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Old 09-13-2006, 07:55 PM   #9016
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Edit: Nevermind, that made no sense.
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:00 PM   #9017
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The manual completely fails to mention the fact that the thrust washers have a different ID.
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:02 PM   #9018
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The spur looks to me like a regular Kimbrough 64p spur. I have run those on my car since I buoght it and have yet to have a belt flip. Just some info for ya . . .
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:06 PM   #9019
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and thought we had it figured it out....

back to new ideas..
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:50 PM   #9020
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andrew is right its just a standard kimbrough spur.

As far as the idea of it too tight - I'v tried running without the belt tensioner totally and that seems to make it worse. I did however adjust the drive shaft a little tonight it was a little cock-eyed. However I have tore this thing down a million times including install that drive shaft and it still has done it. When I first got the car for the first month or two it never flipped I just don't know what has changed, but what ever it is It hasn't gone a way.

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Old 09-13-2006, 08:53 PM   #9021
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I think it might be the lay shaft in the high position and the belt tensioner immediately behind the front pulley. I feel the pulley should never be put on the front mounting location. Once that is done the belt is usually stretched, and the layshaft position may make it worse. You can tell the front is super tight as the rear belt is sitting way loose and arching upward.

New belt and do not put the tensioner on. I always run the layshaft in the middle. I am sure you already tried this, but most people put the pulley on first, which stretches the new belt.

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Old 09-13-2006, 10:43 PM   #9022
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Jeff- See you in a few days buddy!
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:22 PM   #9023
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I have seen 2 RDX's with a belt flipping problem. On both cars it was caused by the same thing - the battery sliding around in an impact. On one of the cars it was obvious as the battery would slide into the belt and stay there. On the other car the battery would always slide back into it's proper position so it wasn't so obvious. Both cars were fixed by using some self-adhesive foam on the bottom of the battery strap to tighten things up a bit. You don't want it too tight but you should not be able to wiggle the battery around when the strap is installed.

Hope this helps.

I would also suggest a new camber link for the left rear

Sushi, Good luck in Vegas!
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:49 PM   #9024
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I rebuilt the diffs tonight with new parts from a rebuild kit. For the first time ever, I used Corally's diff lube on the balls instead of Associated. The diffs are way, way, WAY different with Corally's lube. I can only assume they were designed with this lube in mind, and this is how they're intended to work. That stuff is a lot thicker and more sticky than the Associated lube. The diffs feel smooth, but man, there's a whole lot more friction as a result of the thick grease.

I don't know if it'll make a difference in the end, but I'm hoping so. I have a really hard time keeping the diffs tight enough to not slip with the torque of the 4300, and have to rebuild them frequently. I made sure to replace all the parts with the pieces from the rebuild kit, including the cone washers, screw, snap ring, etc. I also made sure to get the smaller thrust washer closest to the screw head like EA mentioned a while back. It finally feels like things are as they should be.

I don't know if it matters, but I'm using proper thrust bearing grease (Much More) on my thrust. The manual for the RDX says to use the same lube as you do on the balls... not sure if that was a mistake or not.
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Old 09-14-2006, 12:08 AM   #9025
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
The spur looks to me like a regular Kimbrough 64p spur. I have run those on my car since I buoght it and have yet to have a belt flip. Just some info for ya . . .
Me too... I don't think it's the spur.
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Old 09-14-2006, 12:11 AM   #9026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stumper1
I have seen 2 RDX's with a belt flipping problem. On both cars it was caused by the same thing - the battery sliding around in an impact. On one of the cars it was obvious as the battery would slide into the belt and stay there. On the other car the battery would always slide back into it's proper position so it wasn't so obvious. Both cars were fixed by using some self-adhesive foam on the bottom of the battery strap to tighten things up a bit. You don't want it too tight but you should not be able to wiggle the battery around when the strap is installed.

Hope this helps.

I would also suggest a new camber link for the left rear

Sushi, Good luck in Vegas!
I had this problem in my MSX and it was a dog to figure out... totally forgot about it until you mentioned it stumper1. You may also want to check to see if your battery bars hit the belt anywhere (you may actually see black marks on the bars if the belt is rubbing the bars).
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Old 09-14-2006, 01:18 AM   #9027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnacle
What rollcenter positions are you using, front and rear?

Try 1 deg rear toe and shorten rear camber link on tower and maybe even move to middle hole on hub (gives link more angle).

Take a look at Ertrachters setup from Vegas at Corallyusa.com

Im rinning lower all around with the front block upside down (running a one way)

think i may shorten the rear link..... if i go into the middle hole on my hub, although shortening it, wont the "more angle" counteract the shortening a little?

Thanks Barnical
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Old 09-14-2006, 04:25 AM   #9028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
I rebuilt the diffs tonight with new parts from a rebuild kit. For the first time ever, I used Corally's diff lube on the balls instead of Associated. The diffs are way, way, WAY different with Corally's lube. I can only assume they were designed with this lube in mind, and this is how they're intended to work. That stuff is a lot thicker and more sticky than the Associated lube. The diffs feel smooth, but man, there's a whole lot more friction as a result of the thick grease.

I don't know if it'll make a difference in the end, but I'm hoping so. I have a really hard time keeping the diffs tight enough to not slip with the torque of the 4300, and have to rebuild them frequently. I made sure to replace all the parts with the pieces from the rebuild kit, including the cone washers, screw, snap ring, etc. I also made sure to get the smaller thrust washer closest to the screw head like EA mentioned a while back. It finally feels like things are as they should be.

I don't know if it matters, but I'm using proper thrust bearing grease (Much More) on my thrust. The manual for the RDX says to use the same lube as you do on the balls... not sure if that was a mistake or not.
different thickness lubes is a tuning option to control the dampening of the diff or limit how free it rotates for different track conditions.to eliminate slippage you can sand your diff rings with a very fine grit sandpaper to give the diff balls something to grab when the diff tries to slip.this will not make the diff feel gritty if you use fine sandpaper.it will make it so you dont have to overtighten the diff to eliminate slippage.
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Old 09-14-2006, 05:39 AM   #9029
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Old 09-14-2006, 08:24 AM   #9030
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Hmm, didn't know that. I'll give it a try on the next rebuild and see how it works out. A little more grab is really all it needs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by protc3
different thickness lubes is a tuning option to control the dampening of the diff or limit how free it rotates for different track conditions.to eliminate slippage you can sand your diff rings with a very fine grit sandpaper to give the diff balls something to grab when the diff tries to slip.this will not make the diff feel gritty if you use fine sandpaper.it will make it so you dont have to overtighten the diff to eliminate slippage.
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