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Old 07-11-2006, 01:29 PM   #8071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
I think I figured this one out. I am hoping someone ehre can verify. I have been thinking I was using the McGreevy set up. HERE
But after thinking about what is limiting my steering, I realized I think I had been mounting the bottom of my front shocks incorrectly. In the picture below am I correct that the McGreevy setup is indicating that the shocks are to me mounted in hole 1? I had been mounting them in hole three which I think has been limiting how far my wheel can turn before hitting thngs. This might explain why some are able to get enough steering with their epa's turned down to 60-80. Thanks for reading.
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Andrew,

One thing I have been playing with is front spacing. Try using only 1.5 mm of front shimming instead of 2.5 and use the wide hexes in front. Not only can you use a little more steering throw, the car seems to transition much better, and is overall more nimble.

And yes, by your picture, it would be hole 3. I am running that same setup with the reduced shimming and hex change being the only difference.

Like syndr0me said, Parma tires do have a wider than jacos. My car measures out to exactly 190 mm front and rear.
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Old 07-11-2006, 04:08 PM   #8072
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I went and looked at my car and found the following. I am running the narrow hexes in front and have only one .83 mm shim between the BH and the arm. With the jaco wheels that brings my total car width to 187 mm. I have widened it to 190 but I get more response and steering with a narrower front end. What shims are you guys using to get 1.5 and 2.5 mm of spacing? Or are you just estimating and assuming the shims are 1 mm? The Corally shims I have only come in .83 and .40 mm thicknesses. Brian youre thinking sounds logical about keeping the overall car width the same but moving the arm inward and the wheel outward to allow more steering throw. I may try removing the .83 mm shim I have in there and using the wide hexes. Thanks guys.
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Old 07-11-2006, 04:21 PM   #8073
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Uhhh . . .whoops. I posted the McGreevy setup from the novak race, but I have been setting my car up using a McGreevy set up from the Midwest touring series from 4/05. So I am not running the 6 deg c hubs. I was also running a 24 lb spring in the rear. I guess I will try to xerox the novak setup and see if that changes anything with the aforementioned hex and shim changes.
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Old 07-11-2006, 04:26 PM   #8074
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i think brian is referring to the shims as 1 degree, and .5 degree... not necessarily the actual thickness of them.

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Old 07-11-2006, 04:53 PM   #8075
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Kinda.... most of the team just rounds up... so a .8mm shim is a 1mm shim, and a .4 mm shim is a .5mm shim. It just makes things easier for us when we are communicating setups at the races.
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Old 07-11-2006, 06:26 PM   #8076
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Thanks for the clarification. It's all comning together now. . .
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Old 07-11-2006, 06:52 PM   #8077
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hey jeff brown i want to know when the new bacth of arm will be ship to some hobby shop !! i went to my local hobby shop and he said it was backortder like a month ago!!! so im confused here??

Later!!
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Old 07-11-2006, 11:00 PM   #8078
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Thanks guys
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Old 07-12-2006, 12:09 AM   #8079
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Hi All,

I got my RDX finally but dealer here real sucks that couldnt provide any support on any of the spare parts. Kindly advise some reliable online stores that i can place some options orders ..

Trillion thanks in advance
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Old 07-12-2006, 12:21 AM   #8080
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The two I use are A B Charles and speedtechrc.com. I think A B Charles is just a hobby shop that carries the parts but you can call them and they will get you what you need.
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:14 AM   #8081
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Default Narrow Hex-Drives

Hi,

do you now which Hex-drives are as narrow as the narrow Corally ones but do not break that easy???(Tamiya, X-Ray???)

thanks

Pedro
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:18 AM   #8082
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Default Springs

I found that the Corally springs are not very linear, this means - I can use them well at big tracks but at smaller narrower tracks I would like to have more linear springs.

This can be the reason lots of people are using Tamiya and Asso Springs.

Does somebody what are the mods necessary to use the Tamiya springs???

My problem is mainly with the lenght and widht..

Any advice (perhaps another brand of springs - longer springs are allways more linear...) on this issue is very wellcome.

thanks in advance

Pedro
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:21 AM   #8083
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Default New Thinner RDX Chassis

There was at the worlds one new Chassis with a different Battery positioning and single direction bell crank (as Hot Bodies), it was also thinner (2mm??)

Does somebody know more about it??

Pedro
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Old 07-12-2006, 03:43 AM   #8084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drcy
Hi,

do you now which Hex-drives are as narrow as the narrow Corally ones but do not break that easy???(Tamiya, X-Ray???)

thanks

Pedro
Good question. I have broekn one Corally narrow hex and can see that another has a stress crack in it. They're expensive too!
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Old 07-12-2006, 04:45 AM   #8085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Well I am heading in the direction of orbitals suggestion. I have created one solder blob that I molded using an old FK05 chassis. I then sanded the dimensions until I got a perfect fit in my RDX battery slots. All thats left to do is sand it flatter to avoid sticking out the bottom of the chassis and then sho goo. If I made one I bet I can make six. The piece I made weighs in at around 20 grams. So six will allow me to add 120 grams to the battery side. That weight figure may go up or down and can obviously be adjusted down by thinning the insert. It may go up as the rdx battery slots don't have the narrow ends that the FK05 battery slots do. Another nice thing is how shiny this solder gets when its sanded. Looks just like aluminum. And its stiff as a brick!

Latest update: To avoid the sticker melting from the shoe goo like orbital warned, I've had two ideas. The first and best if it works would be to wrap the battery in clear shrink wrap so the goo doesn't melt the sticker and loose it's grip. The second idea is to cut just the back of the sticker off. Anyhow here's a pic of the latest development. I don't like how "homemade the bars are. Once they are sanded however the look like billit aluminum. So in the "production" version I will be molding them over size and then using my dad's Mark 5 to sand them to dimension on all sides. I will mold them large enough to sand away all the dimples and air pockets you see in the pictures. Keep you fingers crossed
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