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Old 09-17-2006, 04:42 PM   #9061
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just need a litlte help whit my setup! im running 19t foam and my car is pushing on throttle while entering the corner what can i do to make my car not pushing whit more speed?? i was thinking about those tunning let me know what you think??

1. less droop on the front(im running 2mm and i try 1.5 or maybe go whit 1mm front and 1,5mm back (like Jarrod Langlois setup)
2.50wt in the back instead of 40wt
3.higher roll center in the rear like just trun the block in up side but still in the low hole

what guys thing?

as to say im running basic uk car so i dont have the 3.4mm top deck 4mm chassis no low roll block no lowered shock tower lol!! i know it sound crazy but i can still do great lap time at my club whitout those CARPET MUST lol!

Later! guys
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Old 09-17-2006, 05:12 PM   #9062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamPink91
I find that curved body scissors work in a pinch. No pun intended.

yeah i have the same scissores

there actually toe nail scssiors you can get them for about $5 at the supermarket
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Old 09-17-2006, 06:56 PM   #9063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T1Raycer
just need a litlte help whit my setup! im running 19t foam and my car is pushing on throttle while entering the corner what can i do to make my car not pushing whit more speed?? i was thinking about those tunning let me know what you think??

1. less droop on the front(im running 2mm and i try 1.5 or maybe go whit 1mm front and 1,5mm back (like Jarrod Langlois setup)
2.50wt in the back instead of 40wt
3.higher roll center in the rear like just trun the block in up side but still in the low hole

what guys thing?

as to say im running basic uk car so i dont have the 3.4mm top deck 4mm chassis no low roll block no lowered shock tower lol!! i know it sound crazy but i can still do great lap time at my club whitout those CARPET MUST lol!

Later! guys

Less droop up front and try some anti-squat in the rear.
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Old 09-17-2006, 08:58 PM   #9064
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I have a build question:

On the rear, I am using the new arms with the shock mounted in the outside hole. For some reason, the shock collar is rubbing on the camber link. I checked the manual and it doesn't specify any washers or shims in for the shocks. Are they needed with the new arms to space the shock away from the arm to clear the camber link?

Or have I messed up somewhere else?
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:01 PM   #9065
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I shimmed the rear shocks with one of the black 3mm nuts that came with the car kit. Since you don't use the alum shock extension you need to shim it.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:03 PM   #9066
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I just picked up a used RDX to go racing with. I downloaded Brian McGreevy's Novak setup sheet to run stock, carpet foam and I have some questions about the setup.

The low roll blocks... I assume that I install them with the dot down (positions 1 and 1)?

I've also read you need to cut the shocks to use the low tower, is that true? Can I try it without?

Thanks for the help
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:07 PM   #9067
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Yes. dots down.

You dont have to cut shock shafts just take a few mm off of the shock end to get low enough ride height. You cut shafts just to center the piston lower in the shock.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:15 PM   #9068
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Thanks for the help on that.

Is there an easier way to change them other than to remove one bulkhead?

The 2mm downstop... I did a search and found someone saying that I should be able to lift the car 2mm above ride height, and the tires should just barely contact. Is that correct? Would that not be the same as using my droop blocks at 7 (5 for ride height and 2 for the downstop)?

Thanks
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:19 PM   #9069
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Nope, remove bulkheads.

Hard to say by using droop blocks b/c ride height will affect it. Adjust it like you said then check with blocks make sure the arms are even then recheck it at ride height.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:24 PM   #9070
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What's the trick to setting the belt tensions? There's nothing in the manual on it.

Any tricks to ensure the chassis has no tweak in it after everything's tightened up?
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:28 PM   #9071
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Move spur gear mount up or down to adjust.

Put chassis on flat surface w/o tires touch all four corners and see if it rocks. If so, loosen and retighten bulkhead screws on bottom of chassis and the top deck screws.
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Old 09-17-2006, 09:28 PM   #9072
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belt tension...is easy but can be a bit tricky at times..
i loosen both screws then midly tighten the screw on the battery side..just enough to let me raise the spur up and down without too much grip...
i push down or lift up on the spur gear, in little increments...checking both belts at the same time....until it has the right amount of tension needed...
then hold the spur tight and tighten up the screws...that should get you there...

thumbs up with barnacle on the tweak...easiest thing to check...
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Old 09-17-2006, 10:48 PM   #9073
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Thanks for the help

I am having some trouble figuring out how to mount my electronics in this car.

I have a GTX, airtronics 94360 servo, spektrum rx, and a transponder to mount.

I found a couple old posts but wondered if anyone had come up with a new way instead of mounting the rx on the servo
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Old 09-17-2006, 11:34 PM   #9074
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Stand the receiver on its side between the servo and GTX or stand the GTX on end. It should fit with no problem.
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Old 09-17-2006, 11:46 PM   #9075
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmintimidator
Thanks for the help on that.

Is there an easier way to change them other than to remove one bulkhead?

The 2mm downstop... I did a search and found someone saying that I should be able to lift the car 2mm above ride height, and the tires should just barely contact. Is that correct? Would that not be the same as using my droop blocks at 7 (5 for ride height and 2 for the downstop)?

Thanks
I replaced the torx head screws on my car with 2mm allen head screws. I use the HUDY ball end 2 mm and am able to remove my roll blocks without removing the bulkheads. I also replaced the black cone washers under the roll block screws with countersunk washers, but that was just for looks.
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