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Old 10-13-2006, 04:22 PM   #9376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
I will try and get the website updated with all the items on the RDX Parts list. We leave for iHobby Expo tuesday so not much time left. None of the items will arrive until the week after the Expo.

At the moment we do not have the new chassis and stiffner plate coming in.

Jeff
And you thought you had this weekend off........
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Old 10-14-2006, 10:50 AM   #9377
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Great night running my RDX one-way car on carpet. Ran against all the foam cars and lapped within 0.5 to 1.3 seconds of them.

I started with a PF Mazda 6 and car was ultra smooth. I then put on the Parma Type M and car had a slight off feeling mid corner so I went one longer on rear camber link and car was faster.

I then took off my RP30's (well used) and went to CS27's (Brand new) and car pushed the rest of the night. My fastest lap on RP30's was a 12.2 backed with a bunch of 12.3's finishing on 12.5. ON the CS27's I dropped to 12.5's backed with 12.7's finishing on 13.2's. Seemed like the RP's finshed stronger too.

Any thoughts from you rubber gurus? Maybe the CS27's need s lightly different set-up than RP's to get the max out of them?

Ray
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Old 10-14-2006, 03:07 PM   #9378
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ray,
RP's are just faster tires.they dont last as long as the CS 27's
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Old 10-14-2006, 07:18 PM   #9379
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Arrow spool for rdx

eBay Listing Confirmed: Corally RDX Spool clean (290039001020)
selling a spool for an rdx if your looking 1.00
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Old 10-14-2006, 08:33 PM   #9380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
ray,
RP's are just faster tires.they dont last as long as the CS 27's

Thanks-I wasnt sure if it was a significant difference, but I think it was by the lap times. No harder to drive-just felt like everything happened slower.
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Old 10-14-2006, 10:09 PM   #9381
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Here was my final solution. I tried heating it, I tried the wrench idea, I even tried a screw extractor. No luck with any of them. I will have to wait and se if the hub is weakened too much by the slit. The only other solution was to buy a new hub anyway so ntohing lost by trying.
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Team Corally RDX Touring Car-untitled.jpg  
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Old 10-15-2006, 12:09 AM   #9382
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Ran the car with the new Orion 3200 LiPo tonight. It's a little narrow for the battery slots and wants to slide around, so I put two thin rubber o-rings between the battery strap and the top of the pack to put a little extra pressure on it. It stayed in place all night, no problem. I won all four races, and didn't hit much of anything aside from a good whack on the battery side (hit a wall) when I went too hot into a corner. The battery stayed in its spot just fine.

I went double tall with 8 gram weights all over the car and I'm still only at 48oz. I guess I have stick weights to the strap.
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:09 AM   #9383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Thanks-I wasnt sure if it was a significant difference, but I think it was by the lap times. No harder to drive-just felt like everything happened slower.

no problem dude.i found that out by doing back to back tests with new tires.RP's were good for .02 per lap up front
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:37 AM   #9384
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One thing I notice when running the setups from the big races is that my car seems like it's too stuck in the rear. I don't want to slide around turns or anything, but when I watch videos from the big races, it seems like the back side of the car is constantly trying to catch up to the front. I imagine this is what people talk about when they say they're trying to "free up" the rear of the car.

Maybe it's because I'm not carrying as much corner speed as those guys (yet), but my car doesn't do that. We have a fast, sweeping turn, and I feel like the car is digging in too hard in the back, and not allowing it to rotate as easily as it should. Maybe it's just the nature of the turn, I dunno.

I suppose I'll consult my XXX-Main setup book and try some things to reduce traction in the rear just a bit. Problem is, I have plenty of steering, so taking traction away from the back will give me more than I need in the front. I guess it's also possible that my G6 body (I got a few painted, trying to burn through them in the club before going back to a DNA or Alpha) could be the culprit, but I have a hard time believing the body is the only culprit, it seems like such a minor thing compared to actual setup.
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:05 AM   #9385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill
Jeff,

Do you have any instructions for installing the new center steering on my RDX? Picked up all the required parts from Shane's store at the IIC.

Planning to use it for TC Stock Rubber racing at Stockton; but, not totally sure it is best suited to a rubber setup.

Thanks.
I've got both mine ready to try out at Stockton this weekend. Other than the instructions already found on this thread I had to:
  • Cut the top of the servo link ball cup to clear the sway bar mount (see red arrow in pic below) and
  • Dremmel a little off each end of the steering linkage ball cups (see purple arrow in pic below)
  • Since I am running the 4 mm chassis I also had to dremmel off some material so I could mount the servo (see green arrow in pic below)
  • Since I am running the offset motor mount, I had to dremmel off some of the material to clear the motor mount (see yellow arrow)
  • And I also had to dremmel out some material so I could loosen the battery brace rear screw (see white arrow)
Oh and for those that were asking, once installed and using hudy guages *full lock* the inner wheel is at 28 degrees, outer at 16 degrees ...I'm not sure how to "figure out" ackerman from that.







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Old 10-16-2006, 10:33 AM   #9386
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Syndrome,

You might want to try and run more droop (uptravel) in the rear to help the car pivot in the middle of the turn (free up the rear end). This will not add alot of steering at corner entry, but let the car transfer more weight to the front of the car (in the middle of the turn).

Also from what I have seen and heard, the DNA turns in harder compared to the alpha, but provides a more stable feel.

Are you running the narrow hubs on the rear? I think that will help free the car up some also.
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Old 10-16-2006, 12:14 PM   #9387
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Harsh,

The Ackerman angle is the difference in steering angle between the two wheels. In this case it is 12 degrees. In the normal steering setup we have the option on 0,3, and 6 degrees. Thanks for your help!

Remind me to throw you a fender next time we are on the track together...
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Old 10-16-2006, 12:17 PM   #9388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Advil
Harsh,

The Ackerman angle is the difference in steering angle between the two wheels. In this case it is 12 degrees. In the normal steering setup we have the option on 0,3, and 6 degrees. Thanks for your help!

Remind me to throw you a fender next time we are on the track together...
So what does that mean? i.e. 12 degrees = snow plow or wild 'n wiggly?
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Old 10-16-2006, 12:25 PM   #9389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
So what does that mean? i.e. 12 degrees = snow plow or wild 'n wiggly?
I have been told that the new steering setup will give us more steering overall. I did not test it this weekend but I will let you know how it works out after this Saturday. This is on rubber tires. I have also been told that the Foam tire guys are seeing less wear with this setup.....

P.S. Ask Clint if he will look up the next time I say, "Don't look up, Crack Kills!" LOL
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Old 10-16-2006, 12:26 PM   #9390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Advil
Harsh,



Remind me to throw you a fender next time we are on the track together...
¿Que?
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