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Old 08-21-2006, 02:46 PM   #8566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
The snap rings are weird. There is a reason they are included in a diff rebuild kit so change it everytime. The rings tend to fatigue if you keep squeezing them and that causes high and low spots.

DO NOT compress the snap ring tips together. Only squeeze enough to get it into the diff halve. Otherwise that is where you run into problems.

Jeff
Do you ever find the factory installed clip might have the same problem? I tried a new diff half that I didnt touch (everything already in it for the thrust) and it was notchy too.

For the RDX upgrade those clips need to go!
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Old 08-21-2006, 02:52 PM   #8567
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Originally Posted by or8ital
Do you ever find the factory installed clip might have the same problem? I tried a new diff half that I didnt touch (everything already in it for the thrust) and it was notchy too.

For the RDX upgrade those clips need to go!
It is possible the stock ones might get compressed too much. Tough to say since we don't assemble them. I always rebuild things that come preassembled. Also make sure the flat side of the snap ring is facing outward.

I am not sure the effects of the smaller thrust washer on the outside. I will have to check with Rob.

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Old 08-21-2006, 03:32 PM   #8568
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Originally Posted by or8ital
The manual doesnt show them being different. What would the effects of putting them in backwards be? I cant imagine that is what is causing my problem. My guess is about half of them out there are installed backwards.
Ive never been able to figure out why the different sizes cause problems but they do. I ran into it on my xray last year at the halloween race. Built a diff and by time you got it tight enough for the pulley to stop spinning it had no diff action...Had to run it in a heat like that Came back in, dissasembled it and got the instruction manual out and noticed the differences in them. Put them in the right way in the same diff and it was butter smooth.

99% of guys out there dont know there is a difference in washers....I think its only like .2mm or something. But it makes a difference in the diff....at least on the Xray.

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Old 08-21-2006, 03:38 PM   #8569
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I had this problem and its the long part of the diff half rubbing on the inner hole of the thrust washer. If you look the inside hole of the thrust washer with the bigger hole is tapered so the diff half can fit in there. I noticed this becasue my car is anodized gold and the gold was rubbing off on the thrust washer. I put it in with the bigger hole top and was good to go.

Oh yeah and the 80 percent new arms definatley have 1 degree toe in. I ran them this weekend with no shims at all on carpet and the car was dialed.
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Old 08-21-2006, 05:22 PM   #8570
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1. Sweet! 80% NEW ARMS!! (I was thinking we would only get the aforementioned 35% new arms) Are they readily available?

2. I have found that the x-ray spring clips are a great replacement for the corally clips (the x-rays come in a pack of 10 by themselves for like 4 or 5 bux). I don't replace my thrust bearing and washers each time I rebuild my diff as the grittyness in my car is usually due to scratched diff rings. So I dont want to buy the thrust assembly just for the clip. In fact I have rebuilt my diffs the last 4 or 5 times only sanding the rings, relubing the balls and rings, cleaning and relubing the thrust assembly,and reassembling and reinstalling with no compromise in smoothness. Cheap too.

I just moved to a brushless sytem (ss4300+sphere comp)and have found that I have to tighten the diffs(especially the rear) MUCH more to keep it from slipping at start up due to the increased torque. This has lead to gritty diffs after as little as one race. I will be playing with some throttle expo to eliminate the need for tight diffs in the next month or so.
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Old 08-21-2006, 05:36 PM   #8571
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I'd like to also mimic Joel. I picked up a used RDX off the board here and the guy hooked me up with a ton of spares. I should see it next week. Now just to finish reading through this wealth of info!

Also, thanks to those who posted info for me when I was doing a crash course on learning the RDX over the weekend before I bought one.
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Old 08-21-2006, 06:21 PM   #8572
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The 4300 is the bane of my diffs. The torque that motor produces is obscene. I can't seem to keep them from slipping without practically locking them down. I've resorted to adjusting my driving style and dealing with a little slip here and there. I have to rebuild diffs frequently when using the 4300. I don't know if it's that way on all cars or not. I imagine it's going to be even worse next time I run it with the sintered rotor in there. The 13.5 does it a little bit too if you don't have the largest pinion you own on it.

I'm dumbfounded by this thrust washer thing. I'm surprised more people don't know about it... I've surely managed to get things wrong once or twice or every time in the last 2 years of building the car's diffs.
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:23 PM   #8573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty



1. Sweet! 80% NEW ARMS!! (I was thinking we would only get the aforementioned 35% new arms) Are they readily available?
He found a shop that had them still in stock. We had 35 sets sent to us originally and I highly doubt we will see them again. The new design is too beefy for 80% arms.

I spoke with Rob regarding the arms and the toe in. He had heard that as well and spoke with Constant. Constant denied it so perhaps the first batch were off. I tested some of the latest 35 arms and the pin is perfectly vertical.

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Old 08-21-2006, 09:37 PM   #8574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
He found a shop that had them still in stock. We had 35 sets sent to us originally and I highly doubt we will see them again. The new design is too beefy for 80% arms.

I spoke with Rob regarding the arms and the toe in. He had heard that as well and spoke with Constant. Constant denied it so perhaps the first batch were off. I tested some of the latest 35 arms and the pin is perfectly vertical.

Jeff
Oh well : ) Still cool that we are getting new arms. I assume the beefier design makes up for the reduction in stiffness. Probably makes them MUCH less likely to break being made of less brittle material while maintaining the stiffnes required for carpet/foam. Yea Corally!

http://integy.automated-shops.com/cg...42106426706.4c

Found these surfin integy's site and thought they looked interesting. A solid hex thats 4.2 mm thick and has an o-ring that looks like it might keep the pin from sliding out. If you search they have several thivknesses with this design as well as standard clamps and regular solid hexes. If the T2 hexes don't work Ill try something from them next as they are pretty reasonably priced. : )
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:47 PM   #8575
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I can't bring myself to eat the shipping on a second rear upright, so I'm going to wait until another local does a Corally order, or wait 'till I need more parts.

But, in the meantime, I'm thinking about only running the new arms in the front, since that's the only place I ever really break them, and even then it's rare these days. I know Sushi Boy made a joke about this, but... is there any reason to think that using the new arms up front (with the same shock position as the old arms) and the old arms in the rear would be a terrible idea? I don't run sway bars or anything, so that part of it isn't a big deal to me.
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:55 PM   #8576
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I did? Naaaaaaaahhhhh not me . I actually don't remember though. It should be fine, but the 80% arms I have are rediculously stiff, and that would probably take some mechanical grip out of the front end if you only used them on the front.

-Korey
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:57 PM   #8577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
I did? Naaaaaaaahhhhh not me . I actually don't remember though. It should be fine, but the 80% arms I have are rediculously stiff, and that would probably take some mechanical grip out of the front end if you only used them on the front.

-Korey
Well, I'd probably end up with the old 75% arms in the rear, and the new 35 arms in the front. Not forever, just as a compromise until I buy the other upright. :-D I'm not worried so much about differences in hardness as geometry changes. As I understand it, they're the same in that regard.
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:59 PM   #8578
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Yup, if you use the inner hole on the new arms, it is the same as the outer hole on the new arms, so geometry will remain the same.

-Korey
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Old 08-21-2006, 10:00 PM   #8579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Still Bill
Jeff,

I just thought...On my outdoor car, I have the new arms on the front and the old arms (with extensions) on the rear. Can you make a setup sheet for that instance?
Ah, it was Still Bill, not Sushi Boy. I got the initials right at least. Sorry!
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Old 08-21-2006, 11:03 PM   #8580
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Hahaha, I was like huhhhh? lol
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