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Old 09-13-2006, 06:03 AM   #8971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Ceramic bearings are a fragile joke. Save your money and buy cheap bearings. Replace the ones that go bad without a second thought.

5x9x3 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=32
10x15x4 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=24
i have never tried ceramics myself, but i believe in the $1 bearing from avidrc - just as it was stated above - if the bearings are at all crunchy - i throw it in the trash and pop in a new bearing -

just my .02
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Old 09-13-2006, 06:36 AM   #8972
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Hello all, just a few comments concerning the car pushing mid corner comments. By no means am I saying your wrong, just from the way i currently understand it. Feel free to explain further.

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I would remove droop from the rear. I guess I would need to know more about the setup.
Ok the cars pushing mid corner, the car pushes because the the front isnt getting enough traction. To rectify this with droop, I would want to try and keep as much weight on the front of the car. To do this I'd reduce the front droop. ( if anyone is un familiar with droop, i say reduce the front droop meaning remove the amount of downward travel) So my removing the droop the nose of the car wont be able to lift, trying to keep the weight forward. And I would do the opposite on the rear. I'd increase the rear droop to try and lift the rear in aid to plant the front.


Quote:
Also try 6 deg of caster too. That always helps the front end bite harder in the middle and exit of the corner.
Caster is very relevant to what kind of track your running, big high speed tracks generally like more caster. If your pushing problem is on a small tight track I wouldnt increase the caster. Small caster angles will provide more steering in low speed corners, with less initial turn in.
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Old 09-13-2006, 07:35 AM   #8973
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I always found that at least for stock foam droop mattered more side to side than front to back since there is alot more weight transfer going in that direction. So more front droop, espically mid corenr will give you more bite, and the amount of rear droop basically sets at what part of the corner you want your car to really turn.
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Old 09-13-2006, 07:38 AM   #8974
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I've noticed on a few of the setups on the Corally page that the drivers are using the Associated droop gauge. I don't have access to one, so does anyone know how the numbers on the Associated gauge compare to the Hudy gauge? (i.e. 3 on the associated = ?? on the Hudy)

Thanks
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:08 AM   #8975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted B.
I've noticed on a few of the setups on the Corally page that the drivers are using the Associated droop gauge. I don't have access to one, so does anyone know how the numbers on the Associated gauge compare to the Hudy gauge? (i.e. 3 on the associated = ?? on the Hudy)

Thanks
Both are in mm .... both are the same measurements.
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:18 AM   #8976
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We will always help out. We just want to promote the local hobby shops since they provide the places to race.

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Is Corally ever gonna come out with a gas sedan??Toso is sure looking good with Kyosho at the world's, TQ with 2 more quals. to go.
That would be cool.
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:25 AM   #8977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckman996
Both are in mm .... both are the same measurements.
Thanks. I just noticed that some sheets specificaly say "measure droop on AE gauge", so I just wanted to make sure that they equate to the same numbers on the Hudy gauge.
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:51 AM   #8978
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I'm not sure about others but the tm droop gauge starts at -2!
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Old 09-13-2006, 08:55 AM   #8979
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I consulted my XXX-Main book last night after thinking through the droop suggestion and found the same thing you did. I went to 1.5mm (up) in the front and 2mm in the rear, and had a much better time with corner exit.

We've got a pretty tight track, so I may give 4 degrees a try next week to see how that feels.
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:09 AM   #8980
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8800
Ok the cars pushing mid corner, the car pushes because the the front isnt getting enough traction. To rectify this with droop, I would want to try and keep as much weight on the front of the car. To do this I'd reduce the front droop. ( if anyone is un familiar with droop, i say reduce the front droop meaning remove the amount of downward travel) So my removing the droop the nose of the car wont be able to lift, trying to keep the weight forward. And I would do the opposite on the rear. I'd increase the rear droop to try and lift the rear in aid to plant the front.
True, removing front droop will prevent lift. The problem is the weight is not rolling to the outside front tire. Getting more steering is not just changes on the front end, if the rear end is locked in then the car will not rotate.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 8800
Caster is very relevant to what kind of track your running, big high speed tracks generally like more caster. If your pushing problem is on a small tight track I wouldnt increase the caster. Small caster angles will provide more steering in low speed corners, with less initial turn in.
You will get more mid to exit steering with more caster.

Jeff
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:16 AM   #8981
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Old 09-13-2006, 10:59 AM   #8982
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Default Belt flipping

Ok I have posted on this subject before, but Its getting to the point that I'm thinking about switching cars because of it.

Wondering if people have run into the problem of the front belt flipping all the time?
I have tried, No belt tensioner, belt tension in the forward hole, belt tensioner in the middle hole. I put a new belt after every day of racing(expensive!!!) made sure diffs weere in the right direction. I have check to make sure its not hitting my pinion or my battery(Its close to my battery, but still not touching) everything!
and to know avail. I don't even have to hit hard, I can almost be sure that If I hit one pipe or bump a car I have a about a 1 in 3 chance of it flipping. If I do get slammed into a pipe then I can almost count on it. Once it does, my speeds goes to crap I can tell immediately what happened and I just pull the car. So unless I run a almost clean run, I don't finish

Raced last night at our club race with a brand new belt, it flipped, so I put on the tensioner, the problem with the tensioner is that the belt always seems to slide to the outside of the tensioner so its not even in the groove anymore. It doesn't scrub as much speed, but it still is noticable.

Any suggestions? I love the car and dont want to get a different one, but If I can't figure out the problem I'm going to have to.

Woody
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:05 AM   #8983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC_Woody
Ok I have posted on this subject before, but Its getting to the point that I'm thinking about switching cars because of it.

Wondering if people have run into the problem of the front belt flipping all the time?
I have tried, No belt tensioner, belt tension in the forward hole, belt tensioner in the middle hole. I put a new belt after every day of racing(expensive!!!) made sure diffs weere in the right direction. I have check to make sure its not hitting my pinion or my battery(Its close to my battery, but still not touching) everything!
and to know avail. I don't even have to hit hard, I can almost be sure that If I hit one pipe or bump a car I have a about a 1 in 3 chance of it flipping. If I do get slammed into a pipe then I can almost count on it. Once it does, my speeds goes to crap I can tell immediately what happened and I just pull the car. So unless I run a almost clean run, I don't finish

Raced last night at our club race with a brand new belt, it flipped, so I put on the tensioner, the problem with the tensioner is that the belt always seems to slide to the outside of the tensioner so its not even in the groove anymore. It doesn't scrub as much speed, but it still is noticable.

Any suggestions? I love the car and dont want to get a different one, but If I can't figure out the problem I'm going to have to.

Woody
Ive only had my belt flip twice and it was after I tore a bit of it. I tightened it up with the tensioner and it stopped doing it. Definately sounds like something is not installed correctly. Ive never had my belt go to the outside of the tensioner. I even broke the holder on the tensioner so that about half of the outside groove was missing and it never went to the outside of the tensioner. Can you post a picture of your car? Someone might be able to spot something.
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:29 AM   #8984
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I know you said you checked to make sure sure the diffs were in the right direction, but it really sounds like they are the wrong direction which would want to make the belts slide off the tensioner and might cause the flip. But like what was said post a pic of it and maybe someone will be able to see what the problem is.
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Old 09-13-2006, 12:37 PM   #8985
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If any of you foam/brushless guys are feeling bored in early December, we're going to host a race with a SS4300/LiPo class. KC is right in the middle, so it's close to everybody. :-)

http://www.fastlanehobby.com/flyers/nats2006.pdf
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