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Old 07-12-2006, 06:03 AM   #8086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Latest update: To avoid the sticker melting from the shoe goo like orbital warned, I've had two ideas. The first and best if it works would be to wrap the battery in clear shrink wrap so the goo doesn't melt the sticker and loose it's grip. The second idea is to cut just the back of the sticker off. Anyhow here's a pic of the latest development. I don't like how "homemade the bars are. Once they are sanded however the look like billit aluminum. So in the "production" version I will be molding them over size and then using my dad's Mark 5 to sand them to dimension on all sides. I will mold them large enough to sand away all the dimples and air pockets you see in the pictures. Keep you fingers crossed
3 observations:
- (1) Do you ever sleep?
- (2) I like the shrink wrap idea, that way if you ever need to either sell the battery, or don't need the weights anymore (i.e. for offroad cars)
- (3) Thank goodness for summers off
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Old 07-12-2006, 06:17 AM   #8087
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1. lately its been from 10 am to around 5 pm. I do my best thinking around 3 am. Its really bad when I do this during the school year.

2. I know shoe goo doesn't melt cell shrink wrap and I imagine it won't melt this either.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXDA13&P=M

An Orion Li-Po is just under 25 mm thick, 45 mm across, and 139 mm long. We should be able to get 4 batteries wrapped with one package as it contains two tubes each 6 inches long(152 mm). As I calculated the shrink wrap is 3 inches across (76.2 mm). So double that because there's 2 layers and you get 152.4 mm of material . To wrap around 25 mm up, 45 mm across, 25 mm down, and then 45 mm back underneath the battery we will need a total of 140 mm's to cover the lipo. So 152 mm of available material minus 140 mm of needed gives us about 12 mm total material in slack. That should result in about 3 mm of slack up, down, back and front to allow the battery to slide in and then be taken up when the wrap shrinks. I think we have a winner Mr. McGoo!

3. Praise the Lord for summers off.
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Last edited by andrewdoherty; 07-12-2006 at 06:31 AM.
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:12 AM   #8088
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hi everybody, i was just wonderin i ahve heard that the corally shocks leak quite a bit.

i was thinking about a set of tamiya shocks are they better than the corally shocks

also would i need to make any modifications to the rdx to fit the tamiya shocks on

jordan
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:24 AM   #8089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jordys jrxs
hi everybody, i was just wonderin i ahve heard that the corally shocks leak quite a bit.

i was thinking about a set of tamiya shocks are they better than the corally shocks

also would i need to make any modifications to the rdx to fit the tamiya shocks on

jordan

Jordan,

To be honest I kinda heard the same thing when I first bought my RDX, but I have not had any leaking problems with my shocks, they are easy to build and easy to maintain....

just my .02
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Old 07-12-2006, 09:57 AM   #8090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jordys jrxs
hi everybody, i was just wonderin i ahve heard that the corally shocks leak quite a bit.

i was thinking about a set of tamiya shocks are they better than the corally shocks

also would i need to make any modifications to the rdx to fit the tamiya shocks on

jordan
I know of 4 RDX's and they all have leaky shocks. Im going to be replacing mine with the HPI shocks. I have tried different bladders without luck. Build them according to some very helpful info on here just didnt seem to work for me either. I have heard good things about the Tamiya shocks, they just seem difficult to get though so I went with the HPI.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:08 AM   #8091
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Hi guys i have the RDX US kit with two diff the only problem is i want to race it with rubber tyre and i am not shore about using the 3.4mm top deck with rubber setup, what i want to know is could i use the 3.4mm top deck with the rubber setup? tkx.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:16 AM   #8092
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stormerhobbies.com is a good option too. If all else fails, you can order directly from corallyusa.com, and they'll have everything in stock. Unfortunately, you'll pay a bit more. Their pricing is a bit higher, presumably to give other hobby shops incentive to carry Corally parts.
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Old 07-12-2006, 10:34 AM   #8093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kawada
Hi All,

I got my RDX finally but dealer here real sucks that couldnt provide any support on any of the spare parts. Kindly advise some reliable online stores that i can place some options orders ..

Trillion thanks in advance
Where are you located?
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Old 07-12-2006, 05:29 PM   #8094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Here's how I build the Corally shocks.

After you drain out the old oil...

1. Pull the shock shaft all the way down. Fill the shock with desired oil till you see a little dip in the surface at the top. It should be nearly at the top, but not quite.

2. Slowly bring the piston to the top of the oil, but not through the top. Then bring it back down to get rid of air bubbles. They'll float to the top. Repeat till there are no more bubbles.

3. Push the shock shaft in about 1/3 of the way. Place the bladder on top of the oil. Pull the shaft down to create suction, which holds the bladder on. Screw cap on.

4. Shock should rebound a very small amount and slowly. If it rebounds fully and fast, you have too much oil in the shock.

Hey jordys jrxs,

Try using Brian McGreevy's shock building techniques. I found them to be
very helpfull!
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Old 07-12-2006, 05:50 PM   #8095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcy
Hi,
I saw some pics from your car and perhaps you can tell which parts I will need to buy to be able to use the Tamiya shocks.

thanks

Pedro
Depending on which roll centers you are using, you can use the Corally shockends on the bottom, if you have to "shorten" the shock length more than that allows, I used the short Tamiya shock ends that came in the TRF shock set, then I used an "assembly" like the following on the top, and on the bottom (when I have to use the Tamiya ends) ...sorry don't have part numbers, just know they are a combination of Tamiya and GS (the cone washer) parts:



It's the same setup I was running when I was running an Xray, in fact I have a better picture of the shock setup from them:

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Old 07-12-2006, 06:09 PM   #8096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarshGuy
It's the same setup I was running when I was running an Xray, in fact I have a better picture of the shock setup from them:

BOOOOOOOOOOO......HISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS SSS

Get that POS outa this thread! TRAITOR!

You're on my list now buddy boy!

LMAO!
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Old 07-12-2006, 06:14 PM   #8097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRIS CHAVEZ
Hey jordys jrxs,

Try using Brian McGreevy's shock building techniques. I found them to be
very helpfull!
I tried that technique and it didnt work for me. 2 of the guys I know with leaky RDX shocks (well one already replaced them) are really experienced in RC (1 sponsored, 1 a hobby shop owner for a long time) so I would think they would know how to build them as well. I really think there is some design flaw with the shocks.
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Old 07-12-2006, 06:25 PM   #8098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Advil
BOOOOOOOOOOO......HISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS SSS

Get that POS outa this thread! TRAITOR!

You're on my list now buddy boy!

LMAO!
...that was dusring my "pre-corally" days ...geeze!!!

...it's OK, you're been on my list forever ...my "I'm faster than these guys and ain't nothing that they can do about it" list
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Old 07-12-2006, 06:45 PM   #8099
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Quote:
Originally Posted by or8ital
I tried that technique and it didnt work for me. 2 of the guys I know with leaky RDX shocks (well one already replaced them) are really experienced in RC (1 sponsored, 1 a hobby shop owner for a long time) so I would think they would know how to build them as well. I really think there is some design flaw with the shocks.
Are yours leaking from the top or bottom?
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Old 07-12-2006, 07:14 PM   #8100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRIS CHAVEZ
Are yours leaking from the top or bottom?
Top.
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