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Old 07-25-2006, 10:27 PM   #8296
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Hex question. I have been running narrow hexes all around as that is how the car came when I bought it used. I broke one when I first had the car because I had never had a car with clamp hexes before and didn't realize how fragile they are. So I bought 2 new narrow hexes for like 18$ and vowed to be extra careful whenever I tightened them up. Well I broke another today (a rear hex) despite tightening slowly and just tightening it enough to keep it on the stub axle. Has anyone used any other hexes that are more durable? Are there any downsides to using a slide on version? Not a knock on Corally but I must just not have the dexterity or fine motor skills to keep my hexes in one piece. Or perhaps the wide hexes aremore durable as they have more meat on them. Thanks y'all!
I've found that they break during side impact no matter how loose or tight they are, so it might not be from tightening, though you definitely want to be very careful with them. The wide hexes are much stronger. You can run them in the front if you only space out your arms with 2 1MM washers under each coupler, and then keep the narrow hexes in the rear. I believe there's some narrow rear hub carriers that might allow for running the regular hexes in the rear as well, while still making legal width.
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Old 07-25-2006, 10:36 PM   #8297
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I am running the narrow hexes in front now to get my front as narow as possible to get enough steering at my local track. I have the narrow hexes, a single 1mm shim under each coupler up front and still and trying to get more steering. I will be trying the 6* c-hubs this weekend. But I will have to try out the wide hexes and see if I can remove the one shim under the couplers to compensate for the extra width. It seems a little odd to me that I am running a narrower front end than just about any of the set ups I see and still want more steering when it seems the pros are satisfied with what they have. Makes me wonder it its a matter of driver error . . . heres the track for those interested.
www.mikeshobbyshop.com
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Old 07-25-2006, 11:41 PM   #8298
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Andrew,

The setups that you are finding will all be from tracks that have a ton more traction than what you will find at Mikes... that is why you are finding that you have to change the front a bunch..
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Old 07-25-2006, 11:45 PM   #8299
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Well I can say I've never liked the narrower front end. I do run narrow hex's up front, but I shimmed the arms out further the maintain the same width. This makes the car smoother.... with slightly less overall traction in the front end, but it still corners very flat at the same time.

When I used the wider hexes with 2mm spacing my car was lifting in almost eveyr corner at Carpet nats. I remember Ron Atomic had the same problem, then he ran the same setup as me with no more issues.

The reason this happens is when you run wider hexes the inner pivot points of the arms are closer to the centerline of the chassis to maintain the same width... this makes the car roll more and gain more overall traction. I've always found it will dump over a lot easier and be inconsistant at times. If it doesn't dump over... it usually results in more mid-exit steering. To correct the dumping over... most will go to a stiffer spring, which will keep the front from rolling over so hard in the corners. This also creates a ton of initial grip... so thats why I had the lifting problem entering the corners at nationals.

When I went to narrow hexs in the front and a wider spacing the hinge pins were further from the centerline of the chassis. This resulted in a car that resistaned rolling more, and let you run a little bit fo a softer spring to absorb more bumps on the surface of the track, and overall it seemed much smoother and easier to drive. Not as grabby . Well.... I was really bored and thought I would tell you guys that . Hope you found that somewhat interesting.

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Old 07-26-2006, 12:40 AM   #8300
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Interesting info about the front hexes, thanks for sharing. I'll have to experiment with that.

Has anybody had trouble with the droop screws digging into the CF of the 4mm chassis? The spot for the screws is machined down, so it's bare CF and not the shiny top layer. Mine's worn down enough in the front now that I'm having a hard time setting my uptravel to 2mm without it affecting ride height. The problem goes away when I use my new 2.9 chassis. Someone suggested I super glue thin strips of brass over those spots on the chassis to keep that from happening.
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Old 07-26-2006, 01:07 AM   #8301
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I have noticed the gouging in my 2.9 chassis and was considering adding brass uner the droop screws also. Thats what I used to do in my 1/10th pan car under the tweak screws and it worked great.

Thanks for the hex info Sushi. Makes sense to me. Our local track runs an off-road track indoors next to the carpet track and the owner has chosen to not water the off-road track for several weeks to bring the humidity in the building down. This makes for some serious dust all over the carpet track. What are all y'alls opinion on the first thing to try in low traction carpet situations?

Softer tire compound
Softer springs
increase rear toe
let sauce soak longer
suggestions?
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Old 07-26-2006, 07:02 AM   #8302
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Let the sauce sit longer first, then if you need more traction at one end of the car, go to a softer spring there.
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Old 07-26-2006, 09:35 AM   #8303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
Oh cool, definitely take pictures with the iPT, I'm curious to see how they look in the RDX.

