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Old 07-13-2006, 09:47 AM   #8116
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hey andrew... for the oneway, you will need the different bearing holders, plus a larger bearing, but i forget the size.
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Old 07-13-2006, 09:49 AM   #8117
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Got it. Thanks Wes.
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Old 07-13-2006, 09:51 AM   #8118
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I believe they're 12x18x4.
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Old 07-13-2006, 10:26 AM   #8119
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Thanks guys, just ordered it all. Should be tearing up the carpet with rubber in around 2 days. At major races are the rubber lap times about .1 to .5 secs off the foam times?

EDIT: Just checked last years IIC results (had to use the best lap in the B main as I couldn't find the A main results) and the rubber times in 19t and stock were about 1 sec off.
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Last edited by andrewdoherty; 07-13-2006 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 07-13-2006, 10:45 AM   #8120
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Hello Guys,

Do u guys have the problem when running spool that the front drive axels are doing BRBRBRRRRRR when taking a corner? (thats really shit) some people say use 3 c-hubs will help instead of 2(standard) and turn in steering on your transmitter...what are u guys doing?Ow every part on my car is perfect smooth,drive axels are flat,bearings are new... please help me
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Old 07-13-2006, 10:53 AM   #8121
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Check that your wheels aren't hitting your lower shock collars when your radio turns full lock and that your wheels aren't scraping the edge of your steering knuckles. It may be just close enough that when theres no load (straight) it doesn't rub, but when you place a lateral load on it (turning) the wheel flexes and rubs. Although it sounds like you're running rubber asphalt and this stuff usually only happens on foams . . .hmmmmm
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Old 07-13-2006, 11:06 AM   #8122
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Hello,

Yes i'm running asphalt rubber with spool...nothing is hitting the steering knuckles or the schock collars the BRRRRRRRR sound comes straight of the coupling of my front drive axles(inside my alu-steering knuckles)BTW thx 4 helping... some factory Corally guys sayed that they have it also so i dont have to worry about!
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Old 07-13-2006, 11:11 AM   #8123
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Anytime . . .I am Grandma sitting at my parents and there's nothing to do but surf the web. So sad . . .

Glad to hear others have the same problem . . .It's not the CVD pin working its way out of the cvd and scraping the inside of the knuckle, is it?
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Old 07-13-2006, 11:26 AM   #8124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Anytime . . .I am Grandma sitting at my parents and there's nothing to do but surf the web. So sad . . .

Glad to hear others have the same problem . . .It's not the CVD pin working its way out of the cvd and scraping the inside of the knuckle, is it?
With spool your drivetrain get it very hard! The tension of your drivetrtain is just extreme and thats way your car make such a sound because you are getting that hard tension! you have to make your car agressive and set some lower steering then you don't have that extreme tension!
Greetings Ollie
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Old 07-13-2006, 12:43 PM   #8125
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From what I understand, the noise you're hearing with the spool has something to do with the interaction between the spool and the CVD's. I saw Adrian explain it really well once. Either way, I'm pretty sure it happens on nearly all cars that use CVD's and spools.
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Old 07-13-2006, 04:29 PM   #8126
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Unhappy Corally Shocks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sushi Boy
I was actually just dealing with the whole leaky shock thing today.... the shock bladder would slip off and break the seal. I noticed there was shock oil on the cap, the plastic part at least. If that isnt dry then when it crimps down on the bladder it slips off and breaks the seal. I just cleaned it up really well and it went away. The cap/bladder assembly for the corally shock jyust has to be really clean and dry and everything will work. If you have any doubts just replace the pastic cap part and the bladder and everything goes together well again.

-Korey
Hi ,

I came to the same conclusion as Korey, What I am still looking for is to how I manage to get my shocks with almost no rebound???
I tried several times but when I screw the sock cap the piston goes down and I get more rebound than I want.
All the other attempts resulted in the blader getting out of the place (being sucke into the shock)
Does somebody know how to ajust the shocks with no rebound??

tx

Pedro
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:16 PM   #8127
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When I build my shocks, i put the blatter on the end of my exacto and push the blatter in just a extra bit to get a bit more oil out...then i screw the cap on. This has given me the "deadest" shock, maybe a mm or two of rebound, thats it...hope this helps

DH
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:18 PM   #8128
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Make sure when you screw the cap on not to turn the eyelet, just turn the metal cap, that will make sure the blatter doesn't move and there is a secure seal.
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Old 07-13-2006, 06:33 PM   #8129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcy
Hi ,

I came to the same conclusion as Korey, What I am still looking for is to how I manage to get my shocks with almost no rebound???
I tried several times but when I screw the sock cap the piston goes down and I get more rebound than I want.
All the other attempts resulted in the blader getting out of the place (being sucke into the shock)
Does somebody know how to ajust the shocks with no rebound??

tx

Pedro
To get a dead shock I simply build it like normal, and once it is together if there is rebound I loosen the cap just enough to let a tiny amount of oil out and I push the shock shaft up to release any extra oil/pressure. Tighten the cap down and check for rebound and repeat the process until it is dead. My shocks always turn out pretty good and dead this way with no leaks.
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Old 07-13-2006, 09:11 PM   #8130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamPink91
To get a dead shock I simply build it like normal, and once it is together if there is rebound I loosen the cap just enough to let a tiny amount of oil out and I push the shock shaft up to release any extra oil/pressure. Tighten the cap down and check for rebound and repeat the process until it is dead. My shocks always turn out pretty good and dead this way with no leaks.
Ditto.

Jeff
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