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Old 10-30-2006, 11:01 PM   #9511
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Originally Posted by Advil
Put the thick topdeck on for NorCal Bill.
Wait! You had the thick 3.4 topdeck on the 2.4 chassis plate????

Geeze! That does not compute Will Robinson!
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Old 10-30-2006, 11:20 PM   #9512
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Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Doing it that way, the screw part of the stud hits the top deck, a different servo saver (one not as "wide") would definitely take care of that ...I'll probably leave it as is as it seems to work ok (at lease on the bench LOL) .
I forgot to say that I am using the new narrow servo posts with my setup. These posts give just enough room to keep the servo saver arm and related hardware away from the top deck.
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:03 AM   #9513
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Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Regarding shocks...........

First off shock bladders are really affected by motor spray so do not spray them down when rebuilding or new ones. Once you fill the shock with oil, almost to the top, put the bladder in. Now make sure the piston is near the top which will help seal the shock. Once the bladder is in it will kind of drop in and start to seal. Use the backside of an xacto knife to push it into the shock body slowly.

Once this is done, put the shock cap on. This includes the aluminum and plastic piece. When putting the cap on and tightening, do no grip the plastic part. Only twist on the aluminum otherwise you run the risk of breaking the seal the bladder has created.

Hope this helps. The corally shocks are excellent. Just have a bit of patience. Usually the shockcaps is what causes the issues.

Jeff
Great info Jeff! Can we get a similar write up on proper diff building techniques?
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:10 AM   #9514
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Tim, what diff problems are you having? I have not had any problems yet and have built a few of them now.
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:38 AM   #9515
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Well I just wanna see how the pros build it. The only problems Ive had is a clicking which is usually a bent circlip or broken diff screws which not sure what causes that. I had the most silky smooth diff on Sunday and broke the screw in it.
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Old 10-31-2006, 09:56 AM   #9516
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Are you using the newer screw? As I understand the new one is a 2mm caphead screw. Not the slotted screw.
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:06 AM   #9517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill
Wait! You had the thick 3.4 topdeck on the 2.4 chassis plate????

Geeze! That does not compute Will Robinson!
Doesn't matter if it computes or not.....it WORKS!!!

Clicking noise in the diff and most diff problems are a bent circlip. Every time I have a diff doing "funny" stuff I just rebuild it and put in a new circlip. Problems have been fixed almost every time. Tell me this, if you look into the end of the diff with the screw head, when you rotate the diff does the screw head wobble back and forth? If it does, then you have a bent circlip.
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:15 AM   #9518
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy
Are you using the newer screw? As I understand the new one is a 2mm caphead screw. Not the slotted screw.
Im using the screw that is not threaded all the way up but has a slotted screw. Is there another new diff screw??
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:16 AM   #9519
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Anyway I still wanna see a write up on how the pros do it. Like which lubes do they use, how much, how far do they tighten the diff screw, etc.
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:17 AM   #9520
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Using the Corally diff grease really helped the diffs a lot, as well as not using too much of it. I've had good luck with the MuchMore thrust grease as well.

Bent circlips have been the bane of my diffs, too. I'm real gentle with them now, and that seems to help. Replace those cone washers regularly and your diffs will treat you right.
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:09 AM   #9521
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Tim throw that old diff screw away. the newer one is a cap screw and has threads all the way up.
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:17 AM   #9522
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Originally Posted by dodgeguy
Tim throw that old diff screw away. the newer one is a cap screw and has threads all the way up.
Are you sure of that? This is the first Ive heard of that.
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:33 AM   #9523
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Default Diff Screw FAQ

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=6210
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:39 AM   #9524
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Thats what I thought. Had never heard of a different one. Kevin, are you sure yours arent from a different car?
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:43 AM   #9525
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I just built a brand new kit and ordered a few diff kits and they all were screw head type with a shank. No cap head screws.

The keys to the perfect RDX diff are the circlip and carbide or ceramic diff balls. if your diff builds funny-(wont lock the diff or feels mushy, but still loose) then open it up and I bet you'll find metal shavings on the clip-toss it and put in a new one!! dont try and flatten the clip or widen it, etc.
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