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Old 10-01-2006, 02:37 PM   #9226
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Hmm...
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Old 10-01-2006, 03:33 PM   #9227
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Hmm...
Does it make you faster?
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:39 PM   #9228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pballkid21587
Some people dont have a track that is perminent that they can get practice/setup time on, so they post on forums like these in an effort to shortcut their issues due to the small amount of the they get at the track, think about things before you post them.
That's exactly right. I race at a community hall in the winter time, and the track is set up and tore down every day. Reading the manual is fine and all, but without the experience, it's tough to know which changes to make when practice is so limited. There's a ton of knowledge on this forum, and it's an awesome asset to draw from.
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:44 PM   #9229
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What is the best tool to use to remove the circlip (holds thrust bearing) out of the diff hubs and where would I buy one?
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Old 10-01-2006, 04:49 PM   #9230
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Originally Posted by RichO
What is the best tool to use to remove the circlip (holds thrust bearing) out of the diff hubs and where would I buy one?
You need a small pair of snap ring pliers. Sears sells 'em. Some people say you can use lexan scissors, too.
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Old 10-01-2006, 06:30 PM   #9231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichO
What is the best tool to use to remove the circlip (holds thrust bearing) out of the diff hubs and where would I buy one?

Take a tiny pair of wire cutters (thinner the blades the better) and dremel the tip so it looks like snap ring pliers that are closed tight.

Absolutely the best snap ring pliers Ive used on the RDX clips. Postive engagment and never bends the snap ring out of shape. Very sharp though so dont get poked.
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Old 10-01-2006, 08:28 PM   #9232
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That antenna thing is listed as a part for the 12X. I just thought it was interesting that it was for an updated RDX that doesn't seem to be available yet. I'm beginning to think the new/updated kit may be a lot farther along than we realize. Though, I suppose the product shot of it from a month ago made that pretty clear already. Is Corally sitting on an updated car that's ready to go, but waiting until the right time to release it? The mind boggles. :-)
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Old 10-01-2006, 09:08 PM   #9233
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Now seems like a good time for a release. Losi guys are waiting for their new car, something like 1 month away. Xray guys are waiting for their new car, something like 1-3 months away. AE guys are waiting for their new car, something like 3-9 months away. Tamiya just released their $600 car, and HPI's has launched and is now old news.
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Old 10-02-2006, 04:35 AM   #9234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
That antenna thing is listed as a part for the 12X. I just thought it was interesting that it was for an updated RDX that doesn't seem to be available yet. I'm beginning to think the new/updated kit may be a lot farther along than we realize. Though, I suppose the product shot of it from a month ago made that pretty clear already. Is Corally sitting on an updated car that's ready to go, but waiting until the right time to release it? The mind boggles. :-)

They are probably in a similar situation as AE. AE is totally blowing out there warehouse stock of the TC4FT.... Im sure once the new belted car drops they dont want any old TC4 stock sitting around.
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Old 10-02-2006, 04:47 AM   #9235
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Default Wheelbase info

Just looking for clarification on wheelbase settings. Going through some setup sheets is see setting of WHEELBASE: MID

Would that be a shim on both sides of each arm?
There are 2 shims for each end of the car, so at each end you can move the arms forward,reverse or center them. The shims look to be 1mm.

Anyway if anyone could define the different terms being used to co-inside with the position of the shims that would be great.

Out of the box the car builds with the arms in the middle of the shims... IS that MID? OR would the shims placed so that the arms come closer in the middle of the car be MID?

Thanks
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Old 10-02-2006, 04:07 PM   #9236
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It's beginning to look like the new topdeck will make using the Orion LiPo packs basically impossible since it blocks the spot where you'd put your connectors. I can keep using the old deck on the existing car, but if the new car looks anything like the picture, we might be out of luck. That's disappointing.
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Old 10-02-2006, 06:03 PM   #9237
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RichO...

i have tried to use the snap ring pliers from different brands.. sears, snap-on, mac tools.... the problem with the ones ive tried is that when squeezed the tips tend to everlap slightly deforming the snap rings.. making the install questionable....

the sure/ cheap fix is going to local hardware department of any store.. start looking out for some inexpensive long needle nose pliers, the smaller type.. and dremel the tip enough to grab the clips.... i have found that they close straight when squeezed.. they have worked the best without deforming the clip!!!

BTW a 12 year old kid borrowed it and was amazed how easy it was with good tools.......

hope this helps...
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Old 10-02-2006, 08:17 PM   #9238
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Just picked up a used RDX and was wondering how do you tell the difference between the Low Hingepin adjusters and the standard kit ones. Wanna make sure I don't already have them before I order them.
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Old 10-02-2006, 08:54 PM   #9239
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Wouldnt those work?
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Old 10-02-2006, 10:35 PM   #9240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FT_TC3Racer
Just picked up a used RDX and was wondering how do you tell the difference between the Low Hingepin adjusters and the standard kit ones. Wanna make sure I don't already have them before I order them.
The kit comes standard with low roll center blocks (or low hingpin adjusters) and the aftermarket ones are the ultra low roll center blocks. As the name implies , they adjust the roll center of the car. It is really fine adjustment option.
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