubber o rings to the battery strap that push down on the raised edges of the carbon pack, and keep it snugly in place. Unfortunately, the strap warps when I do this, and I have to tighten it more than I'd like. It's probably tweaking the car, but I haven't noticed it on the track.

I've been tempted to get the new chassis and tape my batteries, but the only make it in 2.4mm, and I'm not sure how useful that stiffening plate would be on carpet.
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:50 PM   #9537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me

What I did was glue two thin rubber o rings to the battery strap that push down on the raised edges of the carbon pack, and keep it snugly in place. Unfortunately, the strap warps when I do this, and I have to tighten it more than I'd like. It's probably tweaking the car, but I haven't noticed it on the track.
That's the route I was taking at first.. tried everything from velcro to pieces of an old rubber tire between the bar and battery, everything still led to the strap having to be overtightened to keep it from moving laterally. This way you barely have to snug the bar down and the pack is rock solid, the servo horn is almost the perfect depth to fit in the space in the battery.
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Old 11-01-2006, 01:24 PM   #9538
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Yea, that's a very cool idea. I was kind of toying with the idea of using weighs taped to the bottom of the battery strap to achieve something similar, but haven't messed with that yet. Now all I need is some servo horns I guess. :-D
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Old 11-01-2006, 04:59 PM   #9539
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thanks for the kind words guys. i did alot of testing on my car for cleveland at this race. Made alot of changes and they were all positive. The corally team worked great together this weekend and it paid off. Im really looking forward for cleveland. Once again i would like to thank Robby for all the help, Brad, Eli, Jeff, and MO.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:16 PM   #9540
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital
Anyway I still wanna see a write up on how the pros do it. Like which lubes do they use, how much, how far do they tighten the diff screw, etc.
I've got a great diff lube for you to try As was said, ceramic or carbide make a very big difference! Good luck.
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