The Spektrum micro is pretty nice. I put it behind my motor, and run a "bridge" of receiver wires over the top of the motor. I'm running the GTB, so it's a little cramped for space. It doesn't look too bad I guess, but it's hard to do anything elegant with that monstrous GTB in there.
Got my iPT's yesterday, I just put in the same spot, I tried behind the servo and it ends up touching the belt, probably becuase I've mounted the servo on the other side of the mount. Here's what it looks like ...only took a pic of one of the Corally's since it pretty much looks the same on the other



Here's what it looks like in my NT18 (I know, but it's just an FYI)

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Old 07-26-2006, 10:00 AM   #8304
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Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Got my iPT's yesterday, I just put in the same spot, I tried behind the servo and it ends up touching the belt, probably becuase I've mounted the servo on the other side of the mount. Here's what it looks like ...only took a pic of one of the Corally's since it pretty much looks the same on the other
Wow, very cool. Good to see the iPT thing is coming through. I can't mount my servo on the other side of the posts with the 4mm chassis because it's not milled out enough to keep the tabs from hitting. Does it offer much of an advantage of have it that way? I'd hate to give up my awesome transponder hiding spot!
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:01 AM   #8305
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Originally Posted by syndr0me
Wow, very cool. Good to see the iPT thing is coming through. I can't mount my servo on the other side of the posts with the 4mm chassis because it's not milled out enough to keep the tabs from hitting. Does it offer much of an advantage of have it that way? I'd hate to give up my awesome transponder hiding spot!
Ahhhh...didn't think about the 4mm chassis, when I put the "carpet setup" on I guess I got to mount the other way!! ...it just made the steering link *almost* parallell versus at an angle as it was the other way ..don't know if that makes a big difference, just looked "wierd" to me
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:02 AM   #8306
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How crucial is the 3.9mm chassis vs. the 2.9 (foams on carpet) if we don't have insane traction like you've got at big events? Could I still use setups that call for the 3.9 chassis without a bunch of changes, or would it throw everything off. I know I've heard guys are winning at big races with the 2.9.
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:04 AM   #8307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
Ahhhh...didn't think about the 4mm chassis, when I put the "carpet setup" on I guess I got to mount the other way!! ...it just made the steering link *almost* parallell versus at an angle as it was the other way ..don't know if that makes a big difference, just looked "wierd" to me
I remember Jeff Brown saying a long time ago it didn't make much of a difference either way. I wasn't sure if the thinking had changed on that since then or not. It does look better straight though.
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Old 07-26-2006, 10:17 AM   #8308
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The main thing I noticed with the 4mm chassis is all the places where it is milled down is 2.5mm. So it's a touch thinner/lower in those spots than the 2.9mm chassis. So that will effectivly lower your hinge pin blocks about .5mm and lower your roll center a touch.

The only drawback of the 4mm chassis I feel is the weight. It is kinda heavy, but in high traction conditions it will allow your car to carry more corner speed with the the sacrifice of crazy grip and steering.

Tosolini ran a 3.9mm chassis and 2.4mm upper deck at carpet nats to allow the car to flex a tiny bit more than the 3.4mm upper deck we normally run. This gave him a little more overall steering and let the car handle small bumps a little bit better.

-Korey
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Old 07-26-2006, 11:49 AM   #8309
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
I remember Jeff Brown saying a long time ago it didn't make much of a difference either way. I wasn't sure if the thinking had changed on that since then or not. It does look better straight though.
You can go fast on anything from green to super high traction carpet w/ the stock chassis. I've used the standard 2.9 mm chassis on my car since I've been running it and have had no speed issues.

Not to say that the 4 mm chassis isn't fast---it certainly is. I don't have to try and prove that.
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Old 07-26-2006, 11:49 AM   #8310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me
How crucial is the 3.9mm chassis vs. the 2.9 (foams on carpet) if we don't have insane traction like you've got at big events? Could I still use setups that call for the 3.9 chassis without a bunch of changes, or would it throw everything off. I know I've heard guys are winning at big races with the 2.9.
yeah the car out of box is pretty competetif cause i know at the novak race 1 or 2 guys was running the car out of box and did something great!!! i running the car out of box (no low roll block,no 3.4mm top deck,no 4mm chassis) im running the uk version on carpet 19t foam and the car is dialed and i can race whit the top dog at my club!! but i know whit the low roll block and,lowered shock tower.4mm chassis ill be faster but i guess the cash dosent like me hehe!!

Later!!!
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