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Old 08-20-2006, 03:57 PM   #8551
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Is the snap ring perfectly even inside the notch inside the diff half? Every notchy diff I've had always goes back to the thrust assembly. It's easy to slightly bend that ring when removing it and inserting it.

You can buy snap rings in bulk, on the cheap from X-Ray.
As far as I can tell it is. I tried it with the factory installed c-clip and did the same thing. Is there a way to tell?

Thanks.
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Old 08-20-2006, 03:58 PM   #8552
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:30 PM   #8553
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Wow Im really struggling with this diff rebuild. Tried all kinds of new and old parts and just cant get it. In order to tighten it enough to not turn the pulley then my diff is so tight is nearly a spool. Here are the steps Im taking? Any ideas?


- Using Associated black grease on the thrust bearing. Putting a layers on each side, smashing the washers on it and cleaning up the excess that gets pushed out.

- Using a bit of Associated Stealth Diff Lube on the larger balls. Put a bit of lube in a plastic bag and roll them in there a bit to cover them and then put them in the pulley.

- Sanded the diff washers with 600 grit sandpaper

- Carefully put the circ-clip in. It moved freely once set in place

- Tried both 4 and 6 of the cone washers

- Cleaned and lubed the ball bearings

- Turn frequently when screwing the halves together

Once together it is smooth until I really tighten it down. Once tight enough to not be able to rotate the pulley when holding both sides it is very difficult to get the diff to move freely.

Like I said I just built two in my carpet car last week and they went together perfectly. Not sure what is going on here.
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Old 08-20-2006, 08:34 PM   #8554
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital
Wow Im really struggling with this diff rebuild. Tried all kinds of new and old parts and just cant get it. In order to tighten it enough to not turn the pulley then my diff is so tight is nearly a spool. Here are the steps Im taking? Any ideas?


- Using Associated black grease on the thrust bearing. Putting a layers on each side, smashing the washers on it and cleaning up the excess that gets pushed out.

- Using a bit of Associated Stealth Diff Lube on the larger balls. Put a bit of lube in a plastic bag and roll them in there a bit to cover them and then put them in the pulley.

- Sanded the diff washers with 600 grit sandpaper

- Carefully put the circ-clip in. It moved freely once set in place

- Tried both 4 and 6 of the cone washers

- Cleaned and lubed the ball bearings

- Turn frequently when screwing the halves together

Once together it is smooth until I really tighten it down. Once tight enough to not be able to rotate the pulley when holding both sides it is very difficult to get the diff to move freely.

Like I said I just built two in my carpet car last week and they went together perfectly. Not sure what is going on here.

Check the thrust washers....They are two different sizes. Put the smaller OD with a smaller hole in the middle closest to the diff screw head. Xrays are the same way!!

EA
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:35 PM   #8555
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Thread page 286........ new guy walks in.

Hey guys just snagged a sweet deal on a new kit. I got the std RDX kit(but with dual diffs instead of a oneway, the box had been opened but the hobby shop completed the kit)

Anyway if i could get a few questions answered with out using search that would be great!

- Diffs both front and rear have high and low options. Wich is prefured? I'm assuming both sitting lowest in bulkheads?

-Center layshaft has adjustable height is this for belt tension? Where do people leave it if belt tension is a non issue? Any clarification would be kool.

-Setup sheet for indoor carpet using RUBBER TIRES and dual diffs??? Corally site has 4 but they all run oneways( i know its the hot setup but im want to go at it with the diffs for now) PS i realize your track is not my track but some general guidelines would be kool.

Thanks in advance
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:40 PM   #8556
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The lower diff positions are what everyone on the team uses. I alway run the center layshaft all the way up. It seems to give a nice balance of tension between the front and rear belt. Annnnnd I am looking for my diff setup I had a long time ago, I'll post it here when I find it. Brian McGreevy probably has a decent one too as I know he was lazy and didnt throw a one way in for a long time .

-Korey
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Old 08-20-2006, 09:57 PM   #8557
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Thanks Korey. Feelin the love.

Ill stay tuned for a setup sheet.
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Old 08-20-2006, 11:38 PM   #8558
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The thrust washers are different? Crap, I'll have to look at some in the package, I always assumed they were the same.

The method you're using to build your diffs sounds pretty close to what I do. I use ceramic thrust bearings and balls, but I think the process is the same.

I generally get as much black grease (associated or muchmore) on the thrust washer and bearing as I can, then I set it on the table so its assembled and press the diff half down on top of it. It usually slides right in, and retains as much grease as possible. I then run the diff screw in and out a few times to push out excess grease, and clean up what I can. Then, I get the snap ring into the diff half, and I'm careful not to push it past the notch. I like to get it in there and then slowly push it into the notch with a flathead screwdriver.

From there, I use stealth lube in the diff ball holes, put the balls in, set that side on a diff half, and then grease the other side of the balls. Then, I screw it together slowly, checking to see if I can turn it by hand without too much force. Then, I spin it several times to push out excess grease and carefully clean it up to keep the dirt away.

The diffs usually come away extremely smooth, and last a month or two. I don't sand diff rings, just flip and replace now and then.

It sounds like you've got a defective part somewhere.
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Old 08-21-2006, 04:31 AM   #8559
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hi guys, what do you do with your bearings do you advise to take a shield out or do you not flush them out or what do you do??????

jordan
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Old 08-21-2006, 09:50 AM   #8560
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Originally Posted by jordys jrxs
hi guys, what do you do with your bearings do you advise to take a shield out or do you not flush them out or what do you do??????

jordan
A lot of guys have found it easier to replace them when they get gritty rather than trying to pick out carpet fibers and such. You can get them on the cheap at AvidRC ($1/each.)

5x9x3 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=32
10x15x4 = http://www.avidrc.com/?action=item&id=24
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Old 08-21-2006, 10:33 AM   #8561
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Ah, lame, I only ordered one upright. That totally sucks.
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Old 08-21-2006, 01:47 PM   #8562
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Bearings... I leave them as they are when they come from Corally. They have a thin lube in the bearings already. If you need to clean them I take the sheilds off then hit the bearing with a lighter after I sray them out and let them dry for a few min. This burns the carpet fibers out of the bearing... just need to make sure they are dry.

Then I relube with Triflow, which is generally used for chains. It always leaves a wet finish and has a lot of teflon in it. It doesnt dry all waxy like while lightning does too. I just spray it in the cvd's after I clean them every race day. I've been using this in R/C Heli's for a while now and It's my favorite lube. The amount of wear over time is significantly less when compared to associated black grease in CVD joints.

-Korey
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Old 08-21-2006, 02:38 PM   #8563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Check the thrust washers....They are two different sizes. Put the smaller OD with a smaller hole in the middle closest to the diff screw head. Xrays are the same way!!

EA
Very good point. Actually, I didn't know that either until last week when Rob and I were discussing it.

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Old 08-21-2006, 02:43 PM   #8564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital
As far as I can tell it is. I tried it with the factory installed c-clip and did the same thing. Is there a way to tell?

Thanks.
The snap rings are weird. There is a reason they are included in a diff rebuild kit so change it everytime. The rings tend to fatigue if you keep squeezing them and that causes high and low spots.

DO NOT compress the snap ring tips together. Only squeeze enough to get it into the diff halve. Otherwise that is where you run into problems.

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Old 08-21-2006, 02:43 PM   #8565
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Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Very good point. Actually, I didn't know that either until last week when Rob and I were discussing it.

Jeff
The manual doesnt show them being different. What would the effects of putting them in backwards be? I cant imagine that is what is causing my problem. My guess is about half of them out there are installed backwards.
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