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Old 10-18-2006, 05:01 AM   #9406
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Harshguy, you shouldnt need to space the servo back,just put the turnbuckle on the other side of the servo saver.
Thats what i've done and the turnbuckle is pretty straight and my KO2413 is miles from hanging off the chassis.
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:36 AM   #9407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robfo
Harshguy, you shouldnt need to space the servo back,just put the turnbuckle on the other side of the servo saver.
Thats what i've done and the turnbuckle is pretty straight and my KO2413 is miles from hanging off the chassis.
When I did that (i.e. servo on other side of standoffs, and ball on inside) the servo saver was hitting the top deck and the link was at an angle, if I don't space the servo the wayI have it, the servo doesn't hang off the edge but the link is still at an angle, I added 2 mm spacers, so the servo is 2 mm off th edge (not bad at all IMO) and link is straight ....do you have a pic of how you did yours?
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:38 AM   #9408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apex
These intructions are great. Gonna do my centerpoint this week. What length steering rods did you use?
I ended up using 1 3/4" lunsford turnbuckles as that is what my LHS had when I did this, the servo link ...I used one of the existing ones from the old steering setup ...but I don't remember which one
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Old 10-18-2006, 06:56 AM   #9409
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Ran the new top deck and center point steering last night. I didn't think the car could get any better than before.....boy was I wrong!!! Cranked off my best laps by a ton and the car was even better on power than before. Never at any point did it have a twitchy mid corner feel and it never felt on edge. Great improvement to an already great car!!!!
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Old 10-18-2006, 07:06 AM   #9410
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Glowster21 are you running foam or rubber tire/carpet or asphalt?
Which ackerman hole did you use on the steering hub?
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Old 10-18-2006, 07:39 AM   #9411
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
When I did that (i.e. servo on other side of standoffs, and ball on inside) the servo saver was hitting the top deck and the link was at an angle, if I don't space the servo the wayI have it, the servo doesn't hang off the edge but the link is still at an angle, I added 2 mm spacers, so the servo is 2 mm off th edge (not bad at all IMO) and link is straight ....do you have a pic of how you did yours?
I have the servo mounted inside the servomounts towards the centre of the car, i'm using a kimborough servo saver with an xray balljoint and its about 1mm away from the topdeck. No picture though cos its way to technical for me

Looking at your picture i think you could move the servo towards the middle of the car and mount the balljoint on the other side of the servosaver. The back of my servo is 6mm from the edge of the chassis like this. Hope that explained it well enough. TBH yours looks fine as it is.
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Old 10-18-2006, 08:56 AM   #9412
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Doing it that way, the screw part of the stud hits the top deck, a different servo saver (one not as "wide") would definitely take care of that ...I'll probably leave it as is as it seems to work ok (at lease on the bench LOL) .



Quote:
Originally Posted by Robfo
I have the servo mounted inside the servomounts towards the centre of the car, i'm using a kimborough servo saver with an xray balljoint and its about 1mm away from the topdeck. No picture though cos its way to technical for me

Looking at your picture i think you could move the servo towards the middle of the car and mount the balljoint on the other side of the servosaver. The back of my servo is 6mm from the edge of the chassis like this. Hope that explained it well enough. TBH yours looks fine as it is.
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Old 10-18-2006, 11:46 AM   #9413
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In the latest picture of the car, the rear bulkheads look very close together. Presumably, to achieve the same advantage the offset bulkhead from Corally USA gave us. But, if the entire rear is indeed that narrow, would that mean significant changes to several parts? The diffs would have to be even on both sides I would think, instead of having a long and short side. And how would you make width in the rear? Longer axles, and using the outside hole on the hubs/arm? It seems like some significant changes would be required to make that happen. The pulley definitely looks more narrow, and with a much smaller gap. It's turning out to be an interesting look car, that's for sure. It looks a lot more like a new car in this picture.
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Old 10-18-2006, 02:25 PM   #9414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Doing it that way, the screw part of the stud hits the top deck, a different servo saver (one not as "wide") would definitely take care of that ...I'll probably leave it as is as it seems to work ok (at lease on the bench LOL) .
Ah i see what the difference is, i am using an xray ballyoint with the head ofthe screw towards the topdeck so its much thinner than an nut and ballstud. Anyway i'm sure both ways will be fine on the track.
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Old 10-18-2006, 04:21 PM   #9415
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When will the new car be out. Wwhat date please.
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:06 PM   #9416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotyournumber
When will the new car be out. Wwhat date please.
4/1/2007
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:18 PM   #9417
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nice date !!!!!!!
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:42 PM   #9418
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Hahha, nice. I don't think you can front-load your April Fool's jokes.
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:55 PM   #9419
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syn, he might mean January 4, 2007.

mm/dd/yy > dd/mm/yy
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Old 10-18-2006, 05:58 PM   #9420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamge
syn, he might mean January 4, 2007.

mm/dd/yy > dd/mm/yy
Nope definately April 1, 2007
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