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Old 09-11-2006, 10:30 PM   #8956
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
I'm running on foams.

I'm not convinced it's not my driving that's the issue, but at my current skill level, it feels like the car turns really well during entry, and pushes like mad on exit.
Adam -

It's weight partially transfer AND it's partially throttle control.

what weight oil are you using....?
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:40 PM   #8957
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We must be at the same skill level Adam. I feel the same about my car when I have my 19t or 4300 in it. In stock it feels perfect. Im running on foams with the standard 40/60 oil. I have found some of the problem is running tires past their prime also. The tires wear rapidly enough that before I know it I am running on 55 mm tires.
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:10 PM   #8958
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thanks TBE.....I'll try messing with the droop this weekend...hopefull will see an improvement...currently have it set at 1.5 over ride height of 4.5
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Old 09-11-2006, 11:47 PM   #8959
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I'm running McGreevy's setup from, uh, the Novak race I think. So 60 in the front, 40 in the rear.

I'll mess with droop a little bit tomorrow night when we race and see what I can come up with. I haven't noticed that it's much different between stock, 19T and 4300, though I imagine the higher speeds would exacerbate the problem.

I imagine throttle control has a lot to do with it. I feel like I slow down too much entering the turns, and am not aggressive enough coming out of them. It's been said it looks like I'm driving too cautious, or 80%, so maybe there's something to that. Wheel time, I suppose.

Andrew, I tear through front tires too. I started trying to drive more flowing and "swoopy" this past race night, thinking I could keep more corner speed. My lap times were still good, and I didn't have nearly the amount of tire wear. So, again, that brings me back to driving. I guess it always ends there.
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Old 09-12-2006, 12:14 AM   #8960
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Tell me again about the Platinum LiPo in your RDX. Without the cool solder weights you made, is is secure in the car? Say, if I servo tape it to my battery strap or something? I'm getting extremely impatient waiting for the new Orion pack, and figure if I can make the bigger one stay secure in the car, it might work better for me anyway. When you're plugged into the connectors, do you have to go through the hole in the topdeck? Battery connectors toward the front or rear of the car?

Another month plus with my busted old NiMH packs (been waiting on LiPo) sounds like torture.
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Old 09-12-2006, 05:11 AM   #8961
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Youre probably right about the driving style. I am sure I am a long way off.

On a side note I set my sphere on the least aggressive throtttle map and noticed it felt much better. I didn't bark the diffs at all and they still felt decent after one day of racing. Much more like a brushed motor.

As for the battery . . .I tried it once without the solder weights. I had a lexan contraption trying to hold it in. It worked untill I hit a board, and then the battery shifted under the battery strap. I don't know how servo tape would hold up. I might try that and then wrap battery tape around it in a couple spots. I suppose you would need to round the edges of the battery strap so the sharp corners wouldn't cut the tape though. If it matters, I ran the car with only the front and back two solder weights for a long time and the battery didn't move at all. I only added the ones in between to balance it.
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:52 AM   #8962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Tell me again about the Platinum LiPo in your RDX. Without the cool solder weights you made, is is secure in the car? Say, if I servo tape it to my battery strap or something? I'm getting extremely impatient waiting for the new Orion pack, and figure if I can make the bigger one stay secure in the car, it might work better for me anyway. When you're plugged into the connectors, do you have to go through the hole in the topdeck? Battery connectors toward the front or rear of the car?

Another month plus with my busted old NiMH packs (been waiting on LiPo) sounds like torture.
First you need longer screws for the battery strap. The Lipo will be fine in the RDX without putting anything in the slot but if you take a hard hit it will slide around (either out of the car or toward the belt). If you have the thicker chassis it is difficult to get the battery in and out from under the top deck with things attached to the bottom of the battery. The other connector does go through the space in the top deck.
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:00 AM   #8963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olhipster1
I'm having the same problem running foams.
4 degree Chubs.
car wants to push on mid.
i put 1mm wheel spacers in front and back which made the car feel a bit more neutral.

should i try changing my antidive/kickup? is so up on the front or down..
the car handles entry and exit just fine.
I would remove droop from the rear. I guess I would need to know more about the setup.

Removing droop from the rear allows the car to pivot. The RDX is nose heavy so increasing droop tends to make it plow.

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Old 09-12-2006, 10:50 AM   #8964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
I would remove droop from the rear. I guess I would need to know more about the setup.

Removing droop from the rear allows the car to pivot. The RDX is nose heavy so increasing droop tends to make it plow.

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see ya next week....

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Old 09-12-2006, 12:02 PM   #8965
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Hahahaha Jeff messed up.

As for the push in the middle of the corner and out... try making a "drilled" lowered tower for the front. When you drill a std one it makes the upper row of holes become the lower row. This will put more angle on the camber link and let it grip in the middle and exit a little harder. There are posts about it from a long time ago on here, just do a search. This is what we were doing before Corally started making the "lowered" towers.

Also try 6 deg of caster too. That always helps the front end bite harder in the middle and exit of the corner.

You can also try and move the rear camber link further out on the rear hub... that tends to free the car up if you are looking for a little more rotation out of the rear in the middle and exit.

I know when the traction was low here at rain city I was running a little bit different setup and as traction came up I am moving towards setups that are closer to what we ran at carpet nationals.

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Old 09-12-2006, 12:16 PM   #8966
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Default Pushing on corner exit with foam and dual diff

I've only run dual diff & foam tires a couple of times, but when I did I had that same problem of pushing really bad coming out of the corners on power... I put some anti-squat in the rear and it made it really carve on power, just a thought.
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Old 09-12-2006, 07:50 PM   #8967
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Question for all RDX owners looking to get new bearings for the car are ceramic ones really worth it???


do they last longer ?

how do they hold up in crashes??

oil them like regular ones??


thanks

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Old 09-12-2006, 07:59 PM   #8968
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Hey Josh,
I've blown hundreds of $$ on good quality ceramics, and also used 5c bearings from cheap ebay stores, and i honestly cant really tell the difference.

Myself and another local racer have both gone for the "get a bucket of cheap bearings" strategy rather than ceramics, chuck em in your car, and when you rebuild the car, if they're notchy at all, even slightly, just throw them out... it's cheaper to buy bearings than it is to buy the shellite to clean them

however one thing i do still buy, is ceramic diff balls...

I get all my bearings nowadays from this place -> http://stores.ebay.com/WalawalaStore

just a note though - the RDX kit they has the big bearings for the oneway, so if you're running 2 diffs or a spool, then you wont have a 'complete' new set of bearings as such.

ive found the bearings to be quite decent quality, i just run them as-is (without flushing/oiling) and dont seem to have any problems with them.

the ceramics i bought by the way were from Boca bearings, all the wheel hub bearings died in 3 months, though i think this was because i flushed all the grease out and ran a thin oil, and didnt rebuild/oil them often enough. the ceramics were probably better than the ones i use now... but they're more of a risk/liability if you dont take 100% care of them.

hope this helps
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Old 09-13-2006, 12:34 AM   #8969
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Ceramic bearings are a fragile joke. Save your money and buy cheap bearings. Replace the ones that go bad without a second thought.

5x9x3 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=32
10x15x4 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=24
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Old 09-13-2006, 04:51 AM   #8970
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thanks for the info guys much apperciated
